S-10 hood for a patch panel floor!

rooster · December 28, 2005, 10:52:31 PM

We are just getting started on replacing the floorboard in the trunk are. Dont know much
about doing this kind of work but we plan to lap weld the s10 hood right to the 49
floorpan where the metal is still in good shape. I have read about ribs being rolled into the
metal to make it stronger, we dont have any such machine to do this , Is there another
way? Could some ribs be constructed then welded to the bottom side of floor?

I have also read that useing a special primer where the metal is laped is a good idea!
Under the car we plan to use some kind of sealer to keep water out where the metal is lap
welded then under coat that area as well.
Another question is , does the entire floor have to be welded or just every few inches ?

The metal is not as thick as the orignal but we hope it works ok. Advice wanted on
building! Aftermarket not a option!
Denny

enjenjo · December 29, 2005, 10:45:46 AM

like I told you on chat, it will probab;y work ok if you run some 1x1 tubing lengthwise under the floor, and plug weld it to the floor.

Or you can make up some hat section reinforcements out of 16 ga steel, and weld them in.

rooster · December 29, 2005, 01:09:32 PM

Quote from: "enjenjo"like I told you on chat, it will probab;y work ok if you run some 1x1 tubing lengthwise under the floor, and plug weld it to the floor.

Or you can make up some hat section reinforcements out of 16 ga steel, and weld them in.

Orignaly the floor was spot welded to the floor on the two 4" wide braces that mount the gas tank. We have moved the tank so its in the center of the car, this will allow duel exhaust to pass each side of the tank. But we loose the spear tire "well". The 1x1 tubing would also make a good way to hang the exhaust. We got some more triming to do, and alot of cleaning. I think we have some pro15 left, that wouldent hurt either!
Thanks
Denny
ps, GPster: this is the picture!

GPster · December 29, 2005, 02:00:20 PM

I'm usually very cheap but with the look of how you cleaned stuff up I'd bit the bullet and go out and buy some 16 ga. metal. As deep as that trunk appears I'd suggest laying the tire flat on the floor and fasten it flat and you wouldn't need any type of beads to keep the trunk quiet. I'd then use Sumner's favorite ingrediant ( plywood) and make a removeable floor that would lay on top of the tire and extend out to the edges of the trunk. He'd have plenty of room around the tire and under the plywood to store necessary items (jack, lug wrench, etc.) and then he could pack other items on the plywood. Either that or he could decide to "Pro-Street" it and cut the rest of it out and get a fuel cell. That trunk looks better constructed that the one in my '53. I think that the only stiffener to the trunk floor was the top of the gas tank. GPster

jaybee · December 29, 2005, 05:48:24 PM

Quote from: "rooster"Orignaly the floor was spot welded to the floor on the two 4" wide braces that mount the gas tank.
Quote

Looks like if those braces are still in place you could plug weld to them and it would be exactly what you need for stiffening.

Sean · December 29, 2005, 06:31:16 PM

Most HVAC shops have a 4 foot wide powered bead roller that they run ductwork through while its still in the flat. The one we have puts the beads about 12 inches apart.

If you have any HVAC shops in your area, ask them if they have one. The piece in your picture looks like its flat enough to go through, and it would only take a few seconds for them to do it.

GPster · December 29, 2005, 06:59:42 PM

Quote from: "Sean"Most HVAC shops have a 4 foot wide powered bead roller that they run ductwork through while its still in the flat. The one we have puts the beads about 12 inches apart. If you have any HVAC shops in your area, ask them if they have one. The piece in your picture looks like its flat enough to go through, and it would only take a few seconds for them to do it.

or you could go to a junkyard and get the floor out of a pickup bed. Should be able to get a piece big enough and you could lay it on the floor and beat out the dents with a big hammer. GPster

rooster · December 30, 2005, 10:48:06 AM

Quote from: "Sean"Most HVAC shops have a 4 foot wide powered bead roller that they run ductwork through while its still in the flat. The one we have puts the beads about 12 inches apart.

If you have any HVAC shops in your area, ask them if they have one. The piece in your picture looks like its flat enough to go through, and it would only take a few seconds for them to do it.

I read a post over in the CT forum where a guy took a air chisle and welded a good size ball bearing to a old chisle then made his own beads by placing the metal on a routed out wooden 2x4, and ran the new tool up the channel, I guess heat may have helped in this invention!
GPster:
The shelf idea sounds good, would have to probly put a hinge on the top to get it in an out!

A pick-up bed may have been a better choise ,I wonder if that metal is thicker, the s10 hood skin measures .033". Dont know what guage that is!
Denny

enjenjo · December 30, 2005, 03:41:13 PM

That figures out about 21 ga.

rooster · December 30, 2005, 04:26:51 PM

Quote from: "enjenjo"That figures out about 21 ga.

How did you figure that out?

The orignal metal in the trunk is about .055"!

I have a piece of 1' x 4' .060" we plan to place at the tail end of the trunk for the fuel tank braces, to weld to! Probely cut that in half. Then weld the .033 over that.

enjenjo · December 30, 2005, 06:04:36 PM

I looked it up on Google. 21 ga is .0329" thick.

rooster · December 30, 2005, 08:12:56 PM

I did some scrounging and found some channel 3/4 x 1 1/2", .080" could this be used as floor braces for more support to the floor?

enjenjo · December 30, 2005, 09:10:38 PM

Sure, work with what you have.