Crimp or solder?

[48builder]

I have to shorten a few of the donor car's battery cables to work in my '48. I ended up buying the terminals at Del City. I borrowed one of those monster crimpers from a buddy, and I also got some of the solder plugs that DelCity sells. Which one is better? I'm thinking solder, but I just want the one that will have no chance of coming apart. I will be putting shrink tube on it, so appearance will be the same for either.

Thanks

Walt

[blksheep]

Gee Walt, ya got both,...why not do both?
Crimp first, then solder the base,.......shrink wrap,.....Bada-Bing!

blksheep....firmly connected, But, not necessarly securely fastened....in Charlotte

[donsrods]

I know a lot of people like to solder them, but we crimp them and then shrink wrap them.

First of all, we do this on boats (It is required by the American Boat and Yacht Council, because they feel soldering makes a stiff joint that vibration can fracture)

Secondly, I think soldering damages the insulation with heat.

But I have seen articles on soldering, and I guess it can be done successfully.

JMO, Don

[Dirk35]

Factory ones appear to either be soldered, or the wire actually put into the Lead Clamp while the lead is still liquid.

I am a soldier person, But that is by no means a professional opnion to go by.

[jeffa]

Without a doubt: both.
On a large connection like a battery terminal, by the time you get enough heat into the clamp to make the solder wet both surfaces, the insulation will have been frazzled.
Make sure the wire core is clean and tinned. Tin the inside of the clamp. Insert the wire core into the clamp. Crimp it. Then use the soldering iron, and some solder, to melt the tinning in the clamp to the wire core.
Don't use too much solder when tinning the wire as when you remelt the solder after you have crimped the joint, you will find as the solder melts, the crimp will loosen.

[Mr Cool]

Without a doubt: both.

Not nessecarily, no.

Make sure the wire core is clean and tinned. Tin the inside of the clamp. Insert the wire core into the clamp. Crimp it. Then use the soldering iron, and some solder, to melt the tinning in the clamp to the wire core.

Wont work, the solder required is more than you can get into the crimp to do it successfully without making it impossible to get the wire in there.

Don't use too much solder when tinning the wire as when you remelt the solder after you have crimped the joint, you will find as the solder melts, the crimp will loosen.

It shouldnt, if you use the correct crimping tools they will never become loose or come apart. If you are worried about corrosion (for example in a marine environment), then use a conductive grease in the joint before you crimp it. In harsh environments you should also be using pre-tinned wire too.
Ive done many thousands of crimps over the years, and NEVER had one fail.

[Mr Cool]

If you want some good reasons not to solder here we go.
The flux in solder can and will promote corrosion.
Soldered joints WILL fracture under vibration conditions.
Aircraft use crimped joints for the same reason.
Soldering will damage insulation with the heat
soldering introduces dis-similar metals and losses in the joints
Dis-similar metals also promote electrolysis leading to further corrosion

need I continue?

[Mr Cool]

Factory ones appear to either be soldered, or the wire actually put into the Lead Clamp while the lead is still liquid.

Usually cast into the liquid lead, no flux meaning minimal corrosion.

[donsrods]

I really have to agree with Mr Cool (how could you NOT agree with a guy named Mr Cool)      


As I said earlier, at work we HAVE to crimp only, because it is against American Boat and Yacht Council regulations to do otherwise. I figure if these guys are so set against soldering, there is a reason for that.

He is also right about the correct tools. Hardware store crimpers don't work.
You need to spend a few bucks to get the correct tools to do the job properly, especially the large battery cables. Ours at work looks like a large set of bolt cutters, and cost $ 400.00. but I have the simple type you strike with a hammer ( about $ 30.00) and my Son ( who does Marine electronics installs) has one that cost about $ 100.00. As for the 10 to 18 gauge stuff, you can get a good set of strippers/ crimpers for about $ 30 to $ 50 that work well and will last for years.

I know you see the guys on American Chopper soldering wires, and some shops still do that, but a crimp is easier and less damaging to the wire, for the reasons Mr Cool outlined.

JMO,   Don