Rear leaf springs

Started by richard 36dodge, December 31, 2005, 07:58:57 AM

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richard 36dodge

Anybody got any suggestions about rear leaf springs for my 36 Dodge Coupe ?  I have looked at all the ads in the mags, all the ones I saw are for Fords and Chevys. I have not seen any for any mopars.  
I am still running the stock ones now , but after 70 years they are very  rough riding. I have a pair or 5 leaf Dodge Caravan springs now, and they are about the right lenght.  The thing I like about them is they unbolted from the caravan. They should weld in about the same place as the stock ones. Sense they were from a front wheel drive will they work ok with out some kind of a traction bar ?
Thanks for your comments !
Rick Harris

enjenjo

They will work fine. Braking forces are as high as acceleration forces, just not as violent, usually. :lol:  My parts books list the same part number  for front wheel drive, and all wheel drive springs on a Caravan.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

richard 36dodge

Quote from: "enjenjo"They will work fine. Braking forces are as high as acceleration forces, just not as violent, usually. :lol:  My parts books list the same part number  for front wheel drive, and all wheel drive springs on a Caravan.
Thanks !!!
Does your parts book have axle weight for a Caravan ?
My Dodge weights total of 3180 #, front axle of 1660 # and 1520 # rear.
I got the 5 leaf spring ones. The 5th leaf look like an overload leaf because it is real short and thicker than the other leafs. I am not sure if I will need the short leaf as it may make the ride rough and that is what I am trying to fix.
When I was at the boneyard I just got the springs with the most leafs.
Thanks again for the INFO.
Rick Harris.

reborn55

If you want to buy aftermarket, you might want to try Eaton Springs.  I have a set of 3 inch drop leafs on my 48 Dodge using the original hardware.

WZ JUNK

I have used the Caravan springs on older Chevy pickups.  They work fine.  There are two lengths of springs.  The shorter wheelbase vans use a shorter spring.

Muscle car era Mopars had the same type of bolt on spring hangers.  I have used them in the past.  I actually used these on a 36 Dodge that I owned about 25 years ago but I do not remember much about it other the hangers were bolt on.
WZ JUNK
Chopped 48 Chevy Truck
Former Crew chief #974 1953 Studebaker   
Past Bonneville record holder B/BGCC 249.9 MPH

richard 36dodge

Quote from: "WZ JUNK"I have used the Caravan springs on older Chevy pickups.  They work fine.  There are two lengths of springs.  The shorter wheelbase vans use a shorter spring.

Muscle car era Mopars had the same type of bolt on spring hangers.  I have used them in the past.  I actually used these on a 36 Dodge that I owned about 25 years ago but I do not remember much about it other the hangers were bolt on.
You bolted the Caravan springs to the frame ?  I like that idea. What kind of bolts ? Were they big (3/8") sheetmetal screws or were they bolt and nuts.  
My frame is boxed in the rear.
What did you do about shock upper mounts.  I was thinking about welding  a 2" angle and put standard shock mounts.
I know you said it was a long time ago and thanks for all the info you can remember.
Rick Harris.

WZ JUNK

You bolted the Caravan springs to the frame ?  I like that idea. What kind of bolts ? Were they big (3/8") sheetmetal screws or were they bolt and nuts.  
My frame is boxed in the rear.
What did you do about shock upper mounts.  I was thinking about welding  a 2" angle and put standard shock mounts.
I know you said it was a long time ago and thanks for all the info you can remember.
Rick Harris.[/quote]

I would definitely bolt the parts together using a good grade of bolt and nut and not a screw.  When I fabricate upper shock mount I use tubing.  I prefer round tubing but sometimes there is only square in the stockpile behind the shop.  Some of the time when you fabricate the crossmember for the shock mounts, you will have interference problems with the up and down travel of the rear end.  Be sure you are going to have room for the travel of the rear end.  You can mount one shock in front of the rear and one behind if you choose.   New car manufactures have tried about every combination you can imagine.  I have mounted the upper part of the shock from a bracket off of the frame without a crossmember but you must keep the bracket short and make it strong.  Think about the type of shocks you will use.  Some designs must be oriented correctly or they will bind as the car moves up and down.  Just some general thoughts.  I hope I have not confused you.
WZ JUNK
Chopped 48 Chevy Truck
Former Crew chief #974 1953 Studebaker   
Past Bonneville record holder B/BGCC 249.9 MPH

phat rat

You bolted the Caravan springs to the frame ?  I like that idea. What kind of bolts ? Were they big (3/8") sheetmetal screws or were they bolt and nuts.  
My frame is boxed in the rear.
What did you do about shock upper mounts.  I was thinking about welding  a 2" angle and put standard shock mounts.
I know you said it was a long time ago and thanks for all the info you can remember.
Rick Harris.[/quote]

Don't even consider using sheetmetal screws or you'll be losing the rear-end before you go very far. Either bolt it or weld it period.
Some days it\'s not worth chewing through the restraints.

enjenjo

If the frame is boxed, you can use NutZerts http://www.imperialinc.com/items.asp?item=0758260
to screw the bolts into. The harder you pull the tighter they fit.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

richard 36dodge

Quote from: "phat rat"You bolted the Caravan springs to the frame ?  I like that idea. What kind of bolts ? Were they big (3/8") sheetmetal screws or were they bolt and nuts.  
My frame is boxed in the rear.  
What did you do about shock upper mounts.  I was thinking about welding  a 2" angle and put standard shock mounts.  
I know you said it was a long time ago and thanks for all the info you can remember.  
Rick Harris.

Don't even consider using sheetmetal screws or you'll be losing the rear-end before you go very far. Either bolt it or weld it period.[/quote]

Thanks for the info. I was asking if he bolted the springs in. I plan to use self taping screws just get the ride height right and make sure it is square and then weld it.  I am just getting all the info I can before I jump into it. I have owned the 36 Dodge for 40 years and I don't want anything to go wrong. I am the kind of guy that ask tooo many question just to get as many opinion as I can. There are a lot of smart guys in this forum and I appreciate all the help.
Thanks again, Rick Harris.

richard 36dodge

Quote from: "enjenjo"If the frame is boxed, you can use NutZerts http://www.imperialinc.com/items.asp?item=0758260
to screw the bolts into. The harder you pull the tighter they fit.

THANKS A BUNCH !!!
Rick Harris

richard 36dodge

Does anyone have any suggestion about shocks ? What shocks are you using with the rear leaf springs (parts number or what car they are from) ? I have two sets of lower plates one with a hole and another with a stud mount ( it can be front or back with the stud pointed rear or front).
Thanks Rick Harris

Ralph

Just a thought - have you considered rebuilding the stock springs? They're made for the car after all. Take them off, take them apart, shine 'em up with a sander, and round the spring ends a bit so they don't dig in to each other. New bushings and you're done. You could even put teflon sheet in between the leaves. A spring shop might have to do some of it for you.
Some folks might not like the idea of using a 70 year old spring, but you get to examine the springs pretty close for defects in the process while you're sanding, and you know they'll fit!
Ralph
Manitoba Street Rod Association
http://www.msra.mb.ca/

richard 36dodge

Quote from: "Ralph"Just a thought - have you considered rebuilding the stock springs? They're made for the car after all. Take them off, take them apart, shine 'em up with a sander, and round the spring ends a bit so they don't dig in to each other. New bushings and you're done. You could even put teflon sheet in between the leaves. A spring shop might have to do some of it for you.  
Some folks might not like the idea of using a 70 year old spring, but you get to examine the springs pretty close for defects in the process while you're sanding, and you know they'll fit!  
Ralph
Ralph , I have considered  rebuilding the spring and have found them on the internet for sale. There is one reason I don't want to rebuild is there are no rubber bushing. The front and rear have a medal sleeve that screws into the spring and over the shackle. I want a smoother ride with steel on steel I don't see that happening. The Caravan springs have a rubber bushing about 3" diameter and the stock springs have a diameter of about 1 1/2" to 2". I also hope that a wider spring will ride better.
Thanks for the suggestion
Rick Harris

GPster

Quote from: "richard 36dodge"There is one reason I don't want to rebuild is there are no rubber bushing. The front and rear have a medal sleeve that screws into the spring and over the shackle. I want a smoother ride with steel on steel I don't see that happening. The Caravan springs have a rubber bushing about 3" diameter and the stock springs have a diameter of about 1 1/2" to 2". Rick Harris
There's a lot of money spent and a lot of ideas used but just using springs that are 60 years newer won't garantee that thing is going to ride like a 20 year old car. One thing that you might find that all that rubber in the mounts will give you a lot of sway because that vehicle may have a higher CG than the van and a narrower tread width. Those old shackles aren't so bad if you keep them greased. One of the things that I have found about them is that they seem to interchange with early Jeep struff and the Jeep shackles are shorter than what Chrysler products used. Another thing is when you take the springs apart you can modify the spring bundle, re-arch the springs and even reverse arc the springs to get the eyes going the other way. You could enginner a 2" drop with all this playing around and the Jeep shackles and not need lowering blocks. Also the parts may be hard to find if you say Mopar but they're easier if you say Jeep. GPster