'57 Chev Rearend Question

39chevy · April 17, 2005, 10:11:52 AM

Before the snow flew last winter I was able to get the '57 rearend installed on my '39 but all I could do was roll it into the garage and wait for warm weather to return so I could get the body back on to see how the car looked for wheel base and ride height.

This weekend turned out to be warm enough so I got to it, but when I lowered the car to roll it out of the garage the rearend was locked up as in rotate one wheel and the other counter rotates.

I have never worked on a rearend before so I don't know all the ins and outs of the things so could one of you gurus give me some lessons here? What am I missing?

Thanks, Don

enjenjo · April 17, 2005, 11:20:06 AM

sounds like for some reason your ring and pinion is locked up. Possibly a bearing got rusty over the winter?

reborn55 · April 17, 2005, 08:10:58 PM

are you saying that on the ground the wheels try to turn in opposite direction. On the non-posi units if you turn one wheel in one direction the other will turn in the opposite direction while up in the air.

enjenjo · April 17, 2005, 09:03:59 PM

normally, the wheels will roll easily in either direction, as long as the pinion gear is free to turn, posi or not. If the pinion is not turning, with an open rear, the wheels will turn in opposite directions when you jack it up. so, for whatever reason, the pinion is not turning. A bearing tued up, something caught between the ring and pinion, the driveshaft is in, and the trans is in gear or in park, any one of several reasons. But the reason the wheels are turning opposite directions, the pinion shaft isn't turning.

39chevy · April 18, 2005, 10:44:29 AM

You can rotate the axles when the car is in the air - rotate one and the other counter-rotates. So the axle bearings must be ok, they may still need to be replaced but they are not frozen. Put the car on the ground and try to push it and it acts as though you had it in park, but I don't have the driveshaft installed.

So my conclusion is the pinion bearing must be frozen. Wouldn't you know it as I am posting this response it is SNOWING so when warm weather returns I'll pull the axles and get the pumpkin out and take a look.

purplepickup · April 18, 2005, 12:10:59 PM

When you do take the pumkin out you might want to check the spider gears and shaft for cracks and wear. That's a weak point in those rearends. In fact it could be that one has broken and a chunk of gear is caught between the ring and pinion. Sometimes if the shaft isn't too badly worn you can rotate it 180 degrees since they wear more on one side. That's not a great fix but since they don't make them anymore, you're at least putting torque on the side with some case hardness left. Just remember the orientation when you take it out.

I run a '57 rearend in my pickup and I've gone thru quite a few spider gears and shafts. Before they crushed an old junkyard by me I got about 10 pumpkins. Many that I checked had badly worn spider gear shafts so I just left them.

39chevy · April 20, 2005, 03:57:24 PM

George,

I understand on these '57 rearends that you remove the 4 bolts at the end of the axle and use a slide hammer to pull them out. As opposed to removing c-clips and then sliding the axles out. Is this correct?

Thanks, Don

Uncle Bob · April 20, 2005, 04:14:25 PM

Quote from: "39chevy"George,

I understand on these '57 rearends that you remove the 4 bolts at the end of the axle and use a slide hammer to pull them out. As opposed to removing c-clips and then sliding the axles out. Is this correct?

Thanks, Don

Correct...................as long as it is an original rear. The only way to remove C clips is by removing the plate on the rear of the housing center section. An original '57 housing doesn't have that removeable plate, the rear covering is fixed part of the housing. If you don't have a slide hammer, usually you can use a length of chain attached to two opposing lug studs with just a bit of slack. A sharp "yank" will normally give it enough "shock" to free it from the spiders.

39chevy · April 26, 2005, 10:41:23 PM

Today I was able to remove the axle from the drivers side using a slide hammer with no problems. I foolishly thought that the passengers side would be just as easy and in a matter of minutes I would have the third member on the bench. So after 10 minutes of hammering the thing just will not budge.

So do I need to apply some heat to the bearing or is there some other trick?

Thanks,
Don

GPster · April 27, 2005, 08:26:00 AM

Quote from: "39chevy"Today I was able to remove the axle from the drivers side using a slide hammer with no problems. I foolishly thought that the passengers side would be just as easy and in a matter of minutes I would have the third member on the bench. So after 10 minutes of hammering the thing just will not budge.

So do I need to apply some heat to the bearing or is there some other trick?

Thanks,
Don

BACK IN THE DAYS WHEN THEY WERE CURRENT PRODUCTION there was a tool available that went between the back of the axel flange and the brake backing plate (missing the axel retaining flange and the bearing) that could be tightened up to force the axel out. This tightened in different place so as not to bend the backing plate. This was a problem from '55 to '64 and was probably part of the deason that Chevy went back to "C" clip retained axels when they changed rearend types. Probably the best thingif you can't borrow this tool somewhere is to keep-up with the slide hammer. I'd be afraid with a torch unless someone can give you specific instructions because there has to be a grease seal in there somewhere. GPster

slocrow · April 27, 2005, 09:15:32 AM

It'll come. Keep using the slid hammer. I'm surprised you got the drums off so easy. That use to be the big problem.
Back in the days we would bolt a length of chain to two lug studs and have at it with a grab bar. They all eventually came out. Good luck...........Frank

rumrumm · April 27, 2005, 10:00:06 AM

I had a tough time with one a few years ago. But do as Frank says--keep using the slide hammer. Eventually it will pop out. Just make sure you don't pinch your finger in the slide hammer. I can tell you from experience it will cause a lot blue language! Hurts, too!

CruZer · April 29, 2005, 01:53:18 PM

Quote from: "rumrumm"I had a tough time with one a few years ago. But do as Frank says--keep using the slide hammer. Eventually it will pop out. Just make sure you don't pinch your finger in the slide hammer. I can tell you from experience it will cause a lot blue language! Hurts, too!

Probably a dumb reply but NAPA has the axel bearings and seals.

GPster · April 29, 2005, 02:11:52 PM

Quote from: "CruZer"
Probably a dumb reply but NAPA has the axel bearings and seals.

No this is the dumb reply. He has to get it apart first. GPster

39chevy · April 29, 2005, 02:35:58 PM

So just how big of a slide hammer do I need? I worked on this axle for about an hour last night and only managed to loosen the backing plate and bearing retainer. I also broke the nut off my slide hammer which I welded back on.

It looks like I might have moved the axel out a little under a 1/32". If I wasn't so cheap I'd rip this puppy out and find a 10-12 bolt or '60 Pontiac/Olds instead, but I'm a true Scotsman and got this one for free so what can I say. Now it's a matter of pride, I will not be beaten by this thing.

And thanks for the NAPA tip while I have this apart I'll replace the bearings and seals.

Do you think a 4x4 and a big logging chain and 30-40 mph.... nah better not, probably pull the 4x4 bumper off