1951 F16

[WZ JUNK]

Your process and finished work is much better than mine.  I usually cut with torch, rough shape with a hand held grinder and finish with a hand file.  Poor people have poor ways.  Most tings I make have to be "adjusted" in order for them to fit and work.

I really think you have earned some time off.

[kb426]

WZ Junk, I've seen your work and it's very good. Thank you for the compliment.
O&S plodded along and went until TB set in. The 1st motor mount adapter I made was narrow and had a 90 degree edge on one side. I decided that that might be less than it could be. The 2nd version has flanges on both sides of the actual mount. I did find out that my 20 ton press wouldn't do a complete 90 degree bend on 8" of 3/16" plate before the jack bypassed. I have the engine and trans in the chassis and lined up pretty close. I was about to tack in the trans mount when my feet told me it was time to quit. When I was taking pics, the offset on the trans mount looked incorrect. I measured twice and double checked my calculations twice. The 7/8" offset looks excessive. I did do some yard work this morning so I don't have a complete day in my lack of progress. LOL.

[416Ford]

I did do some yard work this morning so I don't have a complete day in my lack of progress. LOL.

Slacker    

[kb426]

O&S stayed after it today. It was almost 5 pm when I rolled up the cords and cleaned the shop up some. This may be one of the more unusual engine mounts you've seen. The plan was to tie the 2 frame rails together with the engine mount crossmember. The engine mounts are Dodge pickup slant 6 parts that the cobra kit car guys use. The steering shaft will be a problem on some level. Plenty of compromises.

[WZ JUNK]

I like the mounts.  Everything looks clean.  The simplest solution is always the best.

I have used a steering universal from an Astro van in the past.  Other mini vans might have similar joints.  They are designed to work at greater angles than the Borgeson style joints.  If you think about it the driver in these style of vehicles sits nearly over the top of the rack and pinion.

[kb426]

Thank you. I used one of those in the 32. I had read about it being an inexpensive solution to the problem. The salvage yards around here have smashed all the older units. Finding anything with age is tough.

[kb426]

O&S is back at it. The fuel tank is assembled and the top mount is welded in. More thinking needed for the strap attachment on the other end.

[kb426]

O&S put in half a day today. The pics are some belting spacers that go on the cab mounts, the 2nd bell housing register spacer from new material that I believe is the proper thickness to let this work, a poor pic of the end of the tank strap that I doubled up and welded the doubler to the original and the straps fastened to the rear frame rail. I will probably add a nut under the frame rail and weld it to the rail. I'm not comfortable with coarse threads in 3/16" material.

[kb426]

O&S was slow and steady today. The pics are of the additional nut welded to the frame for the tank strap, a shot of the bellhousing shim wrapped around the trans hub, using the mill to start the tap, the amount of plug that was drilled for the new holes and the finished project from the flywheel side. The 22 gauge metal was perfect. It's very snug in fit. The plugs for the existing 2 holes were made from 1/2" alum rod. I turned the od to .473 and threaded the rod. I used loctite on the threads when I installed them in the bell housing. I cut off the extra and used the mill to face them down. The 4 bolts fit perfect. I have several hours in the layout and machining. For those that may not know, I converted a t5 bellhousing to a tko - tkx.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Kool stuff.  I've been following along.  Look like different shoes?  

[kb426]

O&S did more thinking than working today. I have a pair of new 2010 Mustang gt mufflers that I have saved. They won't fit. Too wide, too fat, etc. I have a new clutch cable that I bought for a spare on the white 51. I took it out of the package and went to install it to check for clearance. It's the wrong one. The clutch end is double the length it should be. I have no idea what year it might fit. I researched mufflers for a while and don't like what I find. I want a healthy idle and quiet going down the road. I won't say it's impossible but nothing I looked at will do that. I'd rather be quiet than loud so I'm going to order something similar to what's on the white truck. There are space considerations also. I cut and welded the 90 degree extensions on to the header adapters. I got started on one side for the pipe headed towards the rear. I'm doing a swan's neck over the trans crossmember and then using tight angles to level it out for the muffler connection. I will need tight bends for the tail pipes. If I ran them under the trans crossmember, they would be straight and simple. You know that the trans will have to come out someday. Removing the exhaust to do that doesn't sound like good engineering to me.

[kb426]

O&S woke up with a mindset to redo yesterday's start on the exhaust pipes. The more I had thought about the swan's neck approach, the less I liked it. I used up the rest of my Speedway bends. I should have ordered more. I made brackets for the rear brakelines. One side is longer than the other so the bracket is welded on the other side of the frame rail. I cut the alum. driveshaft that is leftover from the crown vic that I used for the blue 72. Tomorrow I will put the 4 jaw chuck on and see if I can get it all aligned properly. If not, it's off to a drive shaft shop for welding.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Looks good.  

[kb426]

O&S was about 60% successful today. I spent hours with the 4 jaw chuck machining the driveshaft end. 10 minutes machine time and the rest in set up and centering. The shaft was too long to do everything properly in my lathe. I jury rigged and had .004 total runout. I tacked it and checked, moved it and more tacks. I thought I had it in place. When I finished welding and checked it, it has .012" total runout. I don't think that is good enough. I will order a new driveshaft on monday. I can get a new unit for $9 more than the cost of welding and balancing the old unit. I am disappointed but not surprised. It was closer than my last attempt but for a high speed application, it will vibrate. About 4:30, the phone rang. It was the freight man. He was 30 minutes away and wanted to make sure I was there. He arrived and we unloaded the crate. The bed looks good. The top of the crate looked like shake shingles. That made it real easy to uncrate. I have both tabs for the front brakelines ready to weld on. There are a reverse of the rear units. It leaves the brake line running under the frame rail and on the outside so a wrench will be easy to use on it.

[kb426]

O&S got started with a realization that the front brake hose brackets weren't symmetrical. I wanted them facing the same direction. I fixed that and then put the tires on. Then I found that one side rubbed the tire at full lock. I had to bend the bracket to alleviate that  situation. Then I double checked measurements and cut the metal for the bed frame. Tonight's stopping point was the frame tacked together minus 2 cross pieces.