48 chevy truck

[idrivejunk]

Door gap fix job looks fine. 

To be clear about the above post, I mean go with a smooth B pillar face to mount the striker on, and position the latch aft of original location sufficiently for window channel clearance plus inboard as far as possible. Just my take on that.

Also my take on stubborn screws in pic. It only failed on a 69 Mustang so far. All about feathering the trigger. The handheld hammer beat kind has a much lesser success rate.

[kb426]

Matt, I did look at the others on the market. I'm modifying the striker plates. By this evening I should have a finished unit.

[idrivejunk]

I have faith. 

[kb426]

Matt, I appreciate that.
O&S will start by saying the left side will be slightly different from the right. It seems that hindsight is the better sight I have these days. I'm going to start with complications. The latch was slightly too thick to clear the window channel. If you mounted it towards the inside of the door, the release lever wouldn't clear the window apparatus. I aligned this up to be close to the original latching points. The release handle is hitting the top of the latch assembly because of the radius of the door. (I didn't find that one out until I had everything else in place) LOL. The release lever on the latch is too close to everything to use the quick release ball joints I have used in the past. Is that enough? I started out this morning with .125" thick metal to mount the latch to on the side of the door. I used countersink fasteners and thought it would work. When I installed all 4 fasteners, they hit the door jamb. I made another plate from 18 gauge. That was better until you put all of the fasteners in. That's when I made the decision to redo the striker plate. I bent the ends of the replacement enough to give clearance to allow the fasteners and the washer on the stud to clear. After welding that to the striker plate, I removed the original that I had welded in. I had some 16 gauge metal that became the last plate to attach the latch to. It was galvanized underneath powder coating so it had to be stripped. After everything cleared, I welded the latch plate in. That means that once again, the latch is the 1st item to be installed in the door. LOL. That's one of the items I will see if I can arrive at a better solution on the left side. I will need to fabricate a link to run from the door handle to the latch. There is the inside door apparatus to be resolved, also.

[WZ JUNK]

sweet

[idrivejunk]

^^^
X2

[chimp koose]

Deuce door handles ?  I will use mini bear claws in the T coupe if I ever get the doors to fit . I have test fit them and they 'just' fit between the door edge and window channel . I will probably be using deuce door handles because they lock and they look better than the A ones that lock . Cant get locking T handles and the bear claw goes in right where the stock T door lock lives . Only way I can use T handles is without the lock so no go . I will likely be using the stock interior door handles but it has been so long since I looked that I cant remember how I was going to do that.

[kb426]

O&S spent more hours on door latch hardware. I have used quick release rod ends in the past. There wasn't enough space for that on this build. The door handle shaft didn't quite clear the latch. I trimmed the latch and found the arm was too thick to clear the back of the door where the panel was doubled. I got creative and removed part of that panel on the inside of the door. I had some 3/16" rod left over from another project. I put the rod in the mill and drilled .090" holes in it in several locations. I had 1" x .125" strap left over from a trailer job that I cut a short piece to attach the small pieces of shaft to. I drilled a hole through the strap and inserted the shafts and then flush welded them on the backside. One of the pics will show a pin in the shaft to hold the shaft in the levers on the handle and latch. I drilled the remaining hole for the door handle and welded up the enlarged portion of the 1st hole that was left exposed by the handle base. I moved over to the left door. I wasn't happy with the way the hinges looked or fit. I removed the door and machined the holes on the hinges to move the door farther to the outside. I flattened the hinge flanges so the don't look quite so bad. The door didn't close all of the way without hitting something. I spent way to long trying to find where the restriction was. I ended up using a board and bending the door in the hinge area like we used to do 50 years ago. The last pic is of the door in a natural hang. I made a short video of the operation of the right latch. It is on my youtube channel: kb450div4

[kb426]

O&S says: 2nd verse, same as the 1st. I don't have the inside linkage done yet but the largest part is completed.

[kb426]

O&S finished the outside door latch on the left side. I'm still thinking about the inside door handle connection. I fabbed a simple bracket for the steering shaft support rod end. After welding it to the chassis, I cut of a length of the 48 chevy steering shaft from the column. The newer versions are 3/4" diameter. This was 13/16". I machined one end for 3/4" and the other for 3/4" double d. The pic shows extra length to be trimmed for the final column fit.

[kb426]

O&S spent some time freeing up the inside door operators. One has a broken spring. After thinking, I think cables are what I need to make the inside work well. I made an air cleaner from aluminum and a standard round filter. It clears the line that hood sides should follow. I think it will need a brace run to either a valve cover bolt or something around the alternator mount. Too much mass for just the rubber hose. I think I will paint the cover to match the engine. I took the da sander and did a little work on the inside to see what will need to be blasted and what will clean up. I removed the rest of the weatherstripping from the doors and cleaned up some small parts.

[kb426]

O&S cleaned up some of the stainless on the dash. Some is ok, some not. I moved on to working on removing paint. I removed the trim rings around the door windows and cleaned that area up and hammered a dent on the right side. I priced some seat material this morning. It takes time to call and ask.

[jaybee]

The frame you built gets the job done. It looks enough like you've channeled the cab over the frame I went back to check earlier in the thread just to be sure. I'm starting to like this one better than the last one you did, because it's going to be a lot sportier.

[idrivejunk]

Nice side draft pizza pan. Needs this on it-

It IS tight inside them hokey-era no-jamb-overlap doors, thats for sure. Good function is no picnic and having a key lock adds the extra coat of hassle.

Keep mowing down puzzles 

[kb426]

O&S spent a little time looking at options for the lower panel under the hood sides. Then it was back to removing paint. The easy part is completed.