multiple choice rust fix Q with no wrong answers

[idrivejunk]

They say ask half a dozen bodymen the same question, get six different valid answers. I am one with six and have a task ahead that I don't want to dilly dally on deciding which method to use. Premeditated is best.

Which of these most closely resembles a modern-engined "nice driver" repair that you might make yourself? Feel free to say why or suggest another approach, this is just mind fodder and of course I will just decide by instinct on the day of.

But I do have a favorite. Can you guess it? Pic is self explanatory. Don't stare too long if it hurts your head.

   

[WZ JUNK]

Nice drawings.  I am no help with the decision as all the information looks good to me.  I go by the thought that "The simplest solution is the best solution" on things like this.

[kb426]

I have no idea. I would have to look at it in person and think about it for a couple of days to try and avoid the wrong decision. Every time I have tried to do a shortcut, it has come back to get me. If the seam is absolutely solid and you can work above it with hammer and dollie, a butt weld might be the best. Filling rust holes has been temporary stop gap for me. I have watched you cut back to good metal many times so that makes me think that is the most reliable repair. If there is a budget involved, that might not be an option. Once again, I'm of no help. LOL.

[chimp koose]

I think B would be the best way . The last 3 look like you could have a challenge lining things up . B might not be the quickest but if the plug welds get funky on the last 3 methods you might spend as much time getting them to work as method B . I am not a body man so take it for what its worth

[enjenjo]

B is the correct repair. C is overkill. but a combination of D on the bottom  and B on top is good too. A clamp on style spot welder would be nice for this job.

[idrivejunk]

I think B is most expensive and E is cheapest.

[chimp koose]

c thru f would leave the plug welds bearing all the weight of the panel . I would wonder if you would start to see puckers at all the plug welds over time .

[idrivejunk]

True ^^^.

Vehicles off the top of my head that I have worked on which have spot welds on exterior panel faces: Jeep, Karmann Ghia, FJ40,  Datsun Fairlady, oh... and 47 and 51 Ford trucks, 67-72 GM trucks. They show, sure. If not covered with filler. 

[idrivejunk]

I knew there was another one in me, just took a half hour of 455 to birth it. 

It is more of a quiz bonus question and has an answer. I am unsure what method I will end up with but it will boil out soon enough and all your thoughts are helpful

Why not do this?

[jaybee]

I think B is the way to go. There are a lot of ways for the others to go wrong. Uneven appearance, having the joints walk over time, the unoriginal work showing up due to visibility of an edge rather than turning a flange inward, difficulty lining up the parts and keeping them lined up as you weld it all up...probably some other stuff as well.

[idrivejunk]

Strength is a factor which bears consideration. None of the ways shown approach the same rigidity as stock and I suspect the foldover exists for that purppse.

[idrivejunk]

Had a closer look.

It will probably just get visible holes welded up.

Front of roof and inner panel there had pretty severe rust throughs and on the roof skin face I just welded up some holes out beyond the patches. Diligently.

No point in making one repair better than the other on the same part.

I am just substituting for the actual builder, but he suggested welding the two or three holes that show then just stuffing seam sealer in it. No point in making the cab better than the rest of the truck.

Customers don't wish to purchase anyone's best work. Done trumps perfect every time.