I bought a 48 Ford coupe today and have questions

[Beck]

I picked up a solid 48 Ford coupe today. I probably paid to much but it is nearly rust free which is rare here in the rust belt. This one came from CA. which explains it.
I have a few problems which need solving.
1) The hood doesn't close right. I know the hinges are notoriously bad but these look to be pretty decent ( I have never worked on one of these bodies so they may be junk).  Is there a trick to setting up the hinges?
2) The hood latch doesn't work. The safety latch catches but not the main latch. Do they "freeze up", or just wear out?
3) Same with the trunk latch. It just doesn't catch.
I trailered it home with a bunge on the trunk latch and a strap over the hood.
4) I am going to need a full set of stainless trim, door handles, and interior handles. Who sells the best at the best price?
5) I also need a center windshield divider and a rear pan to bumper splash apron.

I'm trying to figure out what rear axle to put in the car. I found a Granada today cheap. I considered a 8.8 Explorer but I read in the archives that the pinion is very ofset on these. I considered a S10 but haven't found the width of them yet. This will be mounted on Posies or Weedetr parallel lief kit.

Then there is the front suspension. Wow I'm lost here. Dropped tube on the original, MII, or a sub. The subs have fallen from favor but they ride so nice when done right.

I would like to run an overdrive transmission which means the X member will have to be really modified. I have seen a few kits for this. The ones that look strong really take a lot out of the center. The ones with just the lower plate don't butcher up the frame as bad but look weak to me. Help!

I found a deal on one of the baby LS1 motor and 700R4 transmissions. That motor was not my first choice but it is priced right. I'm considering a Ford in a Ford but don't know squat about the Ford drive line or parts. If I use the Granada rear it will have a high gear ratio and an overdrive wouldn't be needed. The Explorer rear would have a lower gear and the overdrive would be nice.

I have a lot of planning to do before making any purchases the way it looks. Any sugestions would be appreciated.  :?

Beck

[Beck]

I think I solved problem 2 (the hood latch). I took the panel off that holds the latch on the top of the grill. I had seen a bolt through one of the little cutouts in it and assumed it was some sort of an adjuster. Wrong. It appears a previous owner was tired of unlatching the hood durring fit up. The bolt was put there so the latch wouldn't catch.
If all the fixes were that easy it would be great.

There is a rubber on the top rear of the panel that goes on top of the panel the hood latch is attached to. What does this do. I assume it seals against the radiator. Mine has been primed long ago. Is this piece needed? Is it available reproduction?

I remember hearing that the core for the radiator could be slid forward about 1 1/2" on the 46 to 48 Ford. This places it where it is in the Mercury cars. That gives needed engine room. Does anyone know about this modification?

Thanks,
Beck

[rumrumm]

To start with, check out Chassis Engineering at www.chassisengineeringinc.com and examine the available chassis parts for your car. They are a very reputable company and nice people. They are also not that far away from you so  you could drive up to pick up the parts or consult with them face to face.

[1FATGMC]

I picked up a solid 48 Ford coupe today. I probably paid to much but it is nearly rust free which is rare here in the rust belt. This one came from CA. which explains it.
I have a few problems which need solving.
1) The hood doesn't close right. I know the hinges are notoriously bad but these look to be pretty decent ( I have never worked on one of these bodies so they may be junk).  Is there a trick to setting up the hinges?
2) The hood latch doesn't work. The safety latch catches but not the main latch. Do they "freeze up", or just wear out?
3) Same with the trunk latch. It just doesn't catch.
I trailered it home with a bunge on the trunk latch and a strap over the hood.
4) I am going to need a full set of stainless trim, door handles, and interior handles. Who sells the best at the best price?
5) I also need a center windshield divider and a rear pan to bumper splash apron.

I'm trying to figure out what rear axle to put in the car. I found a Granada today cheap. I considered a 8.8 Explorer but I read in the archives that the pinion is very ofset on these. I considered a S10 but haven't found the width of them yet. This will be mounted on Posies or Weedetr parallel lief kit.

Then there is the front suspension. Wow I'm lost here. Dropped tube on the original, MII, or a sub. The subs have fallen from favor but they ride so nice when done right.

I would like to run an overdrive transmission which means the X member will have to be really modified. I have seen a few kits for this. The ones that look strong really take a lot out of the center. The ones with just the lower plate don't butcher up the frame as bad but look weak to me. Help!

I found a deal on one of the baby LS1 motor and 700R4 transmissions. That motor was not my first choice but it is priced right. I'm considering a Ford in a Ford but don't know squat about the Ford drive line or parts. If I use the Granada rear it will have a high gear ratio and an overdrive wouldn't be needed. The Explorer rear would have a lower gear and the overdrive would be nice.

I have a lot of planning to do before making any purchases the way it looks. Any sugestions would be appreciated.  :?

Beck

Nice car.  Reminds me of one of my buddies cars in High School.  Of course the car was only about 11 years old then   .

Is the LS1 a car motor or you talking about one of the truck motors.  I looked into that also a while back but didn't like the problem of dealing with the wiring harness and computer.  Of course since you figured all of the wiring out on the GSX-R motor it might be a piece of cake for you.  That 700 is probably computer controlled, so you will have to run everything from the donor, at least that is what I'm thinking.

For a driver I still don't think you can beat the more conventional SBC, either the earlier ones our one of the new roller motors.  A roller motor will be my next motor.  An interesting one and not well know is that GM sells a crate Caprice roller motor new for about $1600 with the rollers.  The heads aren't great, but put on some vortecs or Iron Eagles and change the cam and you have a really nice street motor that will put out some hp and also get great gas mileage with the 700.  I'll bet you could get 350 hp and still 24 mpg at 75 with the 700 and right rear and have an easy to work on combination.

Good luck with the car Tom.

c ya, Sum

[Okiedokie]

Looks like you found a good one. Bob Drake and/or Dennis Carpenter Reproductions will have you seal and your trim. I have a 73 Mustang rear under my 46 with 8" wheels, 225/70 tires with plenty of clearance. Sounds as if you plan to build a rod, so you options are many. In my opinion the MII is a good choice, although the beam axle can be set up to work really well. Bout the same $'s, MII probably allows more room for small block ford motor. I have a 302 in my 46, would use a chevy motor if doing it again. Just due to availabilty of parts to accomplish building a rod. The Ford will fit with no firewall mods with the MII. Joe

[Beck]

To start with, check out Chassis Engineering at www.chassisengineeringinc.com and examine the available chassis parts for your car. They are a very reputable company and nice people. They are also not that far away from you so  you could drive up to pick up the parts or consult with them face to face.

I have used Chassis Engineering parts on a 33 Ford and a 48 Chevy. They worked fine on both. I want to use a parallel lief setup that mounts inside the frame rails. Chassis Engineering mounts theirs under the frame. To get them to sit right you have to use lowering blocks. Their center X member brackets don't widen the frame enough to use the overdrive automatics. Their front suspension parts would work fine for what I want. They are located quite a way from me. It would be cheaper to pay freight than fuel currently.
Thanks,
Beck

[48ford]

Beck,
On the hood latch,It has a cable under the dash.that opens it,but there is a little spring by the latch that will pull the latch shut a little so that when you close the hood it will latch.Without the spring it will not stay shut.
The hinges suck,just keep adjusting them and use nylock nuts so they can't back out,they should be snug not tight or to sloppy.
I used a chassie kit in the rear.It is a nice kit but you will need 4"blocks to get down a bit. I rad a rear sway bar but took it off as it makes the car "porpus' to much for me(handles good without it).
To gain some rom in the motor bay swap out the flatty radiator for a 6 cylinder one,they mount 3" forward(yep it looks small,but it keeps my 400 chevy at 180 all day.)get all the pans top and bottom to get all the air passing through the radiator.
The rubber you found may be for the upper pan on the radiator(you should not be seeing any radiator over the grill.(I need a camera)
I used the original axle,set up a reversed eye spring,tube shocks(64 chevy 1/2 ton fronts with owner made brackets)then a disc kit from speedway motors.(still need that camera)
used a G.M. power box that we made a bracket for,used the olds pitman arm(1984 delta 88)perfect.If you run a turbo 350 tranny you can get a wishbone splitting kit from chassis engineering that works nice(it drops the rear of the wishbones a bit that tilts the axle forward)But the big dummy wantes overdrive,thats a problem I realy had to chop out the X member to get it in. I used a 200 r4,and it works good,the 700 is bigger yet!I would not even try it.you will be behind where the X member comes into the center of the car.(man I need a camera)
You can get the O/D in but its work.Try to stick with the turbo 350 and a 3:00 or 3:25 rear end.lots less work.
The other way out of this is mustang II,or the front out of a 85 chrysler 5th ave(fits like a glove)and you wont have to build a new radiator support as it wraps around the frame.
I have a rear out of a 85 monte SS but its a tad to short,so I used 1" bolt on spacers and it fits nice now with Z 28 wheels.
Looks like a nice car,hope this helps you.
Russ&Irene

[phat rat]

Here's a pic of my cpe with Chassis Engineering rear springs (low ride) 2" lowering blocks and their sway bar.  Car handles like a go cart

[paul2748]

I have a 48 conv with a 304, C4 , 8 inch and MII.  The original engine trans and rear came out of a 68 Merc Montego.  

The rear, which i don't know the length of, fit perfectly.  I used a Chassis Engineering parallel leaf kit which is great, but you need lowering blocks.  They may have changed there kit, as mine was installed over 20 years ago.  Posies or some other company makes a kit that mounts the spring so you don't have to use lowereing blocks I think.  I had to change the spring pads on the rear.

The engine fit in the car without mods except I made two dents in the firewall with a ball peen hammer for the bellhousing bolts so the motor would go back to fit everything in the front.  I used the stock waterpump, no spacer between the fan and waterpump pulley.  Stock four blade fan.  Radiator is in stock position, but I did push the botton out (toward the front) about an inch as the fan was just nicking the Walker radiator.  I made up my own mounts using a tube type motor mount.  You can get these at Total Performance or use Chassis Engineering mounts.

Chassis Engineering also makes a xmember mod kit and the C4 fit perfectly with it.  There are two types of Xmembers - a welded type and riveted type.  The riveted type is easier to work with but they may have something for the welded type.

I used a steering column out of a early tbird and used stock type linkage for the shift arm.  Had to do some modifying to make it all work, but not that hard to do.  As evereything ended up, I was able to use an off the shelf driveshaft, but have no idea what it was.  You have to measure and start looking for the right length shaft.

Regarding the hood hinges. They are a bas***d to work with.  I finally got rid of the springs and went with a hood prop from Hyde Products.  Greatest thing since sliced bread.  Will post more later.  Glad to help out - if you have any more questions email me   ptschroll@aol.com.

Paul

[paul2748]

The only places I know of for new stainless trim is Carpenter or Bob Drake.  Here's a pick of my conv.

I like the MII.  Got 11 inch brakes on it.  Rides and handles great.



[/img]

[phat rat]

Here's a pic of my cpe with Chassis Engineering rear springs (low ride) 2" lowering blocks and their sway bar.  Car handles like a go cart

Didn't use anyones kit for the x-member. Had a local shop bend rails with the taper I needed, cut the x out about a foot from where it ties into the outer rails in frt and rear, ran the new rails tied them to the outer rails front and rear with additional crossmembers and used a cut down Nova crossmember for a tranny mount. I run a BBC with a 700R4. Car has a 74 Nova sub with the motor set 1 1/2" forward of original mounts. Didn't have to cut or dent the firewall at all. I also run the heaviest sway bar availible for the Nova sub

[bean]

I picked up a solid 48 Ford coupe today. I probably paid to much but it is nearly rust free which is rare here in the rust belt. This one came from CA. which explains it.
I have a few problems which need solving.
1) The hood doesn't close right. I know the hinges are notoriously bad but these look to be pretty decent ( I have never worked on one of these bodies so they may be junk).  Is there a trick to setting up the hinges?
2) The hood latch doesn't work. The safety latch catches but not the main latch. Do they "freeze up", or just wear out?
3) Same with the trunk latch. It just doesn't catch.
I trailered it home with a bunge on the trunk latch and a strap over the hood.
4) I am going to need a full set of stainless trim, door handles, and interior handles. Who sells the best at the best price?
5) I also need a center windshield divider and a rear pan to bumper splash apron.

I'm trying to figure out what rear axle to put in the car. I found a Granada today cheap. I considered a 8.8 Explorer but I read in the archives that the pinion is very ofset on these. I considered a S10 but haven't found the width of them yet. This will be mounted on Posies or Weedetr parallel lief kit.

Then there is the front suspension. Wow I'm lost here. Dropped tube on the original, MII, or a sub. The subs have fallen from favor but they ride so nice when done right.

I would like to run an overdrive transmission which means the X member will have to be really modified. I have seen a few kits for this. The ones that look strong really take a lot out of the center. The ones with just the lower plate don't butcher up the frame as bad but look weak to me. Help!

I found a deal on one of the baby LS1 motor and 700R4 transmissions. That motor was not my first choice but it is priced right. I'm considering a Ford in a Ford but don't know squat about the Ford drive line or parts. If I use the Granada rear it will have a high gear ratio and an overdrive wouldn't be needed. The Explorer rear would have a lower gear and the overdrive would be nice.

I have a lot of planning to do before making any purchases the way it looks. Any sugestions would be appreciated.  :?

Beck

[enjenjo]

If you decide on the beam axle, you will have to figure out something on mounting the wishbone, the modifications for a 700R4 eliminate any place to mount the wishbone.

WeedEater has a nice parallel leaf kit that mounts inside the rails, also a Posie's kit gets the rear down.

[bean]

Might have some parts for your '48.