Project "let's clean out the garage"

Started by kb426, July 08, 2017, 07:06:09 PM

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kb426

I'm tired so a brief explanation is all I can provide at the moment. You may have heard of the "Old Crow speed shop"? I believe I'm the Old Slow shop. :) I spent the day working on rear suspension. I'm not finished, just reached a good stopping place.
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kb426

I installed 2 braces per side on the rear shackle brackets. I wasn't satisfied with what I had because I couldn't get in to weld one area. I have the shock top mount to go in and decide if I can make a sway bar fit somewhere. The pinion angle has to be set and then the spring mounts welded. Slow progress. :)
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GPster

What prompted the idea to run the upper spring shackle bolts metal to metal  rather than into rubber like the spring end of the shackles? I understand that it might help limit side sway of the back of the frame but you mentioned that you had room for a cross bar in your axle/ frame lay-out.. Just trying to understand other ways of thought. I do read all the comments and look at all the pictures so that I can learn something. GPster

kb426

GPster, my thought is that the amount of rotation on the top bolt is less than the bottom. My plan is to buy or make some thin teflon sleeves and put on the bolts, I will probably undercut the bolts slightly where they fit in the sleeve on the chassis to put the sleeves on. If I don't find suitable material, I'll cut a small groove and grease them with wheel bearing grease. I don't expect this to get driven 50,000 miles in short order but I might be surprised. I asked my wife what I should do if I fall in love with this thing? I got silence. LOL
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kb426

The 1st pic is of my F150 driveshaft that is able to be shortened and work. That was nice. After that I have an assortment of gas tank and misc. shots. I would like your opinions on which fuel tank might be the best to use. I know that many of you have built many cars. I'm wondering if you have some exp. to share that might keep me from being stupid. :)
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Crosley.In.AZ

Looks like the shocks may need to lean forward - back wards instead of inward.
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

GPster

I'd use the first gas tank so you could build the body around the frame rather than the gas tank. You might come to the age where you might allow yourself to"Stop for gas" once in a while. I agree with Crosley's observation . Maybe there is enough room that you can change the shock mounts side-for-side and angle the shocks inward over the spring so that the shock's top mounts are further apart from each other.  Maybe "Cleaning the garage" truck shocks are "overkill" for this vehicle. Mustang shocks probably have the wrong ends to fit the truck's (or '58 Ford's) lower mounts but they might be closer in terms of vehicle weight/use. GPster

kb426

GPster, just for the record, that shock is a Pete and Jake regular shock I removed from the rear of the 32. They are 14" extended and around 9.5" collapsed. The reason I had the rear ward was to have the 15 degree angle that I see is recommended for rods. I hadn't thought to angle them forward and check the angle. If I hook them to a main frame rail, there's one less part to weld in. Thanks for the input, guys. :)
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kb426

Over here in the "Old and Slow" garage, I mounted the rear shocks, machined the new spring pads, set the pinion angle and tacked the spring pads. I had a few distractions but I really didn't get as much finished as I planned on. None of the distractions involved pretty women, either. :)
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idrivejunk

Aww, I was on the edge of my seat, thoroughly engrossed, and then you said pretty women and... what, oh... OK going to get more popcorn and milk duds. Be right back. :lol:   8)  The engineering stuff is mostly beyond me but its fascinating to watch a vehicle take shape. :)
Matt

kb426

Everybody go up your life insurance! We're getting closer. :) This is an assortment of pics showing some methods I used to make up for lack of equipment. :) Installing notches on the front end, cutting the floor of the cab and the cab sitting on the frame. I'm getting excited for some reason. It's just one more project but I have morbid curiosity about the outcome of this collection of parts. Encho en garageola' and away. :)
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Crosley.In.AZ

Looks like the basic conflict for space with the floor & surround areas  with the  drive shaft.
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

kb426

I seem to be back in the old and slow mode. :) I made 4 cab mounts and have them welded to the frame. I cut more floor out. I have made the mistake of not having access to bellhousing bolts before. :) The loop at the rear is a brace and the upper driveshaft loop. The tube running above it is a brace I welded in so the cab couldn't spread when I cut the braces loose. The cab sits flat on the top of the frame. I have a roll of welting left over to use on this. There's shots of the header outlets. The pipe needs to run over the frame and back under the cab on the outside of the frame rail. Won't be much fun.
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Crosley.In.AZ

I re-read some of your early posts on plans , ideas , ect...  

About side panels under the hood on the cab.  To provide a bit of a more finished look.

Had you thought about small fenders mounted to the spindles?  You may have mentioned that, and I did not see it.
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

kb426

Tony, the fenders weren't part of my original thoughts but after reading some posts where people had mentioned that the wider cabs were a catch all, I may do something about that. The fenders I like look like the spare tire covers from the 30's with the rib. I think I can do that. :)
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