I am a moron, part deux

48builder · July 04, 2006, 05:37:12 PM

I already established the fact that I am a moron with my stainless firewall gaffe.

This one is so bad I almost hate to admit it. I just discovered that I really screwed up my subframe. It's a long story, but I ended up with my front wheels about 2" back from where they should be. Explains why I am having trouble getting my radiator to fit right. With the steering box moved forrd 2". I'll have no problems.

Anyway, I am now going to take it to my friend's shop and let him fix it right. I'll have to redo my motor mounts, but that's small compared to the sub job.

Here's my question. I used an '87 Grand Prix. Should I stick with the same thing, or go with S-10 maybe? I have ready access to either one. Newer S-10 may have better access for parts?

Thanks for not laughing too loud. :oops:

Walt

EMSjunkie · July 04, 2006, 05:59:00 PM

Do you have a Harbor Freight store close to you?

if so, they sell the 4" right-angle grinder wheels pretty cheap.

won't mind using 4-5 of 'em grinding welds

sorry, had ta rib ya just a little.

I have a story about fiberglassing my head to the shop floor :oops:

but I ain't about to share it here

good luck.

my 'ole Pappy used to say, "ya learn more from your mistakes than you do your successes"

Vance

Bruce Dorsi · July 04, 2006, 06:27:50 PM

Quote from: "48builder"Thanks for not laughing too loud. :oops:
Quote

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I can't answer your questions, Walt, but I certainly won't laugh!

You always said that this would be a long-term project. ----You just increased the scope of the project.

As it appears today, I will not be going to Syracuse for the show.

Give our regards to Shawn!

OldSub · July 04, 2006, 07:18:28 PM

In my experience morons don't admit or acknowledge their own mistakes and would certainly never ask if they should redo it different after making one.

phat46 · July 04, 2006, 07:37:54 PM

That doesn't qualify as a moron, yer gonna fix it, right? A real moron would drive it like that!!!

GPster · July 04, 2006, 07:43:01 PM

I'd let your friend help you decide. If he's going to straight it out he might have an idea of how much and where. The S10 is going to give you a narrower tread width so going different might fix a problem or create a new one. Everyone here can give suggestions but seeing this thing in person might be the best course of action at this point. GPster

enjenjo · July 04, 2006, 09:30:57 PM

All the replacement parts for the S10, are the same as the GP, so you won't really gain any thing by changing type.

48builder · July 04, 2006, 09:59:08 PM

I took a couple pics to show the front wheel. I believe it should be sitting a couple inches forward of where it is now. I measured my wheelbase as best as I could and got 114". I can't remember what stock was, but I shortened the body 2-3/16", so I should be that much shorter than stock, plus that fudge factor enjenjo recommends.

Am I right? does it look too far back?

Bruce Dorsi · July 04, 2006, 10:21:05 PM

This may sound stupid, Walt, but would it be easier to modify the fender openings?

Of course, this assumes that the mechanicals are positioned properly, and that the tires have adequate turning clearance.

Dirk35 · July 05, 2006, 03:16:07 PM

I would Turn the Wheels Lock-to-lock before moving that a full two inches. IT looks like 1 1/2 inchs would be more than enough to get you centered.

As far as fixing it, NOW IS THE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT! You wont want to do it after you get it running.

Also, if it helps any, on my 49 F1 PU, it used the exact same wheelbase, and my front wheels are not centered either. I think mine are about 3/4 inch too far forward.

Also, if you put 5-9 degrees more castor (you probably have it set to nuetral since just having put the suspension on), they will scoot forward a little, probably 1/4 inch, once you put the vehicle on its own weight.

On my 35, I just got it aligned, and they said I had about 2 degrees Castor and they put it to whatever the book call for a 1974 Mustang II (I think he said 8 1/2 degrees, but I couldve just imagined that number).

More food-for-thought: On my 1935 PU, I used the stock axle centerline when I put in the MII. When I got it all done and the fenders put on, It sat about 1 1/2 inches too far forward, and hit the inide of the front fenders when turning the wheels. I cut the cross-member out, moved it back 1 1/2 inches and welded it back in. It sucked, but it had to be done, and I am glad I did it. I had to add 1/4 filler peices to the inside of the cross-member where the frame gets wider as it goes towards the back of the truck. I ground real deep "V" grooves in my filler peices and got great penetration. It welded to the underside of the frame the same as that didnt change. I have had it driving for a few months and plan to rip it apart to inspect it.

Bob Paulin · July 05, 2006, 04:46:54 PM

Quote from: "48builder"I already established the fact that I am a moron with my stainless firewall gaffe.

This one is so bad I almost hate to admit it. I just discovered that I really screwed up my subframe. It's a long story, but I ended up with my front wheels about 2" back from where they should be. Explains why I am having trouble getting my radiator to fit right. With the steering box moved forrd 2". I'll have no problems.

Anyway, I am now going to take it to my friend's shop and let him fix it right. I'll have to redo my motor mounts, but that's small compared to the sub job.

Here's my question. I used an '87 Grand Prix. Should I stick with the same thing, or go with S-10 maybe? I have ready access to either one. Newer S-10 may have better access for parts?

Thanks for not laughing too loud. :oops:

Walt

S-10/15 and 108" Metric chassis front-end parts are pretty much interchangeable.

Since the truck sits higher, the S-10/15 crossmember is mounted differently, giving you a higher Roll Center (RC) than a 108" Metric.

If you are using this on a stock-height pickup or older coupe, my choice would be the S-10/15 along with the taller ball joints that raise the RC even more.

If you are chopping, channeling and using a fat-fendered or early '50s car, the 108" Metric will probably work just fine.

There is also a way to decrease the natural bumpsteer in these chassis by using a 82-up Camaro center link, and re-popping the idler arm chassis mount a bit.

Please note, I'm NOT talking about Center of Gravity (CoG). The higher cars have higher CoG. Raising the roll center shortens the moment arm between the RC and the CoG, and decreases the body roll.

B.P.