Ultimate Hot Rod

[kb426]

I've been thinking about this subject for some time. I want to improve on my past efforts and build what could be the last hot rod for me. This list is the mechanical parameters that I have composed. I'm asking for comments, good, bad or ugly. I have no answer for the vehicle base for this yet. That's more difficult for me than mechanics.

Ultimate hot rod mechanics

At least 12" rotors on front
hydroboost
rack and pinion steering
350 hp or more
overdrive
IFS with coilovers
Spindles that will take a 6.5" backspace wheel without going to 18" diameter wheels
Adequate cooling system with quiet electric fan
Vintage Air
Modern door latches
All controls and seating set for driver comfort on long days
Good sound control and thermal control in interior
Possible IRS such as 2015 and newer Mustang rear
Good electrics with relays for all high capacity circuits
EFI
In tank fuel pump.
At least 15 gal. fuel capacity
At least 20 mpg on highway
Engineered properly for ease of maintenance
Regular components for easy availability of replacement
Sway bars front and rear
Stiff frame to provide precise handling
Spare tire and jack, misc. tools storage space
Good audio system
Enough suspension travel to absorb serious bumps without harshness
Halogen headlights that work well
Modern glass seals to avoid air leaks
Modern engine without oil leaks and good durability

[Ohio Blue Tip]

That's just what I'm trying to get to with my 32.
May get close but no cigar!
Good luck.  

[chimp koose]

I guess that rules out a T bucket Late 40s ford coupe might be a good platform. 350 horse might not be too hard to find in a completely stock modern vehicle. You could probably tick almost everything off the list with a newer insurance write off vehicle. I would probably not use a mustang , right KB !

[WZ JUNK]

cup holder(seriously)

cruise control (sure makes a long trip easier)

I like the signals in the mirrors for safety and place the mirrors where you can actually see out of them.

Heated seats are cheap and easy to instal.  Not so much for the heat but to make your back feel better.

Tail lights that can be seen.

Newport windshield wipers

Fire extinguisher(inside the car)

Some kind of a compartment with a lid that you can store maps, important papers, ....



I like the mechanical design of this companies products, https://www.factoryfive.com/33-hot-rod/what-you-get-complete/. but not the body so much.  The kinda 33 coupe look with the 32 grille is interesting.  A friend built one of their Cobra's and he had limited skills, and tools.  His car preformed well and looked good.  I would never pay what they want for their kit, but I might be tempted to buy an unfinished one that someone gave up on.  They do handle well, even if they do not look so much like a true hot rod.

[UGLY OLDS]

Gee .......Your list looks like something Cadilliac would build.......Check the  Correct boxes & provide a check.......
 With luck you may get free oil changes.....    

Bob.....

[kb426]

John, very good points. Good mirrors, cruise control and the fire ext. are missing from the 51. To it's credit, the throttle pedal was put where I wanted it. The 900 mile trip home from Louisville was without pain. Bob, that's a valid point. I got curious so I went to the dictionary. The definition of hot rod is: an automobile rebuilt or modified for high speed and fast acceleration
We will probably agree in principle about that. John and I discussed this some time ago. We both agreed that an older smaller vehicle should be the basis for this. That tells something about our age group. 1940 and older tends to make a rod for me. However, when I started running the fuel car, the west coast guys all called them hot rods. Bob, I agree that it sounds like a Caddie. Is there any reason that a hot rod shouldn't do everything that a CTS-V can do with different aesthetics? When I was researching components for the 32, I asked a prominent builder what it would take to make one handle good. I was met with laughter. In retrospect, I see the high center of gravity and lack of substantial suspension being the factors that limit handling. One of the obstacles I see is the lack of suspension travel. You need some absorption of travel from rough spots before the vehicle becomes a projectile. 3 or 4" won't allow that to happen. I like low cool rides a lot. None of my stuff is real low because of driveability. I don't want to give up that factor. That makes this become an engineering exercise. Thanks for the comments.

[idrivejunk]

processing input  :-}

[jaybee]

I don't see why you shouldn't go for as much of that as possible. The better the car drives the more you're going to drive it...and isn't that the point?

[idrivejunk]

Keeping it to a single nutshell-full of personal guesses...

37-war coupe, any domestic. The FF idea is great, car just not big enough. Remove unisides (or cab sides) and underbody rails from modern wreck, quarter the floor, remove floor from coupe, insert modern floor quarters, trim or fill in. Use seats, pedals, column, shifter, cluster all pretty much as a unit. Mount to coupe frame or integrate body and frame. Detachable subframe(s) optional. Minimal but good pro cage. Then stuff the mill. Cake!

[chimp koose]

a friend of mine basically re bodied a dakota with a studebaker truck . Used the frame/driveline/firewall/dash all as a unit . plunked the stude on it and started driving . They drove it from Vancouver to my town , Saskatoon with no issues . Thats about a 20 hour trip each way.

[idrivejunk]

A guy wouldn't have to use a whole modern floor. I guess what I am trying to say is if you like how a CTS-V "sits", use the whole driver area section and retain as much of what you touch as possible to just plug in so you don't have to arrange your "cockpit" from scratch. I think it would make sense if the driver's area and powerplant were from a common donor.

[chimp koose]

Until you opened the hood or looked underneath , you would not know my friend had changed anything on his studebaker wrap job .

[UGLY OLDS]

Gee....I was just to be a smart guy....But a CTS does fit the bill......Remember......Hey....You build it & we will buy it.....
By golly.....they even fit through the car wash.  
:!:  :!:

[kb426]

I used the CTS-V as an example. If we move on to the actual vehicle, that is too large a base for any of the older platforms. The performance is what I'm after.

[idrivejunk]

Use Corvette for the example then. And a model A with bedded glass and bear claws. You mentioned spare and tools and storage and if you want small thats a conundrum. Looked at used FFs?

To me, "ultimate" means something different. For example I would want steel wheels because ultimate means it can keep fighting while badly injured. A getaway car. For escaping violent road ragers. 350 HP isn't much of a getaway car though. That brings up looks. To me, "ultimate" car is one that won't get a second glance from a trooper for going 20-30 over the limit, as is now par. Can't do that in an arrest me red hot rod. But if I turned the engine in my GTP sideways on a Camaro subframe, pulley it down, hook up a five speed and nine inch on leafs, no glance. Do you want the car as an admission ticket to rodder meets or do you want a car to drive?

Are we leaving trucks and Mustangs out? Do you really just want to build another chassis and don't know what to set on it? I'll stick with the discussion or drop it and leave you be, whichever you like but I can't really tell if this is a statement or question thread. :?