Sealing battery cables

Started by phat46, March 20, 2004, 10:55:10 AM

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phat46

I'm running a batrtery cable to the rear of my project truck today. I thought I would see if anyone has any tricks to seal the ends where they go into the terminals. I've had problems in the past with corrosion getting down the cable and thought maybe there's a good way to seal the ends.

enjenjo

I use shrink tubing. The stuff i use is made by AMP. Never tried it, but the liquid electrical tape should work too.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Bib_Overalls

Quote from: "Crosley"As enjenjo says , I use shrink tubing.  The thicker , stronger type rather than the vinyl looking stuff.

I usually double of the stuff too

I am using #1 welding cable.  At the welding supply store I bought a neat crimping tool for $10.  You put the terminals on the end of the cable, set  the terminal in the tool and hit it with a hanner.  Makes an even three dent cripmp.  Then I heat the terminal with a propane torch and run in some acid core solder.  I finish up with some heat shring tubing.  Looks factory.  I have only used this technique with copper terminals but it should work with the lead battery terminals (less solder) as well.
An Old California Rodder
Hiding Out In The Ozarks

Leon

Quote from: "Bib_Overalls"

Then I heat the terminal with a propane torch and run in some acid core solder.  
I wouldn't use acid core on anything electrical.  The acid can stay in the joint and continue to eat the metal.  Use Rosin core on electrical work.   There is a heat shrink tubing that has a softer "goo" in it that melts into the joint making it completely waterproof.  I used to use this stuff sealing cable TV joints for direct burial, and I've seen it offered at wiring supply houses.  a few bucks more but the stuff is the best.

Bib_Overalls

Quote from: "Leon"
Quote from: "Bib_Overalls"

Then I heat the terminal with a propane torch and run in some acid core solder.  
I wouldn't use acid core on anything electrical.  The acid can stay in the joint and continue to eat the metal.  Use Rosin core on electrical work.   There is a heat shrink tubing that has a softer "goo" in it that melts into the joint making it completely waterproof.  I used to use this stuff sealing cable TV joints for direct burial, and I've seen it offered at wiring supply houses.  a few bucks more but the stuff is the best.

I said acid core but I have been using rosin core electrical solder.  I'm old and I guess that brain cell was killed off in my hard drinking youth.
An Old California Rodder
Hiding Out In The Ozarks

Darkman

Clean metal + flux (non acid) + good mechanical joint + good solder + proper soldering technique = good electrical joint.

I flux prior to the mechanical joint so that I have flux everywhere. I do not rely on the flux in the solder. Use a separate quality flux. Heat the connector but make sure the wire is what is melting the solder. That will insure good solder flow. Let it fill the pocket of the connector leaving no voids. Use a closed end connector that will stop fumes and acid from entering the finished joint.

As Enjenjo said use Amp brand shrink. It has a inner liner that acts as a sealant and glue. Do this and you will have a air tight seal.
Charles in Pensacola

Restomodding at the speed of a slow sick snail.

Current project 1957 F100 312 4 bbl with automatic and McCulloch supercharger Mus II IFS and lowered rear