68 Camaro bodywork

Started by idrivejunk, March 11, 2016, 03:52:38 PM

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idrivejunk

Well sure... but the limit I'm seeing is 160 KB, thats thumbnail size. I try to upload something around 2MB and and it just goes away. I wouldn't worry about it but I'm almost out of off-site hosting space.
Matt

enjenjo

QuoteBut I see Frank's pics are 1.75MB

I am a special case. Fat Cat got tired of resizing pictures for me, so he fixed it so I can post them as I take them.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

idrivejunk

Quote from: "enjenjo"
QuoteBut I see Frank's pics are 1.75MB

I am a special case. Fat Cat got tired of resizing pictures for me, so he fixed it so I can post them as I take them.

I actually laughed out loud  :lol:

Mystery solved and back to business as usual I reckon. You are a special case, all your work is 'specially nice. 8)
Matt

Harry

You would be better off buying one of those Chinese repop bodies.

river1

Quote from: "idrivejunk"Well sure... but the limit I'm seeing is 160 KB, thats thumbnail size. I try to upload something around 2MB and and it just goes away. I wouldn't worry about it but I'm almost out of off-site hosting space.

Open a new account whit a different email
Most people have a higher than average number of legs.

idrivejunk

Fixing this is WAY less expensive than a new body but this would have been a good build to use one for. When it was started, those were not available yet.

I have two hosting accounts already, both almost full. Time to pay if I'm gonna keep doing it this way. Theres a trend toward no more free hosting, watch and see.

Driver's door fitment. I stuck the front end back on. The door is open just a little on the pic fron the rear. A few tricks were required but everything actually went relatively well. Had to tweak both fender and door structure but only a very slight amount.

The rocker apparently did not fit exactly because its bent at the cowl end on the bottom. Bottom front corner of the door sat against it. Theres barely a gap there now but I intend to clearance the bottom of the door rather than attack the rocker.

Other than that... as usual the lower door hinge needed a little hole slotting to tuck in the last little bit. The bushings under the core support may be just barely too tall but thats fine. I am kinda glad the wheelhouses and fenders are all already together for this. Either the aftermarket panels were cooperating today or experience is paying off, because these need very little more fine tuning.

Of course the bottom fender bolt was snapped off and rusted in the body below the cowl area. Didn't have any trouble drilling the bolt out but I had to work real carefully with the tap. Good as new.









Matt

idrivejunk

Ended up going to plan C on picture posting but it should work good. Took river's advice (again), thank you.

I have an update. Door gaps will eat week one, pretty much. After all the adjusting, trimming, and bending was done on the driver's door, there were areas where the gap was too wide. The skin wasn't folded over very good at the rear so I gotr what I needed by flattening the edge more then evening out the whole edge with a file.

But at the front of the driver's door, I had to add metal. Come on into my dusty stall here...















Insert noisy grinding and sparks here-



it used to rub down here-







Removed the door and flipped it over to weld the backside-











Smoothed all that out and welded up the bottom down by the rocker then put it back on. Did some fine tuning, rattle canned it and took these-







Stay tuned for the other side. Lets go out to the lobby and get ourselves a treat, while I compile another post...
Matt

idrivejunk

The other side, now.

I had done all the adjusting and edge bumping and some trimming on this side earlier, and came back to do a little more of that. I have a few edge spots to weld up but only a small piece of rod to add at the top of the quarter. You can see how the gap is still wedge-shaped up above the handle.





Ground off a little much there at the front bottom. I have to weld there anyway. it used to rub there on this side, too. It will even out.



This one has more clearance when opening than the other side, at the upper body line. They both clear now.

Matt

UGLY OLDS

By chance, is that all "Imported" sheet metal parts  :?:

Bob. :wink:
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****

idrivejunk

Matt

WZ JUNK

Looks really good.  

I hope our paths cross someday.  We are only a short distance apart.  Over the years I have been able to meet a lot of the people who post here, and all of them are a lot farther away than you.

John
WZ JUNK
Chopped 48 Chevy Truck
Former Crew chief #974 1953 Studebaker   
Past Bonneville record holder B/BGCC 249.9 MPH

chris spokes

Quote from: "UGLY OLDS"By chance, is that all "Imported" sheet metal parts  :?:

Bob. :wink:

yeah that was my first thought as well , nice work  8)
he who has the most toys wins

enjenjo

It's pretty much all imported now. There is just junk imported, and better imported, but no good imported. Nice work.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

idrivejunk

Thanks, gents. I try. I heard there could be a 34 Ford floor and rust job coming soon. Also a couple wrecks are on the way, and next week this will be a dry thread as I assemble the white Mustang job.

WZ, likewise. I have met members from other forums who live in MO but not as close as Neosho. We're on the north side of Rogers on 62 near the fighter jet on a stick.

Country of origin identification is gone from the parts, and I don't know how to distinguish foreign parts but stickers on the wheelhouses say "Goodmark (high quality)". The parts fit each other better than some I have seen but keep in mind this build has been underway for a decade. I am starting to see Dynacorn things that fit. Times are a'changing.

I ended up modifying that right door  at top rear, rather than the quarter like I said. Duh. But the quarter was split at the corner and needed a touch of welding there anyway. Also took a baby step toward improving quarter welds in the right door jamb, while I was nearby. Plug welds not liked were drilled with a flat nosed Zebra cobalt spotweld bit and re-welded or welds added. Not all that is shown.





Don't worry, the open plug weld holes you see go to a panel I have not made yet. That will be another day.



I took the door off once the outer welding was done, and welded up the split at the bottom front of the door skin and finished that then reinstalled it.





The slight wide spot behind the handle can go away during filler work on the quarter. The stamping is too rounded here anyway.











This parting shot for the day shows a wooden wheel... ha... and the "wall of shame" along that beam at the top. Let's see... left to right thats a chunk of bondo from a GT500 clone quarter in orange, a Yarnell's ice cream sign that was sectioned into a floor pan, some nonsensical home-made rocker repair panels chopped from a 46 Cadillac, a gallon of bondo that was poured into a Mustang rear floor all at once, a backyard-frenched antenna off a Bronco, something else, and a quite lopsided new new hood scoop for a glass cobra hood.

Matt

idrivejunk

I had to break for a week and assemble a Mustang. But boy-o-boy look what showed up Friday...







Yep, this one is a '69. Gets full quarters and other stuff but like the 68, is mostly new metal already. MUCH nicer work in some areas done by the owner. Those are crummy phone pics but just to break the news. When I saw it I said "Camaro on a stick" and lol'ed. Stay tuned, I'm gonna be busy with twins!
Matt