Question RE: Updating The Wife's 55

BFS57 · January 18, 2006, 09:19:00 AM

Hello;
You caught me! I had a "senior" moment when I was trying to describe my thoughts! It's also what I get for trying to post during work when I have major interruptions of concentration!
I stand corrected!!
As far as the hole goes on the pedal, I would not just drill the thing. I would mount the booster, Install the push rod and see where it aligns, then get out your trusty drill. I used an air drill as it was of a better size to get in that tight space. Also, wear long sleeves and gloves as (when I did mine) hot flakes of metal go everywhere (safety glasses too!!).
I'm about in the same position on the power steering. I have an original set up I could put in! But by the time you do the cost of the ram and the valve (upgrade to corvette), I'm paying the same or more than a tricked out rack or new power box! The only time saving thing is that you use the stock steering and don't make any modifications to it! This system (as it was explained to me) is an assist system which gives you power steering at low speed and gradually reduces at highway speed.
I paid an ungodly amount of money to have the front end all rebuilt and aligned (over $700) but it really helps with steering to have everything pointing in the proper direction. Next time, I plan on taking my car to the local Chevy dealer as they can perform this task at a better price!
Bruce

Rochie · January 18, 2006, 11:59:38 AM

Quote from: "40"Thanks Bruce...I am well aware of the delicate adjustment of "the rod"....I adjusted it a "little snug" once and locked everything up going down the road....had no idea at the time what the problem was and had the car brought home on a rollback A very expensive lesson I won't soon forget!! I've been told the new hole in the pedal needs to be exactly 1" below the factory hole. The brakes are pretty easy to do but this steering thing has me a bit confused....the bright side is that I'm still aware that I'm confused....I fear one day I'll be so confused that I won't know I'm confused!!!

Daryle, I have an old article from the mid 80's on the 605 conversion which is what I followed. There are instructions (step by step by the way) on where to cut the sector shaft housing on the 55 box and how to shorten the column. NO welding involved!!! Other than the bracket to support the box where it goes over the top of the frame rail.
I'll scan it and send it your way in a couple of days. It'll take all the worry out of the conversion. OK There are certainly newer ways of doing it but at $1100 for R&P, personally, I'd be looking at all the other methods of getting some power to the steering wheel. I can spend the rest of the money on something I really HAVE to buy.
Wayne

40 · January 18, 2006, 12:22:28 PM

Thanks Guys! With the clearance problems I am hearing about,as well as the cost....I have all but eliminated the R/P idea.The bearing deal sounds worth trying and I assume it wouldn't hurt even if I proceed with the 605 conversion though I am leaning toward the 670 box due to it being 1-piece and all but eliminating the leak problems of the old 605 box.Wayne.....I understand it is exactly the same size as the old 605 so the article you have should still be relevant.

40 · January 18, 2006, 12:26:03 PM

"A METERING valve, also known as a HOLD-OFF valve, is the valve which prevents the front discs from activating until there is sufficient pressure in the rear brake circuit to overcome the brake shoe return springs, allowing the rear brakes to activate. .....These are usually preset, and not readily adjustable. "

Bruce...In your opinion...would it be beneficial to add this valve to my brake system?By the way,Thanks for your contributions to this board...I always learn something from each of your posts!

BFS57 · January 18, 2006, 02:37:51 PM

Hello;
In the case of the tri-5, the master and booster are mounted on the firewall well above the wheels. The metering valve is designed to be used where the master and booster are mounted at frame level or below the wheel line. There are two different valves (i forget the exact pressure pr pound) but there is one for the front and one for the rear. In the case of my 32 Ford Victoria, It has metering valves as well as a proportioning valve (to the rear drum brakes) in the system. At one point, I knew the exact reason to use these but it excapes me now! (another senior moment)
All you need for your Chevy is the set up from Speedway and an adjustable proportioning valve and you are good to go. To do all of this, you may want to invest in a brake bleeding gadget as it's easier than doing the pump the pedal & hold routine (it gives my 12 year old daughter something to brag about fixing her daddy's car with daddy).
Maybe you have a son or daughter that might be able to help!
From what I can see in this car thing, you get what you pay for! I have tried to do things economical but it always comes back to haunt me. Steering is just such a thing. I know I gotta do it but just what way I want to go and how I plan to do it makes me crazy. If you look at the stock steering box, it doesn't look too hard to take off until you find out that the input shaft coming from your steering wheel is permanently affixed to this box! So when you take off the steering wheel you have this shaft some 30+" to "slide" out of the car, You figure! looks easy, but NOT!!
I know I don't have too many answers for some of the questions I got regarding this power steering upgrade thing! Everything I see doesn't make me feel any easier about this job!
Bruce

Rochie · January 18, 2006, 02:54:33 PM

BFS57,
You are correct external Residual valves are not required when the master is above the caliper/cylilnder height. There is a residual valve built into the rear drum outlet of the master.
You do NOT have metering valves you have pressure residual valves. The front with discs is 2# and the rear with drums is 10#. They hold pressure against the cup on the inside of the piston/pistons for 3 reasons. #1 to hold pressure in the cylinders and calipers to reduce the amount of pedal travel when you apply the brakes, #2 to prevent air from entering the system and #3 to prevent brake fluid from siphoning back to the master cylinder.

reborn55 · January 18, 2006, 11:00:40 PM

I have run the ball bearing type idler arm setup in my 55 for about 9 years now. It is easier than standard steering but can still be a trip to parallel park. Bought Manual disc brake conversion kit for the 55 and it stops just fine. Granted pedal pressure is not like that of the power brake setup it does stop much better especially in a panic stop.

My Nomad had the 605 conversion--was installed in 99, never any leaks or funky steering. Have block hugger hedders with no clearance problems. It has power brake kit also--very similar to A body GM cars of late 60's and early 70's. Both brake setups use the proportioning valve mounted to a bracket by the master cylinder.

Either set up marks a noticeable improvement over teh stock setup.

Bruce Dorsi · January 19, 2006, 01:54:21 AM

Quote from: "40""A METERING valve, also known as a HOLD-OFF valve, is the valve which prevents the front discs from activating until there is sufficient pressure in the rear brake circuit to overcome the brake shoe return springs, allowing the rear brakes to activate. .....These are usually preset, and not readily adjustable. "

Bruce...In your opinion...would it be beneficial to add this valve to my brake system?

Daryle: If the car nose-dives a lot under braking, the metering valve MAY help.

Also, under light pedal pressure or slow-speed stops, the front brakes will be doing most of the braking, without a metering valve. ....This is because the calipers will begin to activate at a lower hydraulic pressure than the rear drum brakes.
....If the front pads wear out quickly, a metering valve may increase pad life.

If you have a combination valve installed, the metering function may already be in the combo valve if it is for a disc/drum system.

p.s. - Thanks for the kind words!