rear end yoke

enjenjo · January 26, 2006, 03:29:23 PM

QuoteIf I wasn't a dumbass I would post a pic of the finisded conversion. Perhaps Enjenjo would do that for me.

Send me the pictures, and I'll put them up.

butch27 · January 26, 2006, 05:16:04 PM

Just found out that PTO yokes are rated by RPM. BE CAREFUL

GPster · January 26, 2006, 08:02:35 PM

Another idea would be to take that driveshaft coupling and weld a flange to it. Make the flange to accept one of those old style Chrysler driveshaft sliders (sorry, I don't know the proper name) that bolted on the back of the emergency brake drum on the transmission tailshaft. GPster

enjenjo · January 27, 2006, 06:35:29 PM

Here are Rochie's pictures.

GPster · January 28, 2006, 10:23:13 AM

Quote from: "GPster"Another idea would be to take that driveshaft coupling and weld a flange to it. Make the flange to accept one of those old style Chrysler driveshaft sliders (sorry, I don't know the proper name) that bolted on the back of the emergency brake drum on the transmission tailshaft. GPster

Second "Dumb Idea" The rear end of '65 to '68 Corvairs has little axel stubs out of the rear end carrier that are half of a universal joint. They stay in the housing with a long bolt that goes into the differential. These things probably have enough axel stub to fit inside the driveshaft coupler. When we were playing around with "mud buggies" my buddy said that the univerals appeared to be the same size as Corvette half shafts (another choice?). Just playing with ideas in the "Erecter Set" of my mind. GPster

Rochie · January 28, 2006, 10:41:59 AM

Hey Frank,
thanks for putting the pictures up. One of these days I'm going to take a HRLC tutoriual on posting pictures.
Wayne

butch27 · January 28, 2006, 01:22:22 PM

Hey: We'll try anything. I didn't get a coupler with my rear end . Anybody have one for sale?

butch27 · January 29, 2006, 11:57:13 PM

Hey: I'm a junior Knight already! You sure make rank quickly around here. On that other site I'm still a minion or a peon or something like that.(maybe moron).

JOECOOL · January 31, 2006, 03:26:13 PM

I just did one,the deal is mine was a 10 spline. Speedway has a 10 spline yoke with u-joint flange that I used (about $60 ) and I made the rest .I'll see if I can get pic's to work. Why were some 10 spline and others 6?

GPster · January 31, 2006, 03:33:12 PM

Quote from: "JOECOOL"Why were some 10 spline and others 6?

Good question. First guess would be the difference between "A"s and '32 to '48. Altough it might possibly be cars that had the 60 Hp. motor. Gpster

JOECOOL · January 31, 2006, 03:49:00 PM

Hope this works

I used the stock end off the torque tube. It jsut so happend we cut the machined axle ends off a 12 chebbey to narrow it . The machined area just slipped inside the torque tube. Tack welded lightly not to warp It.The seal # was just cross referenced by size ,the set screw just titie enough so It doesn't want to be a slip yoke.

Rochie · January 31, 2006, 03:53:21 PM

Joe,
that's basically what I did with mine. But your's is shorter and looks more like factory.
Wayne

JOECOOL · January 31, 2006, 04:10:06 PM

This is the 12 bolt end I used. I ended up enlarging the holes on the torque tube slightly so the seal would center ok. I haven't driven the car yet but I don't think I should have a problem..
By the way remember to vent the rear end housing somehwere,I guarentee it will push out a lot of oil if it can't vent. Best of luck.

butch27 · January 31, 2006, 04:48:13 PM

For a vent: Drill and tap one of the housing bolts and put in the smallest vent you can find at the hardware store. That's what those high price guys sell. It may even be from a model airplane or something. I'll find out.

butch27 · January 31, 2006, 04:55:43 PM

Frank possted some Tractor Supply coupler (reducer or increaser?) numbers but they were only for a 6 spline and I don't think Speedway sells that part as a 6 spline because the 10 spline is used in the quick-changes. Very nice work.