I've been reminded that I need to choose a subject

Started by GPster, November 27, 2006, 08:59:53 PM

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GPster

The early Pintos used a flexible shaft (cable ?)between the end of their steering column and their rack-and-pinion. They have a Double D outer tube on the column end and a flange like is used on "Rag Joints" on the rack end. Has anyone ever used one on a vehicle they have built?  I have been looking at double "U" joint from Flaming River and Borgeson because at first look I seem to be looking at about 45 degrees angle between the steering box and the column. That was looking at it mostly from the side, but looking from the top the column will be too close to the center of the dash so the column should be moved out a little bit so I might be looking at three univerals in about a foot. That would be well over $200.00 and probably require a steady bearing. This will be in a light car (Jeepster) with a power steering box, V6 powered with narrow 15" wheels on a straight front axel. The truck project went on down the road for $200.00 and the Jeepster is back in its garage for the first time since '99. I wish to apoligize for not commenting about the RRT changes but the way my mind is working now my opinions change hourly. GPster

WZ JUNK

Quote from: "GPster"The early Pintos used a flexible shaft (cable ?)between the end of their steering column and their rack-and-pinion. They have a Double D outer tube on the column end and a flange like is used on "Rag Joints" on the rack end. Has anyone ever used one on a vehicle they have built?  I have been looking at double "U" joint from Flaming River and Borgeson because at first look I seem to be looking at about 45 degrees angle between the steering box and the column. That was looking at it mostly from the side, but looking from the top the column will be too close to the center of the dash so the column should be moved out a little bit so I might be looking at three univerals in about a foot. That would be well over $200.00 and probably require a steady bearing. This will be in a light car (Jeepster) with a power steering box, V6 powered with narrow 15" wheels on a straight front axel. The truck project went on down the road for $200.00 and the Jeepster is back in its garage for the first time since '99. I wish to apoligize for not commenting about the RRT changes but the way my mind is working now my opinions change hourly. GPster

Joe, my good friend Larry had a 1939 Chevy sedan with the steering shaft made from one of those flex cables.  I never liked it and I told him many times.  It worked great though and as long as the power steering did not fail it probably does not have much of a load on it.  I would never use it on something myself.  I just do not like the looks of it.

If you want to save some money on the steering link, you need to go to the salvage yard and dig around some.  Frank can give you some cars to look for that might have the right joints you need.   Factory joints will bend a tighter angle than the ones that the streetrod manufactures sell.  A lot of vans use some neat steering joints.  Jeep Cherokee has a neat one that has a vibration isolator built in.  I bought a couple of 5 gallon buckets of steering shafts and joints at a salvage for $5 a set(2 joints and a shaft).  I have used most of them but I might look through them to see if I have anything for you.

John
WZ JUNK
Chopped 48 Chevy Truck
Former Crew chief #974 1953 Studebaker   
Past Bonneville record holder B/BGCC 249.9 MPH

phat46

I too have seen the flexible shaft used on a rod. It was Model A coupe, fenderless and pretty basic. The owner bought the car with the shaft on it and didn't know what it was from. I really didn't like the looks of it, even on such a light car. I'm sure a better system could be worked out for not much money, I too have gotten factory steering joints from the junk yards. One source is the old GM  X Body, one of these I still have actually is a slip joint as well as an angle joint.

Charlie Chops 1940

I had one on a Model A vic and it broke in the parking lot at the donut shop - right after an 80 mph jump down the freeway. It had the rubber boot on it and retained water - it just rusted through and failed when I turned in the driveway. I replaced it with a good one and left the boot off and sprayed it with WD-40 regularly. Sold the car 20-some years ago and haven't seen or heard of it for 20 years probably.

I wouldn't use one now given the better stuff available. And too hard to find. Used only and probably long out of the parts catalog at Ford.

Charlie
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying. "Wow...that was fun!"

Poster geezer for retirement....

A Hooligan!

enjenjo

There are some nice shafts with joints in an Astro Van too.  I may have some stuff you can used here.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

GPster

The reason that cable came to mind is that most old Pintos in a junkyard before they were stacked have already given up their steering racks. A balljoint fork and a heavy hammer was al that was necessary to free the flexcable and it's "Double D"  shaft from a steering column. The later Pintos and Mustang IIs have a nice universal that can be removed in the same way  but that only gives me one of the three I would need. When I go to the junkyard I usually don't look at anything that new('85?) or expensive but now that cold weather is near and the snakes are dormant and the wasps have quit flying I'll have to renew my search efforts. GPster

47 ragtop

I ran one in the 70's on a 34 ford. The rubber cover    caused rust problems then and I doubt you could even find one today in any condition as they were last used in 1973. I used a chevy column w/1" by 48 spline column, a 69 to 71 Gran Prix u-joint that fit the column and had a double d shaft that was factory fixed to the u-joint. This made an all factory slip fit connection with no welding and the Pinto rag joint slipping right on the Pinto rack. I used a pillow bearing support on the flex shatf near the junction of the flex cable. Man I thought this high tech at the time. I never had a problem ,but today I would use borgeson joints or chevy van joints.47 ragtop

donsrods

I remember some of the rod magazines in the '70's doing articles on these shafts, and telling us how great they were for clearance issues, etc.  All those articles soon died off, because I understand problems started happening with them.

Don

GPster

BTTT It's raining today so give me some hints to narrow my search. The steering box I have chosen is a power 605 from a '78 - newer RWD GM product. A quick check on the internet (I have trouble seeing small things) put it in the 3/4" 30teeth count input shaft size. Are there any of these factory universals suggested that go right on the steering column side of the steering box? This box is set up in a rear-steer placement and I'm going to have to start these direction changes as soon as possible. And thanks for the rust suggestion about the Pinto cable steer. GPster

rumrumm

Quote from: "Charlie Chops 1940"I had one on a Model A vic and it broke in the parking lot at the donut shop - right after an 80 mph jump down the freeway. It had the rubber boot on it and retained water - it just rusted through and failed when I turned in the driveway. I replaced it with a good one and left the boot off and sprayed it with WD-40 regularly. Sold the car 20-some years ago and haven't seen or heard of it for 20 years probably.

I wouldn't use one now given the better stuff available. And too hard to find. Used only and probably long out of the parts catalog at Ford.

Charlie

An acquaintance of mine who has a 35 Chevy coupe also had one of these break on him a few years ago. Fortunately he was just cruising in town and was not on the highway doing 70 mph. I would stay away from those things, they are bad news. And the problem with them is you don't know they are bad until they break. Zheesh!!
Lynn
'32 3W

I write novels, too. https://lsjohanson.com

enjenjo

To change from rear steer to front steer, remove the pitman arm, and reinstall it 180 degrees to the way it was. The Astrovan Ujoint will fit the box.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

GPster

Quote from: "enjenjo"To change from rear steer to front steer, remove the pitman arm, and reinstall it 180 degrees to the way it was. The Astrovan Ujoint will fit the box.
Already did the pittman arm change. Now for the next question. From what little bit of information I've picked up it almost looks like GM went to a standard 3/4" 30 on their steering boxes (that would bear out the Astro van stuff fitting). This latest check showed a lot of Jeep Cherokee joints with the "Double D" collapsing shaft in between two joints. Their steering boxes look just like the Saginaw boxes that GM uses. I wonder if they share the same spline count as GM? GPster

enjenjo

QuoteI wonder if they share the same spline count as GM

Yup
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Dave

And why do you really need a subject? At least your replying and posting..
Come on kids we need posts. ...opinions ...(easy bryan and Vance) Sumpin .. its boring here.. Am I talking to my self :?:  :?:
Dave