60 Biscayne

UGLY OLDS · April 05, 2017, 11:08:56 PM

Does Stanley know that you borrowed his pliers :?:

Does the hood molding cover the open edge of the panel that you bent & welded in to the front of the hood :?:

( The sharp edge facing the front when the hood is installed)

It's lookin' good ...

Bob..

idrivejunk · April 06, 2017, 08:20:53 AM

I don't have a molding. My belief is that the molding rests on top of the flange. I duplicated the original as closely as possible in that area. That was my only option.

wayne petty · April 06, 2017, 11:07:02 AM

Darn it Matt. here i am eating a peanut butter sandwich.. peanut butter all over my fingers and you come up with these great pictures... just make me want to reach out and feel the smoothness of the perfected panels you are working on.. now i have peanut butter smeared all over my computer monitor screen..

nice work.. is that one going to end up at the sema show also.

idrivejunk · April 06, 2017, 09:15:39 PM

Quote from: "wayne petty"Darn it Matt. here i am eating a peanut butter sandwich.. peanut butter all over my fingers and you come up with these great pictures... just make me want to reach out and feel the smoothness of the perfected panels you are working on.. now i have peanut butter smeared all over my computer monitor screen..

nice work.. is that one going to end up at the sema show also.

Do not know about SEMA.

No worries, Wayne. Happens to lots of folks... just let "its peanut butter jelly time" banana dude take care of it from this side.

Simply scroll him around the screen. He's quite happy to scrub up for ya

Go slice up a nanner on that sammich.

Heres what happened at "Hood Lake" today. I just put a drop of olive oil on the surface and all the ripples went away.

T'was a calm morning and I relished this task. Kinda resembles a mailbox shape, don't it?

No usable access to the backside existed, so I used the Dent Fix. I left a shallow pond for the mudkippers.

I also went across the front edge of the hood at the bend and just tapped down some highs.

Soak in the smoothness now and never mind the changing background music as this PG preview ends and the horror feature begins

Look at the sunny bunny from my yard when I opened the garage this morning

Aww

idrivejunk · April 06, 2017, 09:47:41 PM

You think you are ready :?: Abandon all supper, those who pass here

Tornado salvage? Nope. Hate to sound like a piece of rope but I'm a frayed knot

Hey!

:? Whutzat thing? Why... its headed straight for us :!: Hand me the saw, quick!

:!: :!: :!:

Man, ain't that something? I'm glad the saw cut it, whew :x that was close. Lets get outta here, its quittin time anyways.

So heres my plan: Take the tail brace out with the 3 floor braces attached, surgically peel scar tissues, blast the whole mess. Do whats needed to clean up those and the drop-offs and the busted body mount, create a new bottom edge for the tail panel... and not sure just how the outer corners will work but I have a couple ideas. Don't drop your Milk Duds, Bill.

I think they tore out what they could, went by a welder's and got that bizarre scrap piece monster tacked in, then off to the dump for some fresh steel then beer store on the way home to start that fix. That was some mighty good roof tar on there too.

idrivejunk · April 06, 2017, 09:54:24 PM

Quote from: "UGLY OLDS"Does Stanley know that you borrowed his pliers :?:

Lineman Stan is a good ol boy, I bet he'll "cut" me some slack

wayne petty · April 06, 2017, 10:57:16 PM

looks like you could really use a magnetic base drill. for drilling out all those welds. nice work... puts a whole new spin on the term.. JUNK IN THE TRUNK.. wonder if somebody turned over a car battery in there at sometime in the past.

a magnetic base drill would be nice ... but it could be a serious modification.. have a tilt head.. and be spring loaded in the down position.. so you lever it upwards. just turn it on and let it down.. walk away or stretch . while it drills. since you only need 2 inches of max stroke.. it would not be that hard..

idrivejunk · April 06, 2017, 11:45:36 PM

I don't know that what welds are left will offer much resistance. Matter of fact, all the old stumps and flanges will probably peel off spam can style with a little grinding. But I actually think theres enough coverage on the new parts that this should be a decent solid fix. Those braces are gonna need work though! :-}

idrivejunk · April 07, 2017, 04:31:13 PM

My plan is evolving. This is good!

Removing only the center portion of the floor's tail extension and leaving it's reinforcement in place. This allows the vast majority of rust-throughs to be cut away cleanly, and since I am removing the section of the extension covering the flanges where the rusty gas tank braces sit on top of the tail reinforcement, I can remove the two big braces one at a time for treatment. I think the puny spare tire brace can be treated in place.

So if you followed all that, this turns into a more normal pan job. Just enough of the tail lamp panel's bottom flange will need to be cut away that it will be handy to both slide a new patch of extension in there under the gas fill, and then to patch the tail panel on the way out. Piece of cake, right?

Well, lets just say I have my idea much more defined now. As with other areas so far, I am trying to balance pace with quality so everyone gets what they need.

Friday half-day! I went for the nastiest gas tank brace first, heres where I got to.

Do you guys think I ought to rebuild that badly pitted end? Or just zap holes shut and re-use. Its not soft there.

chimp koose · April 07, 2017, 07:11:17 PM

If its buried out of sight with the tank installed , that might be the place to 'cheat ' the time card .

idrivejunk · April 08, 2017, 10:05:01 AM

I believe you are right. The outside of it looks fine but for one hole on the face and ragged edges / holes on the flange. This job needs all the time card help it can get. I will weld a few spots on it and keep moving on. There's just a lot at stake right there with a full gas tank so I figured I'd ask opinions on it.

idrivejunk · April 10, 2017, 07:52:12 PM

Heres how it ended up. I brushed epoxy on it so I could shove it into everywhere good. Did same to that flange patchwork on the hood while the brush was wet.

Belly up to the barf bin though, here we go again

There was a piece of metal RTV-ed and screwed over the trunk floor front seam. This is whats under it. No full trunk floor available, and whats ahead of it has a rotten flange too.

Boyoboy :!:

Our plan is to fab a new section from the new trunk floor up to the seam shown, but past it a couple inches. Just making it solid here, nuthin fancy because of the volume of fixes still ahead and already past. Sometimes the plan does evolve day to day.

UGLY OLDS · April 11, 2017, 11:02:15 AM

Hmmmm... :?

No little "fitzie" pieces.. :?

Pretty good sized panel .... You should be able to knock it out by lunch..We got faith in you...Hit it with epoxy in the morning ....

Isn't RTV the new "poor man's" seam sealer :?: You can get BIG tubes of it at the local "Big Box" store ...Different colors too :!:

Bob..

idrivejunk · April 11, 2017, 01:26:17 PM

This thing had some top shelf pucky on it, of that you can rest assured!

You are not too far from reality Bob. Let me take my first shot at posting from phone...

idrivejunk · April 11, 2017, 07:34:50 PM

You've surely heard or said "Ya gotta stop somewhere.". Well, this is where. At the stopping place! Pics show where I drawed a line in the sand-

I did some quicky rust fighting-

Used hot rolled 16 gauge (because its all I had on hand that was 4' wide) and made a piece that eliminates the existing flanges of both panels and reaches out to plug-weld-able steel. Its ready to screw tight and begin welding. After this, the pan job resumes. BUT- before I weld the trunk brace / floor in, I must address trench rot in the front gutter. While I can stand in the trunk.