Body work tools

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Lookin for body work tools.

Primarily  sanding boards that are flexable/adjustable for flexablity.

The flexable  long boards etc.  I've seen them with metal rod inserts to stiffen the board

What is the current hi-tech DA paper & pads to use?  I have stuff from the old days where the paper had sticky on the back , I also have some pads and paper with velcro type material

[tomslik]

Lookin for body work tools.

Primarily  sanding boards that are flexable/adjustable for flexablity.

The flexable  long boards etc.  I've seen them with metal rod inserts to stiffen the board

What is the current hi-tech DA paper & pads to use?  I have stuff from the old days where the paper had sticky on the back , I also have some pads and paper with velcro type material

i'd love ta help ya but they don't allow me to have bodywork tools.....

i suck and  i can't prove it.

[1FATGMC]

Lookin for body work tools.

Primarily  sanding boards that are flexable/adjustable for flexablity.

The flexable  long boards etc.  I've seen them with metal rod inserts to stiffen the board

What is the current hi-tech DA paper & pads to use?  I have stuff from the old days where the paper had sticky on the back , I also have some pads and paper with velcro type material

I use one long board with stick on 36/40 grit to rough to shape and another long board (both of these are the yellow plastic ones) with 80 grit to sand for the first coat of high build.  I also have two of those med length boards with the clips on the end that I hate.  A couple hard blocks and a bunch of different dia. hose.

Then I switch to 180 to 220 on those boards.

Finally I go to 400 wrapped on a paint stick and do everything with that before the sealer and top coats.

I find the long boards and other ones work just fine on rounded shapes like the front and rear fenders on my truck.  The trick is to be using a cross-hatch pattern and constanly moving where the pattern is on the compound curve.  Change paper often.

Personally I just don't see the need for those curved boards as you never want to sand alond the curve, but across it and it seems they would hardly ever be at the right curve shape.  I'll probably hear about this from some of you.

I think the bigest trick is to use the 36 or 40 and get things to shape with that.  You want to cut the shape not sand it.  Then sand the 36/40 grit scratches out with the 80 grit and hold the shape.

I haven't used my DA for years.  I can go faster with the boards and get better results.

c ya, Sum

My paint and bodywork and tips.

[Glen]

Tony.... I have a couple of nice long boards one takes the sticky type.
the other takes the clip on style long paper.  The sticky is nice, but of course those papers cost more.

Your welcome to use them as I am obviously not using them right now.

[Ed ke6bnl]

Lookin for body work tools.

Primarily  sanding boards that are flexable/adjustable for flexablity.

The flexable  long boards etc.  I've seen them with metal rod inserts to stiffen the board

What is the current hi-tech DA paper & pads to use?  I have stuff from the old days where the paper had sticky on the back , I also have some pads and paper with velcro type material

I use one long board with stick on 36/40 grit to rough to shape and another long board (both of these are the yellow plastic ones) with 80 grit to sand for the first coat of high build.  I also have two of those med length boards with the clips on the end that I hate.  A couple hard blocks and a bunch of different dia. hose.

Then I switch to 180 to 220 on those boards.

Finally I go to 400 wrapped on a paint stick and do everything with that before the sealer and top coats.

I find the long boards and other ones work just fine on rounded shapes like the front and rear fenders on my truck.  The trick is to be using a cross-hatch pattern and constanly moving where the pattern is on the compound curve.  Change paper often.

Personally I just don't see the need for those curved boards as you never want to sand alond the curve, but across it and it seems they would hardly ever be at the right curve shape.  I'll probably hear about this from some of you.

I think the bigest trick is to use the 36 or 40 and get things to shape with that.  You want to cut the shape not sand it.  Then sand the 36/40 grit scratches out with the 80 grit and hold the shape.

I haven't used my DA for years.  I can go faster with the boards and get better results.

c ya, Sum



wow you said and do everything my autobody teacher has been teaching us, my by and I , He always used long board not a flexable one and the order of sanding grades of paper is what we learned and for the reason you explained.  Good work Ed ke6bnl

My paint and bodywork and tips.

[WZ JUNK]

I use a mud hog a lot for roughing in.  It is a large DA type sander used with 36/40 grit paper.

Do what Sumner says for the rest.

[NudeAutoMall]

Anyone got any model numbers or links to that flexable board where you can change the stiffness.