What are you doing today? 2017

[Arnold]

Arnold I guess I've had my trimmer several years now. Did the same thing as you a couple years back. That dang microscopic hose sure does swell up and get soft, don't it? I may have blew the line loose with overly enthusiastic priming but the hose just isn't big enough to take the heat and gas too. Business end of the hose is buried under interlocked plastic shielding and lots of torx screws that you can take out and still nothing is loose. Fairly enigmatic. I'll put my patient hat on one day and tackle it. Last time it stayed apart for awhile as I gathered the want-to. Tough not to just go buy a cheapo but this one is a decent model. At least I have reached the experience level where my dual line wind jobs actually feed when the head is bumped. Progress!

Rust combat for me today. This late 70s Bronco had a tree fall on it plus used to have a sunroof. Its actually not a bad specimen but does have some sketchy previous bodywork. Floors mainly. This looked like a nightmare when I started but the fellow employee who got it before me must have been mighty discouraged when he first saw it. He got the door opening back in shape and left off during fitting of the new door shell and welding of his roof hole patch. He also made the brace under the roof that was cut out. The roof is flanged under the patch, we have different styles. I could not bring myself to straighten or weld anything until the roof skin is clean enough to use. New ones are not available since this is a two year only bodystyle. Got a day and a half in it thus far, needs another good half day of rust combat then I'll bang out the shape. Lucky for me, this panel sits like 7 or 8 feet off the ground and repair expectations are way down by the lugnuts.

For you, KB. Got yer sick sack on? I'll stick to a simple before and after on one half, and this is the better side. If anyone has a Q about the procedure, pipe up. Wish I could keep going but the bottom pic may have to be good enough. I covered it in rattle can for the night and will hope to reach this point on the other half by lunch tomorrow.

 You can't really get string trimmers fixed where I am..Good new ones cost about $120-$150. Used ones pretty much all need carbs. Carbs are $110-$120 plus tax. SOME carbs are fixable/re-buildable. The Briggs expert and very good trusted small engine guy here says a lot of the problems are caused by the emission controls on them now. Plus the inconsistent level of ethanol in the gas.
I took in a good size trimmer that never ran right..from the day I bought it new..been used..or tried to..MAYBE 10 times..ran for at the most 15min. He said the best way to deal with it was to leave it and leave him an idea of how much I wanted to spend on it..then he could either fix it or toss it for me. It needed the metering plate and main jet cleaned and a plug. Somein mustta got in there when it was built. Now it runs just perfect. $60.
Cros..I mustta got similar hose. I went to one place and the had the o/e hose that needed a grommet adaptor thingy. I went to another and it was a thicker rubberier hose.
idj..taking the tank off one of mine..ya..not happening. I think a gas line properly with the tank removed would require some sort of magic to get the fuel filter inside the tank back on. LOOKS like the idea is to put the filter on one size hose,then the adapter/grommet thingy to another size hose and then get the one hose through from the inside and pull it through to the outside
2 holes in tank. Don't care which is which..return whatever.. hose gets stuffed in and on no filter
String nonsense ended. There is a really simply head..aftermarket..forget the make? Slide line into holes in head. Short piece. As/when it wears down..PULL it out the other side and slide another piece in. Dirt simple.

  From a top shelf mechanic here I deal with now and again. He bough an expensive trimmer and had problems immediately.
  "Where there needs to be line trimming I put mulch..end of problem"

  The battery trimmers have not really worked so far up here..you really need .080 and up line here (country)

  I think what happens up here is some late fall trimming and some early winter regular gas in them that sits till the spring. Mine get hi test and stabilizer.

  I have quite a passionate HATE :evil: for trimmers.

[idrivejunk]

Yeah the line at the pickup must be made like a ship in a bottle or something, it defies logic. I probably use it six times a year and sloppily mix my own premium gas and whatever two stroke oil. Must have had the thing five years or more now, and the swollen fuel line has been the only issue. I should look around and see if I have hose left over because this stuff lasted longer than the original. The stringing new line is no prob now but it took me a few seasons to realize how to wind it so it feeds decent. I have to do something or use clippers.

[idrivejunk]

I am arguing with the local adjuster for Grundy.  I had an accident with the Olds and the Impala last Wednesday/Thursday that I have not mentioned.  I was going to put brakes on my wife's van so parked the Impala under the Oldsmobile on Wednesday evening, like I do all winter with the Van.  I came out on Thursday evening and the roof on the Impala looked funny, kind of wet possibly.  Anyway, I went over to look and there was brake fluid all over the passenger back corner of the roof.  Backed the car out and scrubbed with wax and grease remover.  Pock marked the clear pretty good, but looks like the base color will be ok.  Painter wants to sand the clear, then recoat the back of the car, then sand again and recoat the clear again.  Doing 3 coats each time. The car is pinstriped and they will need to be redone so that half of them are not under the clear.  The adjuster seemed fine on this all until we got the bid.  He only allowed for 2 coats of clear and nothing on the pinstripes.  Emailed the agent at Philadelphia (Grundy's insurance provider) and he said the adjuster will get it worked out.  The adjuster is dodging both myself and the body shop.  We will see how it goes.  
Anyway, what happened is the master cylinder on the Olds leaked out the back side for some reason.  This was a new master cylinder/booster I got some years ago.  I have had brake fluid in it for about a year with no issues, then this.  I need to figure out what the cylinder is, I think a Corvette unit.  I purchased through by buddy Gary Dagel and he picked it up from one of the vendors that was near him when he was in Orange CA.  Doubt he remembers exactly what was picked out, but will be calling just in case.  Good excuse to talk to him anyway.

Wow, that sucks. My first thought would have been to hit it with a water hose. 3 coats of clear should not stump them too bad but good luck getting the "show paint" buff job too. Bum deal, hope it works out.

[idrivejunk]

Almost forgot. I think the roof will be alright rust and dent-wise. Hoping I can weld it up without drama. I was worried about this side. Tempted to slice and weld that crumpled spot that looks like an H. Gonna have to clean that seam good first with a cutoff wheel. Theres a flange under it. Crawliing in and out of this and standing weird and reaching and running tools and swinging hammer for like 7 hours wasn't as bad today, finally ran the air and it sure helped with the work because I was doing an epic amount of shrinking plus I didn't get sweat everywhere (as bad). Makes me get nappy and yawn when the doors are down though. I have been using Eastwood rust converter but they showed up today with a fresh jug of Picklex 20 which seems stronger and is not foamy. Was letting the Eastwood dry but am wiping up the Picklex wet. Sure am glad theres stuff out there that gets results, I am just learning how to work these acid products.

[purplepickup]

Leaving for the Byron Meltdown nostalgia drags tomorrow. Hooley will have his Willys pickup gasser there.

Did some U-pick cherries today. I like cherries.

[sirstude]

So far so good on the insurance.  The adjuster sent a new bid to the shop on the striping and the additional clear.  The body man is a good friend, we will get everything done correctly plus whatever else is needed.  Looks like the holdup was the adjuster and Grundy/Philadelphia is working great with me.

[phat46]

Leaving for the Byron Meltdown nostalgia drags tomorrow. Hooley will have his Willys pickup gasser there.

Did some U-pick cherries today. I like cherries.

.

How's the cherry crop this year? I had heard earlier that berries weren't doing well due to a wet spring. Our raspberries are doing very well and our cherry trees are finally producing after five years. I have fond memories of being on vacation in the Big Star lake/Baldwin area and ny Dad buying cherries then riding around spitting the pits out the window! 😄

[papastoyss]

The VW is probably a '68 , that was the 1st year for a gas door & collapisble (sp) steering column. If it has CV joints in the rear instead of old style swing axle it could be a '69 or '70. The vin is stamped on the center tunnel just in front of the oval access plate for the shift rod under the back seat, the 3rd digit is the year, ie 158 is a 1968 model.  Many thanks for taking the time for your posts, I really enjoy reading & maybe learning the right way to do something.

I was told that by his best reckoning, the tech on it had determined by those numbers that the body was '57 and chassis was '67. I just know nothing about them and am glad that I am a bodyman so I won't need to really. The specifics will suface as the job progresses without me lifting a finger. Sure am glad to have the position that I do in the crew up there. Somehow just being around old cars makes everything seem OK. Glad to spread it around as forum fodder.

The gas door & bumper bracket attaching points are '68 & up. Also 4 lug wheels came out in 1968. 1967 & older models ,you had to lift the front hood to refuel, the filler neck came straight up out of the tank. The convertible bodies were actually subbed out & built by Karmann who also built the Karmann Ghia.

[58 Yeoman]

The VW is probably a '68 , that was the 1st year for a gas door & collapisble (sp) steering column. If it has CV joints in the rear instead of old style swing axle it could be a '69 or '70. The vin is stamped on the center tunnel just in front of the oval access plate for the shift rod under the back seat, the 3rd digit is the year, ie 158 is a 1968 model.  Many thanks for taking the time for your posts, I really enjoy reading & maybe learning the right way to do something.

I was told that by his best reckoning, the tech on it had determined by those numbers that the body was '57 and chassis was '67. I just know nothing about them and am glad that I am a bodyman so I won't need to really. The specifics will suface as the job progresses without me lifting a finger. Sure am glad to have the position that I do in the crew up there. Somehow just being around old cars makes everything seem OK. Glad to spread it around as forum fodder.

The gas door & bumper bracket attaching points are '68 & up. Also 4 lug wheels came out in 1968. 1967 & older models ,you had to lift the front hood to refuel, the filler neck came straight up out of the tank. The convertible bodies were actually subbed out & built by Karmann who also built the Karmann Ghia.

Back in the 70's and 80's, I was buying and selling VW's, mostly Bugs, but I did have a couple buses and a PU. I sold a 64 Bus to a friend of mine, a Harley rider. He would drive the old bus all winter, then ride the Harley the whole summer. I was just talking with another friend yesterday (mutual), and he told me that Billy died last year. He was STILL driving that old beater bus during the winters. The neice disposed of them one way or another, my friend didn't know.

[purplepickup]

How's the cherry crop this year?

Very good. Picked these out on Mission Penninsula by Traverse City.  Some of the branches were breaking from the weight. I've got good memories of buying cherries at roadside stands up north when I was a kid too.

[idrivejunk]

Set me up a new blog for pic dumping. Hope it will be smooth sailing now with no more destroyed threads. Speak now if the image size is irritating.  Its easiest if I keep this size, it suits me and is the least steps and if google will host em free this big...That's set at like half the size my Galaxy S7 can do but it might not suit you guys who read the forum on a double naught spy watch or whatever.

[Rrumbler]

How's the cherry crop this year?

Very good. Picked these out on Mission Penninsula by Traverse City.  Some of the branches were breaking from the weight. I've got good memories of buying cherries at roadside stands up north when I was a kid too.

There is a place east of Los Angeles, about seventy or eighty miles, named Cherry Valley.  Today, it is pretty much a bedroom community of large parcel properties, but when I was a kid, they had cherry orchards there, lots of them, and at many of them, you could go pick your own fruit.  Most had areas for picnicking, and my family, grands, aunts and uncles, cousins, and whatever hangers on might be around would go up there on a Saturday, or a Sunday after church, have a picnic and pick cherries.  By the next weekend, we had cherry pies and jam, cobbler and grunts, and all sorts of stuff to eat; a lot got canned, too.

[58 Yeoman]

Work on the padded dash stopped for a couple days. I found some 3M adhesive at the body supply store. Found the dash speaker is in bad shape. I'm surprised that I could still hear sound out of it. Went looking for a replacement yesterday and today. HAH! 8 ohms? Nada. all 4 ohm. I did find an electronic shop in the warehouse district in Peoria that called a guy for me that would re-cone it for me. Price? $125. Uh...no, I don't listen to the radio that much.

Came home and found a pair on Amazon that should work with a little work. $45. That's better.

[enjenjo]

Work on the padded dash stopped for a couple days. I found some 3M adhesive at the body supply store. Found the dash speaker is in bad shape. I'm surprised that I could still hear sound out of it. Went looking for a replacement yesterday and today. HAH! 8 ohms? Nada. all 4 ohm. I did find an electronic shop in the warehouse district in Peoria that called a guy for me that would re-cone it for me. Price? $125. Uh...no, I don't listen to the radio that much.

Came home and found a pair on Amazon that should work with a little work. $45. That's better.

What is the part number on the adhesive? I like the 3M urethane glass adhesive in tubes for gluing down the dash cover. It will never come loose, and does not break down the foam. 3M Polyurethane Glass Adhesive Sealant 590 Black  About 20 minutes set time.

[kb426]

How about 7075 t6 step plates? I made simple effective step plates for the 51 today. This is left over 7075 t6 alum that is brushed for a finish look. I kept thinking I would have a good idea but I gave up for time being. The more I drove it, the more scratches were appearing. I admitted defeat.