Model A job

Started by idrivejunk, July 25, 2018, 08:54:51 PM

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idrivejunk

Frank, its these-

https://www.rockyhinge.com/model-a-trunk-hinges.html

Lay it on me so I can dig it.

Seems pretty straightforward in the directions, the tabs at the small end will go onto the nearby tubing. The stated optimal distance for 90 degree opening is 3.5" from front of lid. Now I am anxious to know if our ideas are similar. I want to extend the front of the lid up to the bead but no takers. I also want to make the rear window panel not go up with the roof under the bead but stay flush with the lid curve and tuck tail lights in under the bead, all the way across. Sequential, even. ~:)

GPster, as Mike explained it to me, the right pivot point for a seatworthy angle (not hanging off back of car, but seat bottom over axle) would occupy space where the tire is. And if you move those inboard to skirt that issue, you end up with a skinny kid only seat width. I have protested but been shushed, as it was tough to deprive our hero of that wish but its done and I buy the explanation. Never give up, though!

CK, Roger that. Duly noted.

Catch you men on the flipside of 40 winks. :arrow:  Bonus  );b(  thumbup to the rhymin Simon expert.  :)  That tune was catchy when I was knee-high to a hubcap.
Matt

enjenjo

My idea was how to improve the original hinge, but the Rocky Hinge works too, and may be better.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

idrivejunk

You be the judge.  :wink:  These would wreck better for sure. :idea:

Found it! Heres a big troublemaker-















Thats as far as I got. Of course I had to hack up what I just put. :roll:  Don't mind at all, this is going to be nice. I want to reinforce the lid accordingly. For me, this is like walking on cake.

:-o

Variety pack-

Wreck I looked at today, 17 model, 16K and got it on both ends then a light offroading adventure. :roll:

I don't miss working on stuff with so much perfume in it you smell it at home.





Ready go home  :?



Ready go paint :?



Just  :?:  :arrow:



More of that-



The freshly 383 swapped brown round makes good noises-

Matt

idrivejunk

Matt

idrivejunk













I have the piece cut for the other side of the trunk latch vertical brace, but not bent. They will sit 5" apart and be boxed on the front and that will flange to the pan, then I'll make a permanent top piece. The upright rear flanges against the license area won't be welded to it, maybe bead of seam sealer'ed prior to installing the skin.  Then deal with the lid. Or Verse Vice-a. Sure could use whatever strut or other hold-open device is to be used, Clamps are old already and that puppy is a noggin-banger at open height.  :)
Matt

jaybee

This car is going to end up sturdy and solid like a late model.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

idrivejunk

Thanks. The outer skin just supported itself and in my mind, I am creating as minimal a structure as possible with the simplicity of tubing. My decision to not extend the trunk floor tubing past the frame is in consideration to safety. My original thought / sketch / rough-in connected the tail panel with tubing and one day it dawned on me why it wasn't setting right with me. I was bypassing crushable sheetmetal area that could collapse on impact and absorb energy rather that transmit it right up to the seat. :shock:

Given time, usually I arrive at something good. :)

I have sort of started doing hobby photo editing on Sunday afternoons. Today, theres a stumbling block on that and I think I'll address it on a dedicated thread.

Thanks for stopping in, all. 8)
Matt

enjenjo

You might look at these to hold the lid up  https://www.mcmaster.com/lid-supports  Figure the weight to have to support and the open and closed length and order what you need. You can use two different weight capacities if you need to, like a 15 lb on one side and a 20 lb on the other so they average out at about 17 lbs each.  If you get the location correct, they will not only hold the lid up, but they will help to keep it closed. If you need help figuring out lengths and strokes, let me know, ?I have used these on a couple cars.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

idrivejunk

Mike and Gary usually pick and get those much later in the project and I think they have a usual brand. Personally, I can't stand the look and don't care for the function. Too much like newer cars. No doubt about what you linked, though. What would my own solution be? Never had to think about it. Hmmm. If I could hide them, I'd like that better.
Matt

idrivejunk











This is just cobbled up to hold still. Its next  :arrow:

Matt

idrivejunk











67 Ford roof progress-



Painter seam sealed it since then. No pic (yet)



Fresh meat-





Matt

idrivejunk

Seal strip just like the others-



Clearance for that has to come from somewhere-











Yesterday's Bronco engine was on the ground by lunch-



But by 5 another one showed up-



Probably because these are about to be put-togethers -





New guy put one pan in the previously hacked fastback-



If you recall seeing this ex-nasty sedan delivery door in the background, you'll know why I think ol' Longhair is alright. Poor guy is about to start on the blompy roof (it goes "blomp" like a cow goes moo).

Matt

idrivejunk

Ground this side, whacked old hinge mounts-



Made this trunk front seal bed extension for the rear window patch-



That ^^^ pic shows the fabbed part's top flange behind the patch. The pic below shows it the other way around and trimmed just right as to be all but invisible under the overhang-



Carefully clamped with shim in groove and tacked all across, enough to hold for now. With 3/8" seal bed depth to match the rest, as with the 5/8" width protruding past the half inch overhang on the patch.



Have not messed with gap, I just screwed the window panel back on but this looks OK-



From inside, you see how easy it will be to tie that area to the structure and really firm things up-



Reinforcement and support for the lid ideas are moving now but you may see me move to another area of the vehicle as those develop.

I'll put some bonus peeks on another post.  :arrow:
Matt

idrivejunk

Matt

idrivejunk

Added the missing couple inches to the side strips and tacked all four corners. Use 1/4" nuts as seal substitute spacers. Tacked a scrap in to connect window panel to structure. Looks OK-



Laid the roof and lid skin on it-









Matt