Well .............looks like im building another car.

[Dave]

Did I get your attention.  
I havent done anything like this in years so here goes.
Ive got 2 revell 32 coupe kits that you can build fenderless I like that ..............and with fenders. :?  Real hot rods dont have fenders.
The reason I bought 2 was cause they are really neat kits but dont come chopped so ive got an extra to play with. I saw carps post on models and im looking for advice for any modelers we have on the board here. Whats the best way to cut the plastic for a chop and are there any tools I should buy to make the job easier. I havent found a good model or hobby shop in jackson so I may just buy what I need off the net. Heck I havent even found testors glue around here yet :? . I plan on making it as close to my car as possible and I also would like to paint it the same  :?:  Can you do base clear on a model with the proper primer :?: . I guess the only thing that would be different is these kits have ford engines . Also can I or could I just buy a sheet of plastic and somehow form it to fill the gaps from the chop in the roof.
Im bored as hell already since hunting is over but this is sumpin ive wanted to do for a long time  and the 32 is done so why not. do one smaller.
TIA
Dave

[bigdude]

They used to make a sandable putty for models and as far as glue--you wont find the same stuff we used to get anymore because of toxic issues.  

[EMSjunkie]

Real hot rods dont have fenders.

Dave

Dave, Dave, Dave.........obviously you been out in the cold air
too long, musta froze the part of your brain with the good sense.  


of course REAL hotrods have fenders, at least the one in
my garage does.    

good luck on the model.
post a pix or two when you can.    


Vance

[enjenjo]

Well, I always cut the bodies up with an Exacto saw, and knives. I have a kit with a bunch of different knife blades, and a saw  http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/PROD/X-ACTO-knife-tool-sets/BDJ04

For filler, I use surfacing putty, same as you use on big cars. you can also use supper glue mixed with micro balls for filler.

Testors is old school, now days super glue among others is used. This is my favorite  http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/pls/pls00002.htm

For the paint, you can use automotive paint, as long as you seal it, but your car color is available in model paint  http://www.megahobby.com/cgi-bin/shopper.exe?preadd=action&key=TES52000&reference=/cgi-bin/shopper.exe%3Fsearch%3Daction%26keywords%3DBoyd%26searchstart%3D0%26template%3DTemplates\NewSearchResult.html

Do some looking around

If you would rather have a Chevy engine, there are some resin kits out there.  http://www.rocketfin.com/model_car_links.html

Plus genuine billet wheels and other accessories

That ought to keep you busy for a while.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

ahhhh, I remember the smell of the old plastic glue for the models

[EMSjunkie]

ahhhh, I remember the smell of the old plastic glue for the models

That explains everything  


Vance

[alchevy]

Well.....at least you can find a model the same year as your car. Try finding one for a '40 Chevy. I have seen '39 and '41, but nothing in '40, except Ford. I bought one of those metal models the other day of a chopped '37 2 door sedan that's (I cheated) already painted red with flames. I have to do that shopping for glue thing also because it's been years since I've built one of these also.

I have always told myself to buy the model first and then the car. But I don't know if a full-sized '37 sedan is in my future or not. I did buy a small diecast HHR first and then the real thing. It's blue, so now I need to paint it to match mine.

I guess if I was Foose, I could have Hotwheels make several thousand '40 Chevrolets.
AL

[Dave]

Dave, Dave, Dave.........obviously you been out in the cold air
too long, musta froze the part of your brain with the good sense.  


of course REAL hotrods have fenders, at least the one in
my garage does.    

Ya ya ... Did you also know that real race cars dont have fenders  :?:  Im thinking thats an easy one for you.. Yup ill post pics as soon as I get something going.. I just got out of the doctors office tonite. My back is junk i have a bad disk and i just finished the exercises the doctor told me to do. I dont like the word surgery so im doing the dam exercises. I havent been able to lie down sit down or stand again for 2 weeks and be comfortable. At least ive got some answers and im going to do my best to make it better then i can sit for a while and play.
Dave

[bigdude]

Take care of that back ,been there had surgery.Now I got post lamendectomy syndrome,which meens I'm still screwed up. Ive got 2 bad disks in my neck and three in my back. The exercises work as long as you follow them up with a couple of cold ones-good luck

[Dave]

Take care of that back ,been there had surgery.Now I got post lamendectomy syndrome,which meens I'm still screwed up. Ive got 2 bad disks in my neck and three in my back. The exercises work as long as you follow them up with a couple of cold ones-good luck

Got ya covered on the cold ones............
Dave

[EMSjunkie]

Sorry to hear about the back Dave.  

Listen to the Doc, the exercises are better than surgery.

I don't know anybody whos had back surgery that it
actually helped.

hauled alot of folks that it didn't help.  :x

have a few co-workers with blown-out backs from improper lifting.

did ya get any good drugs?  

Hydrocodone APAP or Vicodin go down REAL good with a brewsky.  


sweet dreams

Vance

[richard 36dodge]

My REAL Hot Rod has fenders !
Try to find a 36 Dodge model , or any thing for a 36 Dodge.
If it ain't a Ford or Chevy Forget about it !
Thanks
Rick Harris,

[Carps]

Ya'all know sometimes i take a while to respond but sooner or later i will, looks like this one is a little later than later, but here goes anyhow.

Whats the best way to cut the plastic for a chop and are there any tools I should buy to make the job easier.

Hobby knife or razor saw works for me.  Mark the top the same as you would a real car using scale masking tape and cut between the lines.  The razor saw will be easier for a top chop compared to the knife.

I havent found a good model or hobby shop in jackson so I may just buy what I need off the net.

There's plenty of good and reliable model car parts and tool suppliers on the net.

Heck I havent even found testors glue around here yet :? .

That's the last thing I'd use for stickin a model together.  There's plenty of new high tech adhesives available for glueing or weldong plastic together and a few good compatible super glue based products.  Check the model suppliers for details.

I plan on making it as close to my car as possible and I also would like to paint it the same  :?:

That's a tough call, but very rewarding if you can get it right.  I've been working on Dillard's coupe for a while now, but it's coming along with all the right parts, bashed from other kits or from the aftermarket.

I started with a stock '30  coupe, chopped the top and bobbed the fenders



Gota TCI chassis from the aftermarket complete with correct front and rear suspension and axles.



However I ditched the whitemetal axle in favour of one from the RM Deuce kit, as it's narrower and the finned Buick brake drums fit better with the wheels tucked neatly under the fenders.



The engine came from RM 37 Ford coupe as it has the correct trans and with a few Corvette bits and some kit bashing it looks pretty close.  The air cleaner was tough but with some work the one from a RM 427 engine pack works OK.

Can you do base clear on a model with the proper primer :?:

Yup, make sure the primer you use is for styrene and not automotive metal.  Also make sure it covers all the plastic as regular automotive paints are too strong and will react with the plastic.

. I guess the only thing that would be different is these kits have ford engines .

That's easy to fix.  All you need is a RM parts pack SBC or another kit with the correct engine if you have something else other than a SBC.  If you haven't got it covered yet, lemme know what engine you need and I'll let you know what kit it can be found in.  Or if you are not in a hurry I may have one I can send you.

Also can I or could I just buy a sheet of plastic and somehow form it to fill the gaps from the chop in the roof.

There's a number of ways to fill the gaps.  However the RM Deuce coupe kit will take a scale 3" chop and not require too much work to blend it all back together.  One of the tricks I've used is a small soldering iron to weld the bits back together, using some platruct rod as weldong wire to fill the gaps.  But be carefull as too much heat or too heavy a hand will mess it up forever.

Im bored as hell already since hunting is over but this is sumpin ive wanted to do for a long time  and the 32 is done so why not. do one smaller.

Building models is a good way to kill boredom, but be warned it's contageous and once you're hooked it'll be as bad as the 1/1 scale cars only you'll end up with more coz they don't cost an arm and a leg.

[Carps]

They used to make a sandable putty for models and as far as glue--you wont find the same stuff we used to get anymore because of toxic issues.  

There's a number of brands available but beware of using automotive stuff for the same reasons you need to be careful with automotive paints.

Tamya make a really nice smooth putty that's great for filling seams and imperfections, sands easy and finishes well.

[Carps]

for filler, I use surfacing putty, same as you use on big cars.

Yup, we call it stop putty or spot putty.

you can also use supper glue mixed with micro balls for filler.

Testors is old school, now days super glue among others is used. This is my favorite  http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/pls/pls00002.htm

Just be careful with the superglues as some are too strong for styrene and will leave a white ring around the parts.  For glueing other materials like aluminium, brass etc to styrene, then the superglues are the only way to go.

Do some looking around

If you would rather have a Chevy engine, there are some resin kits out there.  http://www.rocketfin.com/model_car_links.html

Neil at Scale Dreams  http://www.scaledreams.com/ has a great range of parts and accessories with about the best service in the business.  usually less than a week from ordering to arrival in the mailboc here in Oz.

Plus genuine billet wheels and other accessories

That ought to keep you busy for a while.

Here's a couple more to drive you nuts....

http://www.perrysresin.com/

http://www.perrysresin.com/