Brake return spring question

[Ohio Blue Tip]

What's the best way and location to put a brake pedal return spring on an under the floor system?  Pictures or a sketch if anybody has one?
I have a typical under floor master cylinder and typical after market pedal.  (1934 Ford with stock frame)

[C9]

What's the best way and location to put a brake pedal return spring on an under the floor system?  Pictures or a sketch if anybody has one?
I have a typical under floor master cylinder and typical after market pedal.  (1934 Ford with stock frame)

Here's one way.
You can do it without a lathe if you cut out the seat from two pieces of aluminum with hole saws.
Two different diameters will give you an internally stepped seat that will locate the spring at the front.

For the rear, just stretch the spring open a touch so it wraps around the front cast part of the wheel cylinder.
That will center the spring as well as retain it.

Then you'll need to cut some threads on the stock M/C pushrod after you cut the eye off.
(The threads are hard to see in the photo, but they are there.)

The spring proper is a commonly available hardware store item.

[Rochie]

OBT,
Jay Carnine did a popst on a brake return spring over on the HAMB.  Nice and simple.  Here's the link

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43686&highlight=brake+return+spring

Rochie

[Rochie]

jeez you're fast Jay.
Rochie

[Dave]

What's the best way and location to put a brake pedal return spring on an under the floor system?  Pictures or a sketch if anybody has one?
I have a typical under floor master cylinder and typical after market pedal.  (1934 Ford with stock frame)

I just made one last week . I used aluminum and made it like the dons hot rod piece only did it my way.. I can get you everything cept the spring if you need it.. About  30 minutes lathe work. Mine is a cap that goes over the m/c and just a washer for the rod end but I counter bored each piece for the spring to set into and keep it located and close to center at all times
Dave

[Pope Downunder]

What's the best way and location to put a brake pedal return spring on an under the floor system?  Pictures or a sketch if anybody has one?
I have a typical under floor master cylinder and typical after market pedal.  (1934 Ford with stock frame)

I like Jay's solution.
However, when I built the '32 I just hooked up a tension spring running forward to a tab on the top 4-bar bolt.  It is a straight line on mine, and looks neat.

Where the pedal penetrates the floor, I welded some flat around the pedal and stuck rubber to that.  It acts as a positive stop, and seals the hole through the floor.

[X38]

Gee PD, great minds think alike!

Only I didn't use the 4 bar for a front anchor - made another one. My spring's only about 4" long.

[jeffa]

I must admit, it's something I haven't yet devised for my Rod, but I like the idea of a concentric coil spring around the master cylinder pushord. On my Essex I have a fairly long rod that pushes on the vacuum diaphragm so there's plenty of scope for a concentric spring.
But, for those with limitted space and looking for a neat solution, how about a torsion spring (like a mouse trap spring) that wraps around the pedal fulcrum/pivot. That would look neat and be very unobtrusive, also it wouldn't be subject to getting snagged on grass etc like a tension spring between the pedal and a bracket on the chassis etc.

[Ohio Blue Tip]

Thanks for all the ideas.  I like Jay's solution, but I would have to cut the frame for more clearance for the spring and things are getting more back together.  May go with the forward expansion spring for now.  Thanks again for the help, the RRT always has several good solutions.

[C9]

Far as an escutcheon for the brake pedal goes here's an easy way to do it.

Makes for a nice way to finish things off as well as retain the carpet.

You can cut this out of 1/8 - 3/16"  aluminum plate 3/16" preferred) with a hole saw.
Make an arbor by sawing off the head of a bolt, use two nuts and two washers on the threaded end, use that to clamp the round aluminum piece in a drill press chuck and finish with file and a 3M abrasive pad.
The maroon - I think that's medium grit - works well for me.

Drill to the size required for the brake pedal.

Drill for a couple of 1/4-20 standard head stainless allens.
Drill for a step so the allen bolt heads sink into the aluminum a ways.
That will keep the allens from boogering up the aluminum plate and they look kinda cool sunk in a ways.
A standard drill works fine for the step and after 1-2 install and removal cycles a seat will be formed inside the hole.

Make a matching Teflon piece from 1/8" to fit the escutcheon and cut to fit the brake pedal shape on the inside.
That will give you a good seal.

(The escutcheon in the pic was done on a lathe and a small pattern machined on the upper corner.)

The second pic shows the difference between a step drilled hole and a regular straight hole when standard head allens are used.

If you're involved in a project that takes an even thicker piece of aluminum I usually sink the step drilled section deep enough so the standard allen head is flush with the surface.

[C9]

Couldn't get the pic to go in the above post cuz it was too big.

This should do it . . . famous last wrods....

[Ohio Blue Tip]

Nice work, but I already have a brake pedal escutcheon from Watson's ($20) and a Vintique column escutcheon ($50).  Ya, it hurts to spend the money on parts I can make myself (old tool & die maker), but time is the thing and I want to get this thing on the road.

[n.c.rodder]

but time is the thing and I want to get this thing on the road.

Your still better off than if you'ld bought the truck!

[Ohio Blue Tip]

but time is the thing and I want to get this thing on the road.

Your still better off than if you'ld bought the truck!

I may still buy the truck ya know!

[n.c.rodder]

I may still buy the truck ya know!

Easy big fella!!.........One at a time

Mike