Power steering kit for F100

[416Ford]

Purchased a kit for Vickie's Truck last winter and we still haven't been able to get functioning properly. I have the second box off the truck now and the second pump on the truck, The vendor sends new parts but has not solved the issues. the steering get bind spots. Some times the power steering will work great other times it squeals and binds up.
If i raise the trucks front end it is great, any weight on the tires and we are done.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/111738603121?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=111738603121&targetid=1068258543489&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9017428&poi=&campaignid=11614527734&mkgroupid=111536105245&rlsatarget=pla-1068258543489&abcId=9300457&merchantid=115330923&gclid=CjwKCAiAmrOBBhA0EiwArn3mfCm4kqEm1R6uxNDjHrQXxlNw1cNhxetmUdc3eq-uAdWYqWorjZlh1hoCkHkQAvD_BwE
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[enjenjo]

Any identifying marks on the steering box? What kind of shape are the king pins in? Does this happen at all with the drag link disconnected? What size is the input spline on the steering box? At first glance this looks like some model of Toyota box.

[enjenjo]

like this

[416Ford]

All the steering parts are new.
The only marking on the box is the Rd.

Does this happen at all with the drag link disconnected?   Not sure, I did not try it without the drag link attached. It turns smoothly with the wheels off the ground.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/yQSSozoBmY4HR9YZ6

[enjenjo]

I am about 95 percent sure that is a Toyota box, or made by the same company that Makes Toyota boxes. If it turns smoothly with the wheels off the ground, and you have had the same problem with two boxes, I think it may be a problem with the king pins. I have owned Ford trucks of that era and for the most part they steered pretty easy unless the king pins were bound up, even with manual steering.

I have installed several Toyota boxes in Ford and Chevrolet trucks, some with kits, and some with mounts and Pittman arms I made. I even had a 52 that I installed a GM 800 series box with cross steer.

[416Ford]

How do I narrow down the issue? The prior owner installed the new king pins.

[kb426]

If the steering wasn't difficult before the swap and you can manually turn the wheel with the wheels in the air with the engine shot off, I wouldn't think the king pins are too tight. I rebuilt a forklift decades ago that turned correctly when in the air. On the ground, it was bad. Turned out to be a bad pump. Not saying your pump is bad but incorrect pressure would be what I check. Pressure gauge in the input line might be a good diagnostic tool. I had a friend that did a toyota box conversion years ago with a saginaw pump and I remember him having to put a pressure reducing valve in it. I don't remember if the steering was too sensitive or some other problem.

[416Ford]

Steering was a bear before adding the power steer. Looks like Mac's carries the kit but doesn't offer the ream. Seams like a tool they would offer with the kit.

[kb426]

Unhook one tie rod and see how much effort it takes to move the spindle. If the bushings are too tight, they may be galled to the spindle and require replacement. I know that not everybody likes them but I have used the needle bearing replacements in 2 trucks. If they make them for your truck, I would consider using them. My exp. with a spindle is when the tie rod is unhooked, it should be loose enough to fall towards the rear of the vehicle on it's own when in the air.

[416Ford]

Are you referring to the link from the box to the spindle? If so I just replaced that one last month as part of the trouble shooting process.
The 64 is a one year only for a lot of the parts. Have you been using the NAPA king pins or the Mac's Auto pins?

[kb426]

Isn't the tie rod the only thing that hooks to the spindle on the right hand side? On the left hand side do you have the pittman arm from the gear box as well as the tie rod going to the right side? If the right hand side was easier, that's the one I would disconnect. If that spindle moves freely, then I'd check the left also. The king pin style that I was referring to are these: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Deluxe-1937-41-Ford-Spindle-King-Pin-Set,8329.html

I did a quick search and came up with zero results for your truck. I did find this set of instructions for a chevy. Most of it applies to any king pin replacement so if you have questions, it might be useful: https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/kingpin.pdf

[chimp koose]

It may be cheaper for you to drive your bushings in and take them to an engine shop to use a rod resizing machine to hone the pair of spindle bushings to fit the pin . The biggest problem is reaming the 2 bushings concentric with each other . If you don't have the proper adapter to center one bushing with the other you could have a pin that binds even though the fit is nice in each of the bushings.You will likely spend more on the reamer than an engine shop would charge to do the honing . With a pin hone they are both done at the same time and concentric.

[kb426]

What C.K. said is how I do them.

[416Ford]

Ok, thanks for the info on the reaming the spindles, When i did them on the vettes we didn't have to ream them. I agree that the engine shop would be the best way to do it.
KB i was thinking of the left side when you said " it should be loose enough to fall towards the rear of the vehicle on it's own when in the air."
I will take it apart tomorrow night and get started.
Checking them to see if they are tight first of coarse.

[kb426]

The last pair of spindles I took to the machine shop needed one pass to clean the burrs and there were almost loose. If the operator is used to setting the hone up for quite a bit of tension, it could be too much. Exercise caution.