bj's anyone?

[tomslik]

need a little help now that i'm ALL cornfused, anybody know the correct taper for the ball joints and tie rod ends for a 68-74 nova/67-69 camaro?

idea is to order the correct taper reamer.

i'm thinking that if i re-taper the holes in the 80 malibu spindles, that'd make life easier down the road for the owner.

also, got a good outlet for such a critter?

[enjenjo]

Don't remember the taper, but speedway has them

[tomslik]

Don't remember the taper, but speedway has them

seen that but they say it fits 71-up camaro balljoints.
would they be the same taper?

[enjenjo]

Same taper, dut smaller. The reamer will work for either

[tomslik]

Same taper, dut smaller. The reamer will work for either

cool!
thanks fo duh info!

ah tink dis izza gonna woik!

[enjenjo]

KMA

[tomslik]

KMA

shall i hold the tongue?      

[enjenjo]

Tounge is fine, gives me a thrill :evil:

[KustomLincolnLady]

Tounge is fine, gives me a thrill :evil:

   :oops:

[purplepickup]

Ya notice since enjenjo has retired he's getting a little frisky?

And he uses a lot  more of these guys    

I like my job and wasn't thinking about retiring for a while but you make it sound pretty tempting Frank

[enjenjo]

   :evil:  :evil:  :evil:

[Bob Paulin]

I believe you will find that most GM and Ford stuff is 10° or 2-inches-per-foot while most Chrysler stuff is 7° or 1-1/2-inches -per-foot.

Check around with any oval-track supplier.

In just looking at a couple of catalogs, I found Stock Car Products to be a couple of dollars cheaper than Speedway.

Also, check with Manhattan Supply CO, (MSC), Enco, Travers, etc. - machine tool supply houses.

Take only the absolutely lightest cut necessary.

As the ball-joint seats further into the tapered hole, it DOES change front-end geometry and it affects the roll center - maybe not enough to feel on the average street driver, but on a race car it is critical, and can cause a car's transition from jewel to junk.


B.P.

[/b]

[tomslik]

I believe you will find that most GM and Ford stuff is 10° or 2-inches-per-foot while most Chrysler stuff is 7° or 1-1/2-inches -per-foot.

Check around with any oval-track supplier.

In just looking at a couple of catalogs, I found Stock Car Products to be a couple of dollars cheaper than Speedway.

Also, check with Manhattan Supply CO, (MSC), Enco, Travers, etc. - machine tool supply houses.

Take only the absolutely lightest cut necessary.

As the ball-joint seats further into the tapered hole, it DOES change front-end geometry and it affects the roll center - maybe not enough to feel on the average street driver, but on a race car it is critical, and can cause a car's transition from jewel to junk.


B.P.

[/b]

now,i don't know if you've been following what i'm doing but i'm adapting 80 malibu(metric) spindles and brakes on a 69 camaro sub that's been installed in a 41 packard.
the spindles themselves are  slightly taller than the camaros(less than an inch, more like less than 1/2")

that gonna bother me much?


and i don't suppose you'd know what that translates into morse taper, do ya?

[Bob Paulin]

now,i don't know if you've been following what i'm doing but i'm adapting 80 malibu(metric) spindles and brakes on a 69 camaro sub that's been installed in a 41 packard.
the spindles themselves are  slightly taller than the camaros(less than an inch, more like less than 1/2")

that gonna bother me much?

Basically, the longer spindle will place the upper control arm at a steeper angle, which will raise the front roll center on the car....That's good!!!

On a '41 Packard - with its "...much-higher-CoG-than-the-Camaro-for-which-the-roll-center-of-the-clip-was-originally-designed", it actually SHOULD help....ever so slightly, but headed in the right direction.

Take a second and read my most recent post on Chad's Race Car Build which deals with a roll center question he asked. I just finished explaining roll center/CoG relationship there........not 15 minutes ago.

You might even want to consider the upper ball joint I suggested to Chad to raise your roll center a bit more.

It should help keep those running boards from scraping the pavements in a hard turn...LOL!!!

CAUTION!  CAUTION! CAUTION!

Just be extremely careful to ascertain that the ball joint doesn't bind up at full control arm travel. We often have to "straighten-up" the ball joint a bit with shim washers between the inner two bolt holes and the control arm to keep it from "bottoming out" against the side of the socket in extreme upwards movement because each time you raise the end of the control arm at the ball joint - longer spindle, longer ball joint stud, etc. - you increase the ball joint angle.

On Dan's new car, I'm thinking of machining up a tapered plate to sit between the ball joint and the control arm.

That would look neat and "trick" on a street rod front end. Black control arm, black ball joint and an obviously tapered, polished aluminum plate sitting between the two - suggesting an extreme attention to detail.....don't you think?

Of course, on the race car, we will paing it all black, and cover it with a bit of grease to keep the tech guy's eyes off it.

and i don't suppose you'd know what that translates into morse taper, do ya?

I know that it doesn't.........Not even close!!!


According to Machinery's Handbook Morse tapers measure as follows.......

Morse taper # = inches-per-foot

0 = .62460
1 = .59858
2 = .59941
3 = .60235
4 = .62326
5 = .63151
6 = .62565
7 = .62400

Nothing even near an inch.....let alone 1.5 or 2 inches.

Most machine-tool drive tapers - such as Jarno and Brown & Sharpe - are in the half-inch-per-foot range.

Jacobs  1, 2, and 3 tapers are in the .975 range, but all the other Jacobs tapers are in the .500-.600 range.

B.P.

[tomslik]

bob, ya been a great help to me and i'm sure others.
i'm getting onehellofa education here and loving every second.

i've been following the other thread too,i'm not a stock car racer( more of a drag racer, so if ya know how to get some decent lift out of a MII, lemme know)) but a LOT of it crosses over.

so, i take it morse taper ain't what i want....