Help...How to Remove a Few Stubborn Bolts??

[40]

A while back I purchased a rotisserie.Currently,I have my 36 on it prepping the floors for paint.All of the bolts that are tightened to hold it in various positions I believe are Grade 8.It has set for months in a "Relaxed" position ,you might say with none of the bolts tightened.I went to do a little work on it yesterday and found that all of the bolts are siezed up....they will not turn either in or out.They were all turned in/out with my fingers previously?The shop is climate controlled and I'm nearly certain that rust is not an issue....they appear to be new....the rotisserie is raw steel and isn't even showing surface rust.They are stuck to the point that I can't budge them with a 3/4 ratchet and cheater bar.I am wondering if the differing types of steel have caused a chemical adhesion?Any ideas/suggestions greatly appreciated....I would sure hate to have to cut off all of the nuts that have been welded on and start over

[rooster]

Daryle, How about a good Rap with a brass hammer, then impack gun! After that add HEAT, do it again.

[enjenjo]

My guess is you have zinc plated bolts, and they have drawn enough moisture to corrode slightly. Try some penetrating oil, and see if that frees them up. If it does, put some never seize on them before putting them back in.

[Bruce Dorsi]

I'll echo Rooster's suggestion of the impact wrench.

Often, the multiple impacts from the gun are more effective in loosening corroded fasteners than the steady pressure from leverage.
....Don't be afraid to let the gun "rap-rap-rap" for awhile.  

Of course, Frank's suggestion for use of a penetrant and anti-seize is valid.

[Mikej]

Give me the old thing Daryle and than you can get a new one.  I'll see if I can get it apart.

[Bob Paulin]

Still on-topic - STUBBORN BOLT REMOVAL - but, drifting away from current project........

For those of us who still deal with a number of sub-assemblies and parts from the local automotive recycling emporium, here's a dis-assembly trick.

While working in the spring shop, I learned an invaluable time-saver when it comes to removing bolts that run through steel-encased, rubber bushings - such as front spring eyes, four-link control arms,  and lower front control arm bushings.

Turn the BOLT HEAD first........ DO NOT LOOSEN THE NUT!!!!!

DO NOT put a wrench on the nut. Turn the bolt head until the nut on the other side spins freely.

If you turn the bolt head first, the nut helps to hold the inner steel bushing in place, so the bolt can break free from the rust.

Once you have removed the nut, if the bolt is frozen inside the steel bushing, it is working against the rubber bushing which allows the inner steel bushing to turn and "give" instead of breaking free from the bolt.

I've tried to re-tighten the nut, but it just doesn't work.

This used to be a particular problem in the mid-'60s Ford Fairlanes we would get into the shop for rear springs.

I would work one side while the other guy would work the other. I had told him of my discovery, but he simply didn't believe me.

I would turn the bolt first, and have everything come apart.

He would remove the nut, then spend up to one-half hour with an air hammer driving the bolt out of his side.

We even swapped sides - with him claiming that one side was subjected to more New England road salt than the other - but, I would STILL beat him.....if I put the wrench on the bolt head first.

I currently deal with a lot of 108" GM Metric chassis, and I have absolutely no trouble removing the front and rear control arms if I loosen the bolt head first.

Always...ALWAYS.....turn the head of the bolt FIRST...and you'll struggle a lot less with steel-encased, rubber bushings.

B.P.