master cylinder I.D. help please

[slocrow]

The build sheet says Mustang GT but not a year or type. I'm wondering if the stamped and casting #'s ID the unit as disc/disc or disc/drum, split reservoir or not and the year. On the bottom of the part are stamped numbers as follows; 10 26 3 1 followed by a raised 64. After the mid point break are D9BC (a logo) and a raised X. Thanks for any info.....Frank

[enjenjo]

The casting number is the second number, but you don't have all of it.  It should be D9BCxxxxP If it is indeed a Mustang master cylinder, it will be 21 mm bore, disc/drum, or it could be Fairmont, 7/8" bore disc/drum, or Escort 21mm disc/drum. FWIW, all aplications I found with the D9BC prefix were disc/drum, and all were either 7/8" or 21mm bore which is for practical purposes the same.

[Charlie Chops 1940]

Is this on your coupe Frank?

[slocrow]

The casting number is the second number, but you don't have all of it.  It should be D9BCxxxxP If it is indeed a Mustang master cylinder, it will be 21 mm bore, disc/drum, or it could be Fairmont, 7/8" bore disc/drum, or Escort 21mm disc/drum. FWIW, all aplications I found with the D9BC prefix were disc/drum, and all were either 7/8" or 21mm bore which is for practical purposes the same.

Interesting! Thanks Frank. I'll take another look for more of a number and will let you know what I find, if anything. This info is certainly an eye opener.

Yes Charlie. It's the under car master that I'm currently employing.

[Charlie Chops 1940]

The reason I asked that was that I thought you had 4 wheel disc brakes which would lead me to think the master is the wrong one, and the bore size would seem to be a tad small. What do you think Mr. Enjenjo?

Charlie

[slocrow]

Charlie; I do have disc's around which is what has caused this inquiry. As you remember from Columbus GG, I was concerned about my pedal travel and all around poor brakes. Also, since removing the bog I notice I push through the lights when winding it up on the brakes. Can't hold it back nor lock them up in a panic. Needing to fix this before waxing the chrome I've been doing some discussion and investigating of the system and it's components. I suspected a disc/drum master along with some bad residual valves inline and who knows about the factory one that's supposed to be working in the master, for the rears. It looks like the chassis was originally set up for a disc/drum system and then somebody changed too disc's in the rear without changing over the master nor replacing the 10# rear residual with a 2 pounder. The current set up probably want's more fluid then this master can deliver rearward, though the 7/8 bore helps with increased pressure of what's there.
I'm hoping too find a disc/disc manual master with engine side outlets so that when it's reversed under the car the outlets will be facing the frame or drivers side. A 7/8's or 1" bore would work fine though 7/8's would be my choice.
Did I explain it clear enough? .....Frank

[enjenjo]

At first glance it sounds wrong, but I would have to know more about the rest of the system, and I don't remember what Frank has for brakes.

[Charlie Chops 1940]

You two must have posted on top of each other. There  is a Corvette type disc/disc cast iron master cylinder available from someone, with outlets on both sides of the cylinder to solve just that hookup problem. 1" bore for manual  and 1-1/8 for power if memory serves still. Can't remember who the vendor was though. Maybe someone on here will know who it is.

Charlie

[slocrow]

I don't remember what Frank has for brakes.

Frank; What can I tell you. Wilwood 4 pistons at the corners with dual bleeders.  
The afore mentioned master along with a Heidts Mustang 2 with 11" vented (stock I'm guessing) rotors up front.
A Ford 9" rear with two piece rotors (hats & rotors) out back. No emergency system.
3/16 Lines with a red (drum) residual rear and a blue up front (yes, I know).
What else do you need to know? Just ask. As I wait humbly at the feet of the Master.

Charlie; Hope someone chimes in as that seems to be the master answer.....
Thanks, Frank

[Dave]

You two must have posted on top of each other. There  is a Corvette type disc/disc cast iron master cylinder available from someone, with outlets on both sides of the cylinder to solve just that hookup problem. 1" bore for manual  and 1-1/8 for power if memory serves still. Can't remember who the vendor was though. Maybe someone on here will know who it is.

Charlie

Everyone sells that M/C now. I think that will cure his problem. Im thinking the resivor for the rear is too small and maybe the front is doing all the braking but also not well enuff. I sent him a pm cause i lost his email addy in the switch to xp here and im gonna find a part number for him also. I put one on the model a i was working on this summer and it worked fine but it was a disk/drum.  I have also seen em on ebay..
Dave

[Dave]

You two must have posted on top of each other. There  is a Corvette type disc/disc cast iron master cylinder available from someone, with outlets on both sides of the cylinder to solve just that hookup problem. 1" bore for manual  and 1-1/8 for power if memory serves still. Can't remember who the vendor was though. Maybe someone on here will know who it is.

Charlie

Everyone sells that M/C now. I think that will cure his problem. Im thinking the resivor for the rear is too small and maybe the front is doing all the braking but also not well enuff. I sent him a pm cause i lost his email addy in the switch to xp here and im gonna find a part number for him also. I put one on the model a i was working on this summer and it worked fine but it was a disk/drum.  I have also seen em on ebay..
Dave

To follow up on that last post I got one from old dog street rods. I picked up thier catalog at the nats and so far they were the only ones to list a power and non power dual m/c with dual ports. 69.95 is the going price thru them.. I sent frank another email with the part number and phone number. I actually think its a stainless steel brakes part number as they listed it a ssb-whatever part number. I do have a catalog here if anyone else needs the number////// never mind I got the catalog heres the numbers
Power is ssb-0400b
non power is ssb- 0401b
ill throw in the phone number in case anyone needs it 1-866-291-1940
Dave

[enjenjo]

Well, you guys pretty much have it covered, The only other thing I would like to know is the pedal ratio, and how the pedal feels. Does it feel rock hard, but not enough brake action, or is it a softer feel, but not spongy.

[phat rat]

Well, you guys pretty much have it covered, The only other thing I would like to know is the pedal ratio, and how the pedal feels. Does it feel rock hard, but not enough brake action, or is it a softer feel, but not spongy.

Rock hard or soft?    That's the wrong question to ask Slowcro  

[enjenjo]

Well, you guys pretty much have it covered, The only other thing I would like to know is the pedal ratio, and how the pedal feels. Does it feel rock hard, but not enough brake action, or is it a softer feel, but not spongy.

Rock hard or soft?    That's the wrong question to ask Slowcro  

You're right. With *, or without?

[slocrow]

Well, you guys pretty much have it covered, The only other thing I would like to know is the pedal ratio, and how the pedal feels. Does it feel rock hard, but not enough brake action, or is it a softer feel, but not spongy.

Sorry, don't know the pedal ratio yet. Maybe later. It's the normal flat plate (stamped I'm guessing) that is cut off just past the angle where a maybe 9/16 round stock is welded on with a threaded end to except the pedal. I guess I'd measure for the big number from the top straight down to the pivot point and disregard the rightish angle. Is that correct? The pedal is soft and a little squishy. Probably the squishy is some air, as I can pump it up a 1/2" or so. Diffidently not hard! Are you asking with the bore size in mind? My concern too which is why I prefer a 7/8ths over an 1". Thanks, Frank

*? A product developed by a "She Devil", no doubt.......