cost of building a "grassroots" hotrod

brianangus · February 13, 2005, 08:37:15 AM

have been working on the roadster pickup for a year now, doing mostly everything myself. I paid $2000 for the semi finished project, but all I managed to salvage was the main body shell, butchered frame, 40 Ford spindles and S10 rearend. I sold the chrome undropped I beam axle and various "wrong" parts for $300. I only paid $200 for a used small block chev engine and turbo 350. The metal body had to be completely torn down and rebuilt from scratch, I fabricated a new bed, and used fiberglass fenders, splash aprons, hood, and grillshell. After the body was completely rebuilt in steel, I paid a professional bodyman $2500 to do the finish bondo work after I had welded on it for 6 weeks straight---(thats the only work that I have farmed out). I boxed the original frame and built new crossmembers. Over the last month I have spent close to $4000 for a Grant steering wheel, Ididit tilt column, a Lokar shifter, Billet Specialties column drop and dash insert, Autometer gauges and a third steering column universal joint. I still need to spend $1000 for Coker wide whitewall tires, $1000 for paint (I will paint it myself), $1000 for an interior, and probably another $1000 in miscellaneous brake and wiring stuff. I currently have $16,500 invested, at this point in the build. If I hadn't farmed out the bodywork and had used wrecking yard steering parts and gearshift, I could probably be at the current state of build for closer to $10,000. I am a bit wealthier and a lot older now, so tramping thru the wrecking yards trying to find cheap parts was not done this time around. I am not sure about 32 Fords, everything for them is more expensive, however considering that the cost of my body and fenders and new bed and bodywork came to close to $5500 I think I could have bought a budget fiberglass body and been just about at the same point I am now for the same money.--I do believe you can buid a respectable hotrod, maybe even a 1932 for under $20,000 and thats in Canada where things cost about 50% more than in the States. However, for that price you would do everything yourself, farm absolutely nothing out, and get real friendly with your local wrecking yard owner.

Phil1934 · February 13, 2005, 09:06:02 AM

Quote from: "brianangus"I do believe you can buid a respectable hotrod, maybe even a 1932 for under $20,000 and thats in Canada where things cost about 50% more than in the States. However, for that price you would do everything yourself, farm absolutely nothing out, and get real friendly with your local wrecking yard owner.

You need something to start with, and a f'glass body and frame will put you over $12K. Repro steel will cost $5K more. As an example follow this onehttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4527399116&category=6221
Still 2 days to go so I suspect it will go for near $20K. While some have found the start for a grand or two and have access to cheap JY parts, almost anyone will sink $20K into anything popular. Admittedly a late '40's model truck with orig. running gear can come in for less than $10K. I'll finish a '39 for under $16K with a clip and Chevelle rear, while a Model Y will go $25K with M II and Jag and Tremec 5 speed. I've got $6K in just putting a 350 in a 260Z!

Dave · February 13, 2005, 09:12:19 AM

Quote from: "brianangus"have been working on the roadster pickup for a year now, doing mostly everything myself. I paid $2000 for the semi finished project, but all I managed to salvage was the main body shell, butchered frame, 40 Ford spindles and S10 rearend. I sold the chrome undropped I beam axle and various "wrong" parts for $300. I only paid $200 for a used small block chev engine and turbo 350. The metal body had to be completely torn down and rebuilt from scratch, I fabricated a new bed, and used fiberglass fenders, splash aprons, hood, and grillshell. After the body was completely rebuilt in steel, I paid a professional bodyman $2500 to do the finish bondo work after I had welded on it for 6 weeks straight---(thats the only work that I have farmed out). I boxed the original frame and built new crossmembers. Over the last month I have spent close to $4000 for a Grant steering wheel, Ididit tilt column, a Lokar shifter, Billet Specialties column drop and dash insert, Autometer gauges and a third steering column universal joint. I still need to spend $1000 for Coker wide whitewall tires, $1000 for paint (I will paint it myself), $1000 for an interior, and probably another $1000 in miscellaneous brake and wiring stuff. I currently have $16,500 invested, at this point in the build. If I hadn't farmed out the bodywork and had used wrecking yard steering parts and gearshift, I could probably be at the current state of build for closer to $10,000. I am a bit wealthier and a lot older now, so tramping thru the wrecking yards trying to find cheap parts was not done this time around. I am not sure about 32 Fords, everything for them is more expensive, however considering that the cost of my body and fenders and new bed and bodywork came to close to $5500 I think I could have bought a budget fiberglass body and been just about at the same point I am now for the same money.--I do believe you can buid a respectable hotrod, maybe even a 1932 for under $20,000 and thats in Canada where things cost about 50% more than in the States. However, for that price you would do everything yourself, farm absolutely nothing out, and get real friendly with your local wrecking yard owner.

http://home.comcast.net/~n8dc-8/hotrod0.html
My car link. Glass body done with quite a bit of chrome new gm 350 3/4 block 35k... I did farm out the paint Im real tired of doing body work.
Dave

kb426 · February 13, 2005, 10:04:26 AM

Dave, I like your 32. In regards to the first topic, to build anything for less than 10 grand means there won't be many new parts. We all know that depending on what the car is, that somethings have to be purchased to have it look right, much less be dependable and safe.

Bib_Overalls · February 13, 2005, 11:29:30 AM

Try this link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4527399116

Brian,

Can you post some pictures of your roadster pickup. From your post I understand the cab is steel. Is it an original 32 or did you start with something else? My understanding is 32 roadster pickups are rare birds indeed.

Steve

Red LeClear · February 13, 2005, 12:49:23 PM

I have about $17,500 in my 29 Model A coupe. I did all the work except for upholstery and auto trans rebuild. The body was parts of 6 cars and I did a lot junkyard shopping. I already had a 350 chevy and auto trans, but I had to rebuild the engine. I think anybody doing if for under $10,000 has spent a lot of time junkyard shopping and the car probably is barebones. Just my $.02.

purplepickup · February 13, 2005, 03:48:42 PM

I needed to build my truck on a small budget and finished it for less than 10K with the first engine, one that I built. The ZZ crate engine that's in it now put me up to about 13K. I paid 4K for the truck and used the stock frame, stock rear springs, a junkyard 55-64 chevy rear & steering column, made many of the simple parts, did paint & bodywork myself, and did my own interior (all flat panels). I used a Corvair frontend that I converted to a rear steer rack. The major things I had to buy were the radiator, gauges, wheels and tires, wiring harness, engine parts & machining, and power windows. I have a friend with a sheet metal shop who helped with louvers and some sheet metal parts.

Building it to drive was my goal.....not showing it. It doesn't follow any theme and it's a little rough around the edges but it's been fun. We've had many cross country trips together and hope to have many more.

kb426 · February 13, 2005, 04:38:07 PM

That 32 on ebay is a relist. I don't remember what it went to the first time but I thought it was about 20.

phat46 · February 13, 2005, 04:57:15 PM

Depends on each persons definition of "barebones".
I have less than $9,000 in my '46; it's no show winner; no power windows, no air, no heater, Many junkyard parts, for example, the Must II frontend uses all the stock Must II parts, including the crossmember...$200, all rebuilt as compared to $2,000 for a kit. Stops, steers, handles the same. All bodywork, paint, upholtery, wiring, and mechanical work done by me. I've driven it to Louisville twice, only opened the hood to check the oil; I'd drive it there again tomorrow.

I'm building a '40 pickup now that will come in under $4,000. $300 for the old farm truck for a cab/hood. I traded a $400 motorcycle for a friends late 70's Ford pickup that was having wiring and rust probs. Took the 429/C6 9" rear out of it for power. I built my own frame from 2X3 7ga. tubing that I got new for scrap prices through my brother who worked at a fab shop. the most expensive item so far has been the aluminum rad i had made for it, $460. The bed came from a fellow rodder that was gonna toss out an extra box he made for a model A truck he built; $25, that was truely a deal! Everything else, except wheels and tires will be nickle and dime stuff and the wheels will probably just be chrome reverse.

It can be done, but everyone will have a different idea of "barebones". Mine doesn't include air conditioning, polished aluminum steering columns, sculpted tweed interiors and Boyd wheels. It would be nice to start with a nice "new" body and buy all the great parts that are available to bolt on and even farm out some stuff, but I can't at the present time take that money from the family budget. Maybe someday though, after the college loans are paid off and I'm retired!

Well, back out to the shop, I got a bunch of welds to smooth out.