48 chevy truck

[kb426]

I'm looking at options for this project. Is there an inexpensive front suspension that is readily available for this? Has anyone seen someone use the frame from a 2 ton truck and turn it into a 1/2 ton before? Any thoughts on what you would do?

[WZ JUNK]

I feel that there are a lot of the original frames available and it would be much easier to modify the original 1/2 ton frame than to work with one of the large truck frames.

[jaybee]

I can't answer your question about the frame. As far as inexpensive front suspension is concerned, a Crown Vic front crossmember is about 6" too wide...so that's not a good option. How about a Welder Series MII crossmember? They come in different widths and they're pretty inexpensive. https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Mustang-II-Crossmember-Kit-for-Coil-Springs-p51209443

Now, how about something out of left field? A Fox body Mustang has just the track width you're looking for. Tubular K member kits for them are available in a lot of variations. You might have to cut the frame mounts lower to get the ride height you want, but maybe it's close since your frame runs high enough for clearance on a solid axle. Or build a C notch high enough and long enough to bolt the K member in place. https://www.uprproducts.com/79-95-mustang-tubular-mild-steel-k-member/

Strut mounts would need to be fabbed, but engine and rack mounts are on the K member. Stock control arms would place the springs under the frame, or use coilovers. Stock dimensioned springs can be had from 400lbs/in to over 1,000. https://theinfamousproject.com/mustang-oe-aftermarket-spring-rates-comparison-chart-everything-you-need-to-know/

[enjenjo]

Ford Aerostar van. First cousin to a Fox Mustang but no struts. Power rack and pinion on most of them.

The 2 1/2 ton frame is straight front to rear, and will need a C notch in the rear to set right lowered. If it was me, I would section about 2" out of the frame from just ahead of the rear axle to the rear of the frame. Use 73 to 87 half ton rear springs and hangers, the frame is the same width, and mount the rear axle on top of the springs. To clear the bed sides the rear axle has to be about 61" wide to clear.

The front fenders on a 2 1/2 ton mount about 3" higher on the cab than the one ton on down, and the hood is thinner by the same amount.

[jaybee]

Here's what that Aerostar setup looks like. I didn't realize they bolted in. https://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/Frames/buddy/aerosusp.html

[chris spokes]

my brother has a 54 with a jag front in it

[kb426]

I am aware of the aerostar conversion. I made some calls and have confirmed that there are no jags or aerostars anywhere close to me. The local salvage yards have scrapped all of the older parts. I think this maybe a wait to see what appears before anything else happens. I've looked for months for a donor car and nothing has come up. Most of the adds are from dealers with close to new vehicles. Time is on my side on this one. Thank you for the comments.

[jaybee]

Here's another version of K-member which retrofits the Fox body or SN95 suspension bits to a 1964-1970 Mustang. As a result it's made to bolt onto frame rails located much lower than a Fox. It can take anything stock or tubular control arms but does require a coilover strut as opposed to the separate coil spring of a Fox or SN95. And it comes in a version with LS motor mounts to put a GM engine in that Chevy. https://www.cjponyparts.com/aje-suspension-tubular-k-member-mustang-1965-1970/p/KM20/

[kb426]

I have disassembled the truck. The cab is on the cart and parts are all over the yard. I have purchased a 91 corvette front suspension with the factory crossmember. When it gets here, I will see if the crossmember can be used. I'm leaning towards using the 2015 mustang irs that I have. I think I will build another chassis from scratch. This maybe a fenderless  hot rod. ?

[GPster]

I remember someone talking about turning one into a roadster pick-up but I think the cab is too wide to be un-fendered. Maybe if you narrowed the cab the width of the cowl vent ( 11" )it would still be wide enough for two people and the windshield wouldn't be so much in line with the front tires. Narrowing the cab in the center would make it easy to narrow the hood at it's center line and the sides of the hood would still fit the cowl. GPster

[kb426]

I spent the morning doing hammer and dollie work on the front sheet metal. A little plastic will be all it needs. The upper grille bar was almost flat when I started. It's a usable part know.

[WZ JUNK]

I think you could proportion it correctly so that it has the look of a T bucket or roadster pickup.  If you upscale the tire/wheels and keep everything in proportion.  I have had plans to build one of these for years and I have some of the parts.  I need some time.

[kb426]

A light day for me. I removed the glass from the cab. I used a razor knife and a hammer to cut the rubber moldings.

[chimp koose]

That truck looks pretty solid . Very little rust . Waiting to see what you do on this one .

[kb426]

This was not the most productive day for O&S. I was going to repair the left side cowl panel and weld the vent door closed. I got the panel straightened all right but when I went to grind some areas to weld, I found lead. Lots of it. 1/4" thick. I did the repair and ground down the welds. I've had an hour to reflect and I'm going to cut the panel off and put a repro on it. I hope the repro is close. I don't have a long term plan but I want it to be as good as I can do it. When I found the lead, in retrospect, I should have quit. I kept working thinking I could make it better. I'm pretty sure the lead was done at the factory. The last pic is of the 48 chevy rear cab mount. I couldn't figure out how it was bolted on. After cutting the small panel at the rear of the cab open, I found out that the bolts that go through the frame were missing. The cab was sitting on the 2 rubber bumpers on the rear.