59 Catalina

[chris spokes]

hey matt just a thought have you asked the chassis builder for input they may have a solution

the mothers 59chev wagon used a bench seat
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=Mother+1959+Sedan+Delivery&noj=1&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjk2qvYjIjZAhWIf7wKHanjBdQQsAQIKA&biw=1920&bih=930#imgrc=_

[enjenjo]

Matt, take a look at Jaguar XJS seats. The base of the seats are pretty thin top to bottom.

[UGLY OLDS]

He Guys .... Had a thought after banging my head..(Again..  :oops: )

Maybe we are trying to re-invent this  :?:  Are the current floor pans designed to fit the photo of the frame from page one  :?:  :?:  ....( Hint ..It has a big "X" in the middle & nothing on the outer sides ...)

roddingroundtable.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14168&start=0  

 It was just a thought ..... :?

Bob...

[idrivejunk]

Hey, thanks guys  

Chris, interesting pics at that link.  I made several observations. Gigantic trans tunnel for the same trans as ours. 60/40 split bench seat, I see. With the driver's tilted back. That was a thought I had also as a seat solution. If you look at their rear footwell area and tunnel you can see that the middle of the bench is crammed down over the driveshaft hump. That type seat would allow bracketry to get seat as close to floor as possible. And its also obviously a custom seat.

Frank, thanks again. I think the ones in my GTP are also. This car begs for oh, say 64 Impala SS buckets. Proportionally correct, used with an X frame, and with very flat stud plates on the floor for mounting at the inside. I know this because I replaced floors in one with buckets and console.

I don't mind telling you guys... Chris, yes I did ask about manufacturer's tips, and if examples exist. You see, research... in our arrangement... falls under the heading of boss work. Occasionally, I get asked to look and advise. But our strategy has the man closest to the customer do mouse and keyboard work. Because he has the big picture. I contribute what I can, to present realistic options backed by research when I make suggestions. So I stay busy with metal while he makes the calls. We have faith in one another to tend to questions asked in a timely manner. This is no different, but I had to dismiss seat thoughts until further input and do something else to balance the project's pace (I am proud to be ahead and prodding rather than the other way around).

Bob, the aftermarket front pans are made to fit over a stock frame like on page 1. I think maybe what I am running into here is that the desired ride height was established without a chassis in sight, just a couple wheels under a body on a lift. Turns out that requires a one inch body drop over the frame. I believe thats where it is now. We all know how much an inch of body height can do. Unfortunately, not having all the pricey components up front heaps a colossal mound of labor one one smart man's best guesses. Like where to estimate the coilovers will ride for example. If instead of the inch drop we now have with frsme and rockers level... we could have the body up an inch from where it is, and accomplish desired ride height via suspension... bam, this gets way way easier. Alas, boss is a painter, not a bodyman. But here we are, a solid ten years deep in busy. So I do as much as I can without questioning anyone. What I've done on this car is build components with easy adjustment in mind so alterations once the facts are all in are less painful.

Since you read all those words, you all deserve pictures. I worked on a Chevy today. Here are a couple dear Pontiac pics, one from last century with a tangent relative to the conversation.

[idrivejunk]

This pic illustrates a couple differences in the aftermarket frame... See how far down I had to take the places where pan welds to front body mount brackets? This frame rises just ahead of the X whereas the stocker was flat out to the mounts. Both old floor and new are sloped outward from the trans tunnel but the new is more so. Also note position of the the long silver sharpie line on one pan, in relation to the bead next to it. That shows how different this section of frame is shaped, much wider for headers. I may be able to eliminate those ugly steps I cut by building another brace which goes all the way across, tapered at the ends.

[idrivejunk]

I gotta undo some of that but now have worked out sturdy bracing to connect front body mount brackets and floor. Those steps are goners and pans will be flat there rather than having a dip. Pics at first opportunity and thanks for following along.

[idrivejunk]

Making the connection to front body mount stands. Its a work in progress. I intend to have a stock-like overlapped toe board seam go all the way across, hump and all. At the seat pan the panels butt and theres room on the brace for a row of plug welds on each.It is getting sturdier.



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[idrivejunk]

 That poor aftermarket pan section is finally scrap. The beads did not jive with anything underneath but I used it as a pattern and hatched this version. The vertical flange clears the frame. We need humps for pipes around the tailshaft, thats just how it is. This design will allow me to form a trans tunnel with vertical edge flanges that can sit over this then both flanges trimmed to set the height. Again, more plugs, less stitching. Thats the plan anyway.  I need more posterboard.

[UGLY OLDS]

Just remember Matt .....If it was easy, anyone could do it ......

Bob...

[idrivejunk]

I had forgot, thanks.  Things like this do require measuring twice AND cutting twice.  

Not much to show today. Did rust cleanup on the right front body mount box and marked out a new left pan. Took the right half of the floor brace assembly out then leveled it and welded joints that are sure to stay. That means not the seat mount bars yet. Hey now that I read it that sounds like pics. I have a few but my day's ration of gumption is fading fast. Yawn. I better hurry.

[idrivejunk]

Oh and hey Frank... as far as I know, the existing trans mount stays where it is. I thought a revision could maybe avoid having "wings" at the back of the trans tunnel but now am just gonna make room, as you'll see. The floor is turning out to be almost exactly what I originally pictured. I just gotta hop to and get some space filled with new floor and maintain some visual momentum. Other side has all the thinking done except for seats, so building the remainder and, when the time comes, installing the floor should go fairly quick.

[idrivejunk]

Well guys I know the pics haven't changed much lately but I am stoked about being almost done with what, for me, has been the big thing on this project. Not ready to talk seats yet though, but there has been mental progress there. I sure have enjoyed flooring from scratch so far but it has been a stretch for the noggin at times. I can't wait to get to the next areas. Last pic this post is finally an underneath shot. It shows some of the gussets I added today and the layout from roadkill's eye view. I did briefly put most of my weight on one foot in by the tunnel and it is plenty strong for not being tied to the other side. Didn't want to treak that inner rocker though. Its all in with screws now and prepped to attach sans seat supports or whatever will be. Pans lack some weld prep. Anyhow, here... study hard and you can see how I tied to the front mount box. The brace's front tip will be visible under the hood so I did IDJ stuffs there. Thick metal is fun and intermittently my welds improve.



This pic was Monday and shows the front leg upside down. Oops!

[idrivejunk]

Yesterday I got the driver's side half of the floor support assembly all tied in at the front, to match the passenger's. Then I eyeballed  a crude bridge directly over the trans mount, with my best guesstimation of enough room for the exhaust to get through. Thick angle steel made good stiff brackets on top of the inner support beam to set the bridge on. Tacked that up level and stood on it. Now she is stout!

Inner front seat bolts will also likely fall in the area of the big angle bracket, so the ends of the bridge may have to incorporate that as well. Its popular real estate around that tail housing.

Sooo, then today... rather than make the other front pan or toe board or gussets for that side, I sized up the tunnel situation and made a right wing. See pics below. Space created by the wing shaped tunnel side extension is mainly needed at the rear. I intend to angle it down forward of the frame bend and have it flat at the toe board seam. So theres no notch looking under the hood or lump under the carpet at the toeboard kickup.

In addition, I'll  transition the steps at front of the driveshaft tunnel flat to provide more room for exhaust bends. I'll offer to install pipe hangers or hanger mount points hanging off the bridge.

Before you see the pic, remember what I said about being flat forward of the toe board seam. And know that while currently the step up is 3/4" high and  a 90, I'm going for half inch tall lump with a more sloped step. And perhaps a couple beads for strength. Note the screw at outside front of wing... I doglegged that tall upright flange and fitted pan to wing in such a manner as to allow one row of plug welds on the step area and one on the top face of the wing. That makes the step another strong spot, being double layered and bent.

Plans beyond those go wherever it leads me, but you can see where I am thinking of using the stepped brace originally intended as a seat brace. I have come a long way, learned many lessons so far, and am looking forward to seeing it all screwed in at once, then all apart and hosed with epoxy. It will be a proud day when I plug the pans in and bury it all for eternity!

[idrivejunk]

Well, glory be.  Theres pans in it :!:  I have a good start on the trans tunnel section also.

[enjenjo]

You You have a whole lot of welding to do there.