What are you doing today? 2017

Started by enjenjo, January 01, 2017, 12:11:07 PM

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chimp koose

KB , interesting parting tool holder . I like the quick change tool post . I have 2 at my shop . Last year I had 2 students make their own for their home lathes .

chimp koose

spent some time today cleaning up around my T . I sometimes get it so buried in stuff that it starts to get in the way . Got the back end ready for re assembly . I would like to get the trunk together before easter . I had originally thought I would get the trunk finished by new years but that's how it always seems to go . Got wipers and seat sliders from speedway the other day . Once the trunk is done I move to seat install .

kb426

C.K., there's never enough tooling. :) You can either build tools all the time or build stuff that needs tools built for it. I'm not sure how many messes I'll create on this little project. ???
TEAM SMART

UGLY OLDS

KB...Is that really a "C" clamp holding the cut off bit holder to the tool post   :?:  :?  :idea:

 Gee ...The tool guy looks at me funny when I buy 3/16" square tool bits ....  :oops:  :roll:

Bob... :wink:
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****

kb426

Yes, Bob, that is a c clamp. If it makes it better, it's a really large one. :) Rained all day here. Changed to snow in the afternoon but all melted. That's about 5" of moisture in the last 8 days here in the desert.
TEAM SMART

UGLY OLDS

QuoteRained all day here. Changed to snow in the afternoon but all melted. That's about 5" of moisture in the last 8 days here in the desert.

QUICK  :!:  :!:  
Hide all the bare metal  :!:  :!:  :!:   :lol:

Bob... :wink:
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****

chimp koose

OK I did it . I took the porta power to my T tonight . I pulled it in as far as it would go until it touched the lower panel on both sides of the T strip . my top brace is just the right width so I bolted it together and released the porta power . Everything stayed where it was .The body was mounted solidly to the frame when all this was done . I forgot to narrow the lower panel by an additional 1/4" so I now have a gap of 1/4" per side at the bottom of the trunk and close to 3/16" at the top . I am calling it quits . If I need to tighten the gaps at the bottom I will tack up a 1/16" strip to the bottom edges . The diagonals are equal . A guy on the HAMB was asking about trunk gaps on T coupes and the response he got from a guy with a stock one was a fat 1/8" . I am close enough . I will probably take a hardwood hammer and dolly to the rear quarters tomorrow and just tap around a bit to relieve any stress that might be there . Man does the back side of a T coupe ever look short ! Might be the 11.5 x 31 slicks I have mounted at the back ? Those are just set up tires as they are the same height as the tires I want to use .

idrivejunk

CK thats good news. Glad you found the quarters to be cooperative :)  I see no sin in applying filler to the edges then carving your gap with a paint stick with the sandpaper wrapped around and stuck to both sides. Because I try to limit filler to an eighth inch particularly near an edge. But you probably won't have any spots thicker than that if you carve the gap with the lid shut. Thats what I'm thinking. :idea:
Matt

chimp koose

Well I've had a day to look at the trunk and I am inclined to do it over . If I take it apart again and narrow my top brace by 1/4" and narrow the repair panel 1/8" at the top on each end with the  narrowing tapered to nothing at the bottom edges  I should be able to close up the gap to the same from top to bottom of the trunk opening . As it is the gap widens as it gets to the bottom and looks bad. Yes it is more work but I have spent enough time on this car that another few hours is not going to kill me . Besides that , every time I looked at the car that gap would bug me . There really is nothing else on the car so far that I would do differently if given the chance so I might as well keep on doing it that way .

kb426

TEAM SMART

idrivejunk

Bravo, CK.  :)  You'll be glad you thought it over well.
Matt

Crosley.In.AZ

Quote from: "chimp koose"Well I've had a day to look at the trunk and I am inclined to do it over . If I take it apart again and narrow my top brace by 1/4" and narrow the repair panel 1/8" at the top on each end with the  narrowing tapered to nothing at the bottom edges  I should be able to close up the gap to the same from top to bottom of the trunk opening . As it is the gap widens as it gets to the bottom and looks bad. Yes it is more work but I have spent enough time on this car that another few hours is not going to kill me . Besides that , every time I looked at the car that gap would bug me . There really is nothing else on the car so far that I would do differently if given the chance so I might as well keep on doing it that way .

I've re- done things so often. I just start on the 3rd or 4th  attempt to get past the 1st one quickly
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

chimp koose

when I did my Anglia I only had 2 do overs . I built a heater ducting system that I finally threw away and then I lengthened the rear suspension after about a year hiatus from the project. Turns out the measurement I "remembered " and had to correct was wrong and I had to return it to what it was . At least the re do things were better than the before ones . Oh yeah I guess I had 3 do overs . I had a diagonal link that I scrapped for a panhard bar .

kb426

I removed the front bumper off the 51 and blasted it and shot some paint on it. If the color looks good, it will come off sometime later and have some finish work done on it. It was rusting up so this was stop gap.
TEAM SMART

chimp koose

Worked on the T coupe today . I ground off the rivets and removed the rear brace so I could remove the rear panel under the trunk again . Then I took the rear panel and made 2 cuts top to bottom 3/16" in from the flanges of the panel . I left a little material at the bottom because that dimension was correct which left the trimmed parts still connected at the very bottom . I overlapped the flanged part back to my 3/16 trimmed edge at the top . I pressed the panel down onto the flange and started tacking from the bottom back up to the top . A quick check shows the radius to still match the T flange on both sides . My question is this . Should I completely weld the flanges back on to the panel or would a series of tacks 1/2" apart do the job ? The upper brace is what holds the sides together with the bolts on the flange more for positioning the panel I am thinking . Either way I will por15 the panel again so no place for moisture to creep in . Just wondering if I can avoid the possible warpage from a complete weld . I narrowed the panel 3/8" because this time I will tune in the gaps and then use shims on the upper brace to hold it at the right width . 1/4" should do it for tightening the gap but I thought I would like some wiggle room as I really don't want to do this job again . Thanks in advance for the advice , I will likely try to get after this again tomorrow afternoon .