46 Chevy

[idrivejunk]

That arm is slicker than greased owl snot on a glass dorknob, Frank. :!:  Don't ask how I know.

I never would have thought of how you made that hole.    

I thought you were going to use Acme instant hole, Wile E. Coyote style.

[enjenjo]

More done on the 46.

I installed 91 Toyota Land Cruiser rotors on the stock 46 hubs, and did a roller bearing conversion. The bolt pattern is the same on both parts, but the rotor is threaded 12mm 1.5 thread which is used for lug bolt, and almost nothing else. So the stock lug bolt are 7/16" by 20 thread. I did some searching and found that 60s Dodge Dart used a 7/16" by 20 thread lug bolt with a shoulder long enough to fit through both parts, and a spline size long enough to pick up both parts, and large enough diameter to be able to drill both parts to that size, which was 34/32". I spot faced the inside of the Toyota rotor so there was enough room for the heads of the lug bolts, and pressed them into place. I checked runout and I has less than .002". That suits me.

The Toyota Rotor is the right thickness to use an off the shelf Speedway caliper bracket and a GM caliper. And the stock wheels still fit.

I had the engine all reassembled except for the oil pan. The last person that assembled it was very fond of silicone sealer. They must have used a whole tube on just the oil pan. It took me two hours with a rotary wire brush to get it all off. New gaskets, and just a dab of sealer and it was back together.

This truck is getting Fenton headers, and split pipes, I plan on using these Turbo muffles, and an H pipe. You think that will work out? The owner wants it louder than stock, but no glass pack rap.

The trans is all back together, I had to remove the throw out bearing sleeve, and shorten it for this application. While it was clean I threw some spray can paint on it.

[kb426]

You're doing a great job of making this a driver without loosing sight of the original truck. In regards to the mufflers: I used some real small ones on a stock engine that had a very mild cam profile and there was almost no sound. It seems to me that we all spend alot of time experimenting trying to get the right sound anymore. Too quiet, too loud, too much drone, too harsh. It sure was easier when there was stock, glass packs and straight pipes.
Good steering, real brakes, 5 speed. I'm liking where this is going.

[enjenjo]

The block in the 235 had a lot of rust in it from pure water setting in it for a long time, and needed to be cleaned. I ordered 2 lbs of Citric acid from Amazon, and dissolved it in hot water. After flushing and  sealing up the engine, I poured it in the thermostat outlet at the top of the engine, until it was clear full. After a half hour or so, I drained it into a bucket, and it came out looking like mountain dew. I heated it up again, and poured it back in. After setting another half hour or so I drained it again and flushed it with water. I then filled it with Calgon and hot water to neutralize it, and flushed again in about half an hour. I pulled the water pump, and 99 % of the rust is gone, and I'll feel safer installing it.

[kb426]

How hot does the water have to be for the citrus to dissolve? Would it be better if you hooked up a pump and circulated the mix? Does the mix become diluted and ineffective rapidly? Sorry for the questions but I may need this sometime.

[enjenjo]

How hot does the water have to be for the citrus to dissolve? Would it be better if you hooked up a pump and circulated the mix? Does the mix become diluted and ineffective rapidly? Sorry for the questions but I may need this sometime.

It will actually dissolve at room temperature. It is recommended that you put it into the engine and run it with no thermostat, so 160 to 180 degrees is enough. Since this engine is not ready to run, I put it in a plastic pitcher and nuked it in the microwave.

Using a pump to circulate it is a good idea.

Citric acid is biodegradable, so I just dumped in the driveway stone. I have crushed limestone in the driveway, and it still had enough to make the stone fizz a little, but only for a couple minutes.

[enjenjo]

More pictures.

I have the engine ready for clean up for paint. I am going to try to get that done sunday, if I can get it cleaned up tomorrow.

I found out today that one of the front hubs I have is junk. I did find another one, have to go pick it up in the morning. The outer bearing race had spun pretty bad, dingle berries were all that held it in place.

I worked on the shift lever today. I had turned the upper lever on the lathe a couple weeks ago, but was not happy with it, it just looked too industrial. So after staring at it for a while, I decided it was just too thick all the way through. So I turned it down about 3/16" more along the whole length, and I am much happier now. This shifter started out in an S10, and we are putting a spacer under the shift tower to give it a shorter throw. The spacer is 1.250" tall, so I had to move the pivot pin up that much. The S10 lever did not have enough straight lever to do this, so I made a new one out of tool steel on the lathe. I started with 3/4" square stock, and left the top square so I can mount the the upper lever using it. That is where I had to leave for a dinner date. More tomorrow.

[enjenjo]

Well, I have the shift lever finished. I used a piece of 1"x 1" tubing with a 1/8" wall to connect the two parts. I reshaped one end of the tubing round by forging it with a hammer and heat. I touched it up on the lathe, and welded it to the upper lever. I then reheated that end of the lever to stress relieve it, and bead blasted the lever as it will be powder coated black. I drilled the end of the tubing, and the upper end of the lower shift lever for a 5/16" bolt to hold them together. I still have to Phosphate the lower shift lever for corrosion protection.

I picked up a bunch of powder coated parts today, including the fuel tank, front axle, steering arms, shackles, and a bunch of other stuff. I had the intake manifold, and a couple other parts coated with a variegated black/silver powder, they look great. The blue tint is from the sun in that picture.

[kb426]

Looks good, Frank. I've never asked you this before, do you enjoy the accomplishments or is it more of being busy?

[enjenjo]

I enjoy both, but making things from scratch is great fun for me. Building some thing that looks like it belongs there is very satisfying.

[enjenjo]

I picked up the frame at the sand blasters today. They blasted it, and painted it gloss black with a urethane enamel they use on train cars. It should hold up.  I put it up on stands in the shop, installed the steering box, it fit like a glove.He bought new springs, I took the front ones apart so I can paint them, and install spring liner. I have to deburr the leaves so they don't cut the spring liner, then paint them. It would have been easier if they hadn't dipped them in wax.

[kb426]

I love progress!

[idrivejunk]

Ooooh     Aaaah  

Candy-like freshly done chassis and all the trimmings. :mrgreen:

Engine looks like it will take a nice hose job  );b(

The shifter is a nice piece of work. Human interface items are critical to the success of the overall package. :-}

These key items you're constructing really will be the unsung heroes of the build.   :0-0

[enjenjo]

I assembled the front springs with liner between the leaves, and installed them in the front of the truck. About a half hour later I heard a ping, walked to the other side, and the head had popped off of one of the spring bolts. The only other time that happened, it was counterfeit bolts, so I called the vendor about it. They are sending me new ones from another batch, and checking their stock.

[UGLY OLDS]

Lucky that it happened now & not on the road .....
That truck is lookin' good ...

Bob...