1951 F16

[kb426]

O&S was in low gear again today. After cutting it in two, I spent hours checking my measurements. I had 4 pieces of rectangle tubing clamped to the outer portions and some 3/8" strap clamped to the center to line it up. I still need to remove the existing engine mounts and clean up everything and reassemble. I need to decide if I want to use the stock coilovers or spend the money for something like Ridetech units. That's about an $800 decision.

[enjenjo]

Frank, I meant just to replace the motor. I have the Newport system in the F1.

I could not find a retrofit motor for it when I had mine. Today with the internet you might find one. The problem is the motor drives out of both ends, and the blades travel opposite each other. With the vacuum setup the blades both travel the same way at the same time. So the left wiper transmission is in a different position.

Newport does make one for the electric motor.  https://newportwipers.com/product/1951-52-ford-truck-replaces-factory-electric-wiper-motor/#wiper-motor

[idrivejunk]

Thats a pretty nifty welding capability there, opened up your rodding options nicely.

I wanted to point you at these stale leftover images in case theres something in them for you. And I had an idea... but about chrome.










Not trying to make work for you by putting links, its that the pics may be too big so I didn't put img codes around them.

My chrome thought is this, in case plating brand new sheetmetal items could be affordable for unique Cameo-esque wow factor. Patch frame openings in valance. Slice front fender front bottoms and valance off, even with where a bumper would ride. Just below the forward step in fender leading edge.

Merge what was lopped off into one piece and add flange at top of part. Chrome that and hang it under the re-flanged cut valance and fender edges with some of that top flat showing. Voila, wraparound one piece chrome "bumper". Or face bar.

Same out back, fender bottoms behind wheel merge with roll pan. Chromed sassy fat looking and a good spot for trick integrated exhaust exits.

Now nip off the outside edge of your running boards and rip some square or round tubing to occupy it's space. Chrome the outside face. Or maybe stainless angle there. To visually complete the ring of chrome dressing like them mirrors at a shoe store.

Whatever, I dunno. Idea is now dumped on your plate and if you'd rather the dog ate that one theres no need to be sneaky.

Don't forget to throw in the gate fins with the Rancheroey lights thing:


Heres that playground image F1 pic edit blog page for a cold windy day.

http://chevroldsmobuiac.blogspot.com/2020/09/51-f-1-50-art.html?m=1

     

[kb426]

O&S finished the crossmember today. I've watched some other's cut off the motor stands and weld flat plate on the holes or just leave them. I decided to remove the stalks from the mount plates and weld them back on. I can't imagine I'll be able to use them for anything other than running wires through them but it will make people wonder if they can see them. I used the spray can overhaul on the ugly a arms and gave everything a bath before I started. The next item is to narrow the sway bar. After that is completed, this will get reassembled.
I went searching for a little info on narrowing a sway bar and found a post back in 2007 by 348 tripower and a comment by Phatrat. After reading that, I'm just going to weld the unit.

[kb426]

O&S broke a sweat this afternoon. The sway bar has been shortened and welded back together. The front end is back together except for brakes and a good rack and pinion. The ebay claim has begun. On top of the rusted lines, the right side swivel joint is wore out. It did allow me to confirm all my measurements before starting on this project.

[kb426]

I'm going to share some of my goals on this build as compared to the white truck. The white truck is reliable, goes around corners very well, makes almost 20 mpg. and is very good as a road burner. On my list of changes:
1: 2 inches lower ride height while maintaining 6" of travel at the spindle for suspension travel.
2: Way less wiring to deal with. I have learned from the last couple of projects how to thin the wiring and not lose capabilities.
3: More horsepower. The 4.6 is around 250hp. The truck will run 90 in a quarter. I want at least 400hp.
4: Independent suspension front and rear with healthy sway bars on both ends.
5: Healthy exhaust at idle but quiet without drone at highway speeds.
6: More fuel mileage. Maybe not an option without an LS engine.
7: No more fat engines. That leaves the SBF and the LS as options.
8: No more white. White is great in many ways but hot rods are supposed to be striking and leave you with a smile on your face when looking at them.
I know many will think that a redo makes more sense and it might. I don't like redos. I did that on the 32 and I'd rather start over. A redo means I failed in some  ways and another build is a fresh start.
What do you guys think about this? Be honest.

[jaybee]

I think those are all reasonable goals and it sounds like a truck I'd love to drive.

[chimp koose]

I think you are right about the white , metalflake hardly shows up in white . LS sounds like the easiest route to 400hp. rebuilding the other white truck would be cutting up a lot of good work just for a new idea . maybe better to let a new owner enjoy it as is and use the cash for phase II. I never have a problem with having to choose about a re do as I have enough of a problem finishing the first time :oops:

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Seems reasonable goals..

400 hp at crank or rear wheels?  Narrower engine is good choice

Wires still scare me.  Less is more better.

My 1962 Falcon 6 cylinder car ran near 90 mph in the quarter mile. Lighter car , less brick shape to push thru the air.

More MPG : careful on engine parts choice, will work well, produce good power.

proper metal flake alignment in the paint will help aerodynamics (its gotta, I swear).  

Automatic transmittin or manual?  I prefer 4L80E for durability over the 4L60E unit.  OEM 4L80 converter is heavy, lighter smaller aftermarket converter is $$$

[chimp koose]

Hastily done metalflake jobs typically leave a surface similar to a golf ball. Golf balls tend to fly pretty far , something about boundary layer aerodynamics , so yes ,  definitely , you should see an increase in fuel economy with the metalflake ! I wonder why the manufacturers have not caught on yet? Likely something to do with the random orientation of the flakes causing radio interference , or errant readings on emission control sensors

[kb426]

Tony, 400 at the crank. 1st choice is manual. I have a t5 that I purchased 2 years ago because you couldn't find them easily anymore. My engine goal would have way more than 300 lbs. ft. of torque. I like the look of the newest Tremec but haven't decided how much money I want to spend on this project.
I wonder, is it possible for people who are around metalflake to become "flakey" on their own?

[idrivejunk]

Voting yes to #8

Drive whatever wrecked late model Mustang or Camaro meets your specs and is at the auction the day you go under it and don't build it as body on frame. Just bed on body. Sounds like a job for a boosted six or so, and that many gears couldn't hurt. You'll need some boat speakers near the tailpipes for that nasty idle.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

I wonder, is it possible for people who are around metalflake to become "flakey" on their own?

yes is the answer for that.

[enjenjo]

For a small block ford. The best T5 is rated for 310 ft.lb. of Torque.  T45 is not a whole lot better.  The T3650 is good for the torque and reasonably priced. There are several adapters for a SBF to the T56, but the adapters are in the $700 range.

Overdrive automatics, the 4R70W from a 99 Explorer V6 will bolt to a W series V8 but needs to be beefed up internally to V8 specs, and needs a stand alone controller.

For the engine a 408 stroker W motor can be had for about $3500 built up, or much less if you buy a stroker kit for a 351 and do it yourself. The later 351W came with roller cams and EFI.

If you want to change makes, there are several engines that will make 400 hp with little modification, but most of them will still need a T56 to hold up.

[kb426]

My 32 had a 3550. The 51 has a 3650. They both are rated at 350 ft. lbs. I did some looking this afternoon. There were several places that sell a roller 408 short block for 3 grand plus shipping. A good set of heads is around $1800. By the time you get valve gear and a camshaft, you will have another $600. That leaves a front cover, oil pan and pump, balancer, intake manifold, distributor  and front accessory drive. There are long blocks out there that might be a better buy. We all know about small parts adding up. I can buy a used ls for less money but it will be used. If you get a rebuilt unit, they get up above the 408. The electronics for the auto trans are a little bit spendy. I'd much rather have a manual but that might not be a good option when all the numbers are added up. My original estimate for an engine and trans was 12 grand. I don't know that I want to spend that much for that part of the build. I've been successful finding donors and engines in the past that weren't near as expensive. They aren't as easy to find right now in my part of the world.