46 Chevy

Started by enjenjo, March 01, 2016, 07:13:44 PM

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enjenjo

Quote from: "idrivejunk"Wicked NOS find! So.... ya gonna knock out that little dinker? We're all gonna know its there since you said something about it. I might have stared at it for too long now...  :shock:

I hadn't planned on it, it's so small and right behind where the coil will be. But every time I walk past it.........I think it's growing :shock:
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

enjenjo

I spent some time moving cars around today, but did get some stuff done, or close to it.

I am almost finished with the Ubolt plates for the rear end. Since it is a truck, and he is going to pull a trailer, I made them from 1/2" steel. I still have to deburr them, and relieve them for the shock mounts.

Where I am mounting the fuel cell, there is a cross member the owner wants to retain. To put the fuel fill where he wants it, and still fit it all in, the fill tube has to be moved from the center of the mounting plate to the rear edge of the mounting plate. I cut a new plate, still have to drill the mounting holes. I turned a hose end on a piece of pipe with the lathe, trimmed the other end to a 22 1/2 degree angle, reversed one end and welded it back together. This will gain me about another inch. I still have to drill the plate, and weld the filler neck to it.

I also stripped some more of the interior panels, have I mentioned I don't like clutch head screws?

The emergency brake cables cam in today from controlcables.com  Very nice work, and the price was only $33 each.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

kb426

I'm with you on clutch head. Maybe when they were new, they were good. That doesn't include the last 20 years of my world. I like the fact that the owner is going to use his truck.
TEAM SMART

idrivejunk

First time I saw a clutch head I thought they were bat-bolts.

Nice beefy shock mount plates  :D

The fill hose barb impresses me as well. Real nice. Thats pretty awesome about the cables too.
Matt

enjenjo

Well I am back at it today, for a while any way. I finished the new fill neck for the tank. From the point I had it the other day, it took an hour to finish it.

I changed the fuel sending unit to one that matches the gauge we are using. Of course I had to enlarge the hole a bit to get it in. And reclock the new sender. and figure out a new way to ground the sender. Otherwise it bolted right in.

The fuel line fittings on this tank are -10 male AN fittings. I have not been able to come up with something that suits me to reduce it to 5/16" inverted flare. I'll figure out something.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

UGLY OLDS

Looks good Frank ... Would it be easier to reduce it to #6 & then to 3/8" inverted flare  :?:
Then reduce to 5/16" at a fuel filter along the frame or such ..... :idea:

Jus' thinkin'....

Do you think those rear U-Bolt plates will be strong enough  :?:   :lol:

Bob... :wink:
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****

kb426

Frank, I don't think you'll like this but it is an option. Tap the fitting for female pipe threads and go pipe to inverted flare. There is the option of the double swivel coupler and then reduce from male adapter to pipe- inverted thread but I would want as few connections as possible. I have welded strange things to female nuts before. :)
TEAM SMART

enjenjo

Quote from: "kb426"Frank, I don't think you'll like this but it is an option. Tap the fitting for female pipe threads and go pipe to inverted flare. There is the option of the double swivel coupler and then reduce from male adapter to pipe- inverted thread but I would want as few connections as possible. I have welded strange things to female nuts before. :)

I think I have it figured out. I found a 90 degree hose end in my misc fitting box,  It was for a -8 hose, a reduced fitting. I cut the barb for the hose off, and tapped the end for 1/8" pipe. I will install a 1/8" male to -5 IFF fitting in the end, and silver solder it together.

I assembled the rear brakes, along with the emergency brake cables. I still have to run the brake lines, but there were not enough clamps to hold them securely. So I bent up some steel, and sliced pieces off the make clamps from. I'll weld them on tomorrow.

I milled down the end of the spring bracket where the shock fastens to it, they are ready to go out for powder coating.

I finally got the windshield out today, the hinges were frozen with rust, it made it real difficult to get at the screws.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Charlie Chops 1940

I like your adapter for the fuel line size. Once you get used to the idea of the silver solder construct it can be very useful.

I have made a few brake line bulkhead fittings by silver soldering brass unions into hex shaped holes in brass sheet stock. It's particularly useful when I've used Kugel style hanging clutch and brake pedals behind the dash. I'll need to make one soon for the new roadster pick up project.
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying. "Wow...that was fun!"

Poster geezer for retirement....

A Hooligan!

enjenjo

I make EFI line adapters by silver soldering fittings. It make a reliable connection.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

enjenjo

More tear down today. I stripped one door to the shell, took apart the windshield frame, and pulled the glass out. I did take some pictures of how I got the rusted stuck hinge bolts out.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

enjenjo

Road trip yesterday, so nothing done. Today we pulled the dash, removed the windshield regulator, took out a ton of clutch head trim screws, removed the second windshield hinge, had to grind the heads of the screws on this one too. I also stripped the second door, and removed the heater.

There is a wooden block in the front of the door that holds the front and the back of the cab together. It had shrunk over the years from 1 1/4" thick to about 1 1/16" thick. Since we are changing the cab mounts to rubber isolators, I decided to change the wood block to metal ones. I had some aluminum stock but nothing thick enough. So I used a screw and loctite to fasten a 3/4" block, and a 1/2" block together. I drilled and countersunk the holes, and rolled the edges like the wood block was to fit the curves in the floor panel. New screws, and the floor now lines up like it should, and the joint is tight. Allen heads instead of Clutch heads this time.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

kb426

Did clutch heads work easily when they were new? :)
TEAM SMART

idrivejunk

I am curious how the clutch head fastener type came to be.  :?:  :roll:

That welded nut screw removal sure worked slick on the door.  :idea:  8)

I'm trying to spot your alumalumber, looking really hard :x  because it sounds purty / interesting. Maybe I'm too close to the screen?  :shock:

I'm not mad but the mad smiley looks squinty. I'll do anything to insert a context where this  :shock: little guy is valid, hahaha.

Keep up the good work, and thanks for the update!  :D
Matt

enjenjo

Quote from: "idrivejunk"I am curious how the clutch head fastener type came to be.  :?:  :roll:

That welded nut screw removal sure worked slick on the door.  :idea:  8)

I'm trying to spot your alumalumber, looking really hard :x  because it sounds purty / interesting. Maybe I'm too close to the screen?  :shock:

I'm not mad but the mad smiley looks squinty. I'll do anything to insert a context where this  :shock: little guy is valid, hahaha.

Keep up the good work, and thanks for the update!  :D

I just got scolded. The pictures I was posting took us over our limit. Fat Cat to the rescue.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.