I can do it too. xmas eve driveshaft building....

[Dave]

Was in the top of the garage today looking. Found some parts that needed to come down and i found my first drive shaft out of the 34. Of course it was too long sooooo. I grabbed it threw it in the vise and made some measurements and cut it off with a sawzall . Then i took the short part that was now a lot easier to work with and grabbed the sawzall again and carefully starting cutting thru the weld that held the yoke to the shaft. About 15 to 20 minutes later I grabbed a hammer and knocked the end out of the short shaft. Sweet. I debured the long shaft ground the end fairly flat and layed the shaft and the yoke on the floor to keep the 2 yoke aligned and started the yoke in with the hammer. Then i picked it up and tapped it straight down on the floor till the yoke was bottomed into the shaft. Then a measurement  :cry:  Too long yet I did leave some extra for final measuring.  Knock the yoke back out go thru the motions again . I need a new ujoint for the rear cause one cap was missing and u bolts or girdles for the yoke on the rearend then im gonna bolt it in and set it true with my indicator then ill weld it..
Been a good day.
Dave

ps: anyone got the number for a chevy yoke to ford 8 inch rear u joint and possibly measurements to be sure?

[enjenjo]

Two possibles on the Ujoint. What is the outside measurement on the driveshaft yoke, and the diameter of the cups?

[GPster]

I did my first one that way but a little less "High Tech". To give a straight cut-off on the edge of the driveshaft tube I used a tubing cutter  and to remove the yoke from the cut-off end I cut through the weld with a hand operated hacksaw. There seemed to be enough of the insert end of the yoke (but not 10") that I felt that it was in would go in the tube straight. My only concern was for the joints to be "in phase" and I believe I put the placed together tube and yoke pieces horizontal in a vise and used a level crossways on the bearing cup of the yokes and adjusted them in the vise unit both ends were level. Also on the low/tech end of the story I welded it with 1/8" 6013 with a "Buzz Box" at probably 110 Amps. That was before I had learned enough to know that that's not the right way to do it. GPster

[Dave]

Two possibles on the Ujoint. What is the outside measurement on the driveshaft yoke, and the diameter of the cups?

Frank near as i can tell its chevy 1 1/16 x 3 7/32 and the rearend yoke is 1 1/8 by 3 7/32..
Dave
i used to have a web site with all the dimensions but i lost the info

[enjenjo]

Precision number is 430 if you have the cup sizes right. I think it may be a Precision number 378 though, which has 1 1/16 cups all around.

[Dave]

Precision number is 430 if you have the cup sizes right. I think it may be a Precision number 378 though, which has 1 1/16 cups all around.

Its gotta be the 430 frank ive got the link ill post it here in a bit i get dana spicer
5-719
5-1201x
dt1201
s55
1201
thats what the web sight gives me.
its for sure 1 1/16 and 1 1/8 on the caps.. Remember im a tool maker?
Dave

[enjenjo]

Remember im a tool maker?

Yes I know, that's why I questioned it.  Ford came with both cap sizes, but the 1 1/6" is more common.

[Dave]

Remember im a tool maker?

Yes I know, that's why I questioned it.  Ford came with both cap sizes, but the 1 1/6" is more common.

Ya ok get off my butt. Its xmas ya know  
Love
Dave
 

[GPster]

Ya ok get off my butt. Its xmas ya know  
LoveDave:wink:  

Speak Up! you're begining to sound a little sheepish.  GPster

[C9]

I've checked 'in-phase' on the driveshaft yokes by putting the shaft horizontally in a vise.

Orient the stil-welded-on yoke horizontal.

Tap the loose yoke in so it's horizontal.

Then a couple of straight 3/4" solid rods about 12" long each get placed through the yokes horizontally at each end.

Sighting one 3/4" rod against the other is pretty accurate.