Hydraulic rocker arm issues

[Beck]

I need to get cranking cylinder pressure with the throttle open for the cam grinder. My previous pressure was with the throttle closed. I didn't know that it mattered??

It seems I am having hydraulic lifter issues now. When I take the slack out of the pushrod and give my adjustable rocker arm nuts 1/2 turn the valves are opening. It appears the lifters are collapsed. I have primed the oil pump, have 65 psi oil pressure, and have oil to all but 1 rocker arm. I guess I need another new set of lifters. These have never been ran, but have considerable starter cranking on them. I'm guessing I had them to tight and hammered them to death?

Anyone have any thoughts?

[kb426]

No thoughts about the lifters but cranking compression tests have been run with wide open throttle for as long as I can remember. That way there is no restriction on air flow. Every race engine I have had had some form of solid lifters. If you can see the lifters when adjusting them and tell when you start to depress the plunger, that would be my benchmark for adjustment. If the plunger isn't against the snap ring under no load, I'd be ready to take them out and see if something has happened to them.

[Beck]

I was dreading pulling the side cover off of the motor to access the lifters. All the EFI wiring is there and the intake manifold is in the way. I gotta' do it. That will be my morning job. As you said I have to see if the plunger is down. I don't remember what brand they are, but not a big name one. I may have another new set of similar lesser name brand ones out there. It is probably time to buy a better set. I need 8 but they are often cheaper is sets of 16 for the SBF.

[jaybee]

I see elsewhere there'd an epidemic of bad lifters out there. Some have declared it to be the result of rebuilt lifters, which aren't necessarily labeled as such. They grind the bottom of the lifter to reestablish the correct end profile and in some cases hone the inside of the lifter before reassembly. When they're put back together there's excessive clearance between the plunger and the lifter body, resulting in uncontrolled leakdown. Another result of this can be wiped out cams.

I can't vouch for it, but those who are telling this story say no one is making flat tappet hydraulic lifters from all new parts for many engine families.

[Beck]

My lifters were the other way. It seemed they didn't want to bleed down or the plunger was stuck inside.
I think I finally have them adjusted, at least to the point to start up and adjusting while running.
I adjusted them a little light. I took up the lash and added 1/4 turn.

[chimp koose]

When I adjust hydraulic lifters I will put a cyl on the start of power stroke ( rotor pointing to that plug ) and set both .Then rotate to the next cyl in the firing order. I just snug the rocker down while spinning the pushrod between my fingers . as soon as I feel the pushrod start to resist spinning I turn it down another 1/4 turn . Once the motor is fired up I will run the valves again , 1/4 turn past zero clearance .I have tried the other method where you skip around and do intake when exh is open and vice versa but I find it too confusing without having a marker to remind me which ones I have already done.

[Beck]

chimp koose - That is exactly what I did. Being a 4 cylinder it is much easier. I have my balancer marked at TDC and BDC. 1 & 4 at TDC and 2 & 3 at BDC. I have a cam position trigger that I can easily see so I can see when #1 is on top. Then just follow the firing order and adjust every 180 deg.

[chimp koose]

In my opinion it is the easiest way to do it without forgetting which ones to lash when , or forgetting which ones you have already done . Even with a BIG duration cam and a non degreed balancer this method will get it done .