Power steering questions

Started by 48builder, November 07, 2005, 12:32:47 PM

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48builder

I'm working on getting all the hoses, wires, etc fit into my engine bay. I'm using the GM pump that came with my '95 LT1, and my steering box is the GM from my'87 Grand Prix subframe. My local NAPA told me they can only make me hoses that are rubber hose from end to end, but I'd like to use tubing at the end, since I need to make some 90 degree bends at both ends. Here's my questions.

The pump has o-ring fittings. How can I tell the size. I assume they are AN so they would be 6, or 8? Or are they some other type of fitting.

Which fitting on the box is which? One is the high-pressure feed, and one is the return, I know that much.

Source for the fittings? Summit Racing maybe?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

Walt
'48 Chevy Custom sedan in progress-Z28 LT1 drivetrain, chopped, shortened, too many other body mods to list
'39 Chevy driver


enjenjo

They can be either SAE Oring, or Metric Oring. Weatherhead has adapter fittings for either to -6 JIC fittings, or 3/8" inverted flare. They are available at NAPA. They are in the Eaton Weatherhead catalog under special adapters.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

48builder

I am going to take the fittings I need along with a piece of 1/8" rod bent to the shape I need to my local Aeroquip shop. I have used them in the past. They have all of the fittings and hoses and should be able to make up what I need. That fitting size chart from Goodman's will come in handy.

Can you help me tell which is the high pressure side on the steering box?
'48 Chevy Custom sedan in progress-Z28 LT1 drivetrain, chopped, shortened, too many other body mods to list
'39 Chevy driver

Ed ke6bnl

Quote from: "48builder"I'm working on getting all the hoses, wires, etc fit into my engine bay. I'm using the GM pump that came with my '95 LT1, and my steering box is the GM from my'87 Grand Prix subframe. My local NAPA told me they can only make me hoses that are rubber hose from end to end, but I'd like to use tubing at the end, since I need to make some 90 degree bends at both ends. Here's my questions.

The pump has o-ring fittings. How can I tell the size. I assume they are AN so they would be 6, or 8? Or are they some other type of fitting.

Which fitting on the box is which? One is the high-pressure feed, and one is the return, I know that much.

Source for the fittings? Summit Racing maybe?


I had mine done at Napa what we did is look throug the book on hydraulic lines and found some that had metal ends that I needed and these where connected to the rubber line in the fixed position that I needed.  But then the next time I went there to get some hoses for my girls hydraulic clutch they wouldn't get off there but to help me at all and I finally got a  new one ordered.  good luck Ed
Any other suggestions?

Thanks

Walt
1948 F3, parts
1950 F1 SteetRod,
1949 F1 V8 flathead stocker
1948 F6 V8 SBC,
1953 Chevy 3100 AD pu future project& 85 s10 longbed for chassis
1972 Chopped El Camino daily driver
1968 Mustang Coupe
1998.5 Dodge 4x4 cummins 4door, 35"bfg,

enjenjo

The one closer to the end of the box is the return line. It is also the one to the left.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Varicam

I'm a newbie on the board and I'd like to pass on a frustrating experience I recently had after replacing the manual Mll rack on my '38 Ford with a power steering rack.  I had new hoses fabricated locally but didn't think to flush them out before installing them.   After hooking everything up, the steering worked great for awhile then all assist was lost.  The pump didn't seem to be producing pressure, so I got a new pump and installed it.  The new pump worked great for about 30 minutes than it too stopped putting out useful pressure.  I finally wised up and took the flow control valve out of the original pump and discovered rubber residue in the bore.  Pulled the new pump apart and saw the second verse of the same story.  After cleaning the new pump's innards and flushing the system, I reinstalled the pump and added an inline filter in the rack return line.   Everything seems to be working okay now.

enjenjo

I've had similar experiences. So now I  blow out all the lines with air, new or not. I also use plastic caps to seal the ends until they are hooked up.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

C9

The blue hose in the pic is a #10 rated 3000# - pretty sure that's the rated work load.

You can get it and the cad plated re-usable fittings at hydraulic shops and make the hose yourself using techniques similar to what you'd use to put an Earls or Aereoquip hose together.

Then fittings proper are SAE 45 degree angled.
You can combine them safely - in my experience - with the 37 degree braided stainless lines by utilizing a soft metal seat repair cone available from Earls.  (It's the small angled washer shown between the hoses.)
I use these hoses for the remote engine oil filter setup on my roadster and no problems in 43,000 miles.

The 3000# hoses are also available at oil field supply houses and maybe tractor or farm suply houses.
Some brands come in gloss black or flat black outer covering.

(Use caution if you decide to run fuel in these hoses.  My little brother did ok running fuel in a #8 line for the initial iteration of his Henry J drag racer - 455 Olds etc - but when I tried fuel in a locally available line, the fuel ate through the rubber/neoprene inner liner in less than 24 hours.

Earls has power steering rated lines as well.

If I remember right, the 77 Ford 4x4's power steering ran at 1700# or so and a smaller version of the blue line above worked fine.
Not to mention it was about 25% cheaper than the parts house replacement hose and way cheaper than the Gennie Ford hose - admittedly a better hose than the parts house hose.

You can combine a metric fitting with an SAE at the pump so as to adapt the home-made hose to your pump.

The #10, 3000# hose is stiffer than the #10 Earls braided stainless so you'll have to allow yourself some extra room in a tight turn situation, but you shouldn't have any problems with a power steering hose install.

The second pic shows some of the hydraulic fittings available - the cad plated stuff.
The fittings were less than half the cost of the Earls fittings and come in similar conficurations.

The last pic shows how tight you can bend the 3000# hose.
They were replaced by the #10 Earls since I had some and the Earls hose was a little easier to route into place.
Even so, I ran the 3000# hose where you see the Earls hose for about 35,000 miles with no problems.

To match the pics to the narration start from the bottom up.
C9

Sailing the turquoise canyons of the Arizona desert.

48builder

I just have to get to my local hydraulic shop and see what they can come up with. I have had the shop make me some other hoses in the psat, and they were pretty reasonable. It's taking me longer than I thought it would to get the location of everything figured out.
'48 Chevy Custom sedan in progress-Z28 LT1 drivetrain, chopped, shortened, too many other body mods to list
'39 Chevy driver

C9

Quote from: "48builder"I just have to get to my local hydraulic shop and see what they can come up with. I have had the shop make me some other hoses in the psat, and they were pretty reasonable. It's taking me longer than I thought it would to get the location of everything figured out.


That's the nice part about these re-usable fittings.
Buy a little bit longer piece of hose and make it on-scene.
That way you're assured of an exact fit.
C9

Sailing the turquoise canyons of the Arizona desert.