Running Boards

[40Tudor]

I pulled the running boards off this 39 Stude today, the rubber on them is petrified. Any ideas on getting the old rubber off? they are going to need a bit of straightening before the new covers go on.

Hi - been away for awhile having kids, etc...but lurking again recently.

I did the running boards on my '40 last year.  The old rubber comes off pretty easy with judicious use of a torch (i used propane) on the back side while scraping the front side.  Followed that up with some 80 grit DA and sand blasting.

My covers came from Drake back when he was shipping glue with them (I don't think he sells the glue anymore).  Came out pretty lumpy - the solvent in the glue really softens up the rubber.  Maybe I used too much.  Would love to hear the 'right' way.  

Oh yeah....Since I left, it looks like there's a member named 40_Tudor.  I'm not him.  

Chris

[EMSjunkie]

Why would you just not use 3M body Molding Adheasive or Weather Strip adheasive from an auto body store?

 

Just a thought.

Excellent idea     Thats one reason I ask here, knew sombody would have an idea or two.
Thanks guys.

Vance

[rusttorod]

Hey guys,
I usually lurq around here, but I finally have something valuable to contribute! I had the same problem with getting the old rubber off my old running boards from my '34 Plymouth. I tried all kinds of ways to scrape it off. But the thing that finally worked - an electrolysis tank. I don't know if there's been any discussion on this topic here or not, so I'll just explain what I did.

I used a big shop trash can, about 45 gallons I think.
Get a box of Arm & Hammer WASHING SODA. This stuff is not the same as baking soda, which goes in your refrigerator. Washing Soda looks very similar, but it's used in the clothes washing machine. I got mine from Kroger, but you may have to search around for it.
Fill your big plastic tank with water. Warm water will disolve the soda faster, but the garden hose will be fine.
The amount of soda isn't too critical. Some sources say one tablespoon per gallon. Some say more, some less. I just sprinkled about half the box in real slow, and stirred well.
Get a battery charger, hook the black clamp to a clean, shiny steel part of the running board (or any other rusty part you want to clean) and hook the red clamp to a sacrificial piece of steel. Bigger is better. I had a 4 inch wide, 4 foot tall strip of 16 gauge steel. Turn the battery charger on as high as it goes. Mine was a 100 amp fast charger.
Leave your running board in the water for a couple days. Then take them out, rinse with a garden hose, and you'll see the rubber literally falling off in whole chunks. If some sections are still stuck (and by stuck, I mean they aren't falling off effortlessly), then back in the tank they go for another couple days. My boards took about a week to clean each one.
I learned how to do this by searching the net for electrolysis info, but one of the best links I found is here:

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

This page will answer most all your questions.
Try it, and you'll learn to love electrolysis!

Here's a couple more links I found while surfing -

http://www.runningboardmats.com
http://www.smoothiefabrication.com

Good luck!
-Shane Smith
www.RustToRod.com

[frankeric]

Hi all. I am a new member, 5min, and I have a question. I have a 34 ford cabriolet with running boards that I want to cover with rubber. I cut out the rubber peices and I am ready to glue them down. Someone told me to use Gorilla Glue but I want to make sure before I do this. The running boards are fiberglass and painted.
frank in Colorado.....brrrr it's cold.........

From Bodyman Dave:
RE: rubber running board
If you are using thin flexable rubber mat the 3M company makes an aerosal glue, Super Trim Adhesive. Available at local Parts and paint stores. Make sure ya get the Super Trim adhesive. They also make a general trim adhesive and the cans are nearly identical. Here,s a link to the glue at the Auto Body Tool Mart.

Thanks for all the great replys.