46 Chevy

Started by enjenjo, March 01, 2016, 07:13:44 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

enjenjo

Quote from: "kb426"Was the owner upset with the color choices or more like, let's change that? Cheap electronics are quite startling anymore. The music equipment I'm working on has some real surprises. :)

He picked the colors, and was not happy with them when the parts were done.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

idrivejunk

Quote from: "river1"
Quote from: "GPster"
Quote from: "enjenjo"I suggested a locking cap, so no one would try to add fuel there.
That was my first thought. GPster

Or he could put one of these inside it  :D

http://www.buygaggifts.com/product/Snakes-in-a-Can-Prank-p502961771.html

Quote from: "enjenjo"The can of snakes idea has some merit

HAhahahaha!  :lol:  I concur.

Looking like a tight ship Frank. Nice work all around.
Matt

enjenjo

I had some help today, so we insulated the inside of the cab roof, and back. There is no tinny sound when you slap the cab now, just a solid thunk. I got another batch of powder coating back today, pictures tomorrow.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

enjenjo

My "spoon" recess was not big enough, so I fabricated a bigger recess, I made it bolt in, and installed it. Plenty of clearance now.

I made up the magic box that lets you use one LED to operate both the parking light and the turn signal.

parts needed    1N5400 Silicon Standard Recovery Rectifier Diode, 3 Amp, DO-201AD, 50V  you need four of them.

                       2.2 K Ohm 1/8 watt carbon film resistor  you need two of them

                       project box 2x3x1 one for each side.

You wire the resistor into the parking light wire, and in series with one of the diodes with the band on the diode in the direction of the load. The turn signal wire gets a diode, but no resistor.  The load side of both diodes are connected together, and to a wire going to the LED. I used shrink tube on all the bare wires, then I drilled three holes in the project box, pulled the wires through from the inside, and sealed them with a dab of silicone. That's it.  About $5 per side. You need an electronic flasher for this setup, because there is not enough load with just the diode to make a normal flasher work.

The owner wants WS washers, so I bought a set of Nozzles from Eckler, and fabricated a mount out of some 1/2" hex aluminum bar I had. Unfortunately the thread on the nozzles is no.6 by 40 tpi, so I had to buy a tap.  I turned them on the lathe, shaped them a bit by hand, and polished them up. They mount in 5/16" holes on the cowl.

I still have to insulate the cowl, but the rest of the cab is done.

The seat belt mounts are back from powder coating, so I installed them
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

chimp koose

That bubble wrap stuff must work ok . I was thinking about using it on the T as it looks pretty easy to install . How effective is it ? do you notice a big difference or is it something you do as an extra because there is space for it ?

enjenjo

Quote from: "chimp koose"That bubble wrap stuff must work ok . I was thinking about using it on the T as it looks pretty easy to install . How effective is it ? do you notice a big difference or is it something you do as an extra because there is space for it ?

It works good every where except floors. The bubbles break on the floor. It's pretty effective as insulation, I use two 3/8" layers. I will tape the joints before I install the panels over it. The nice part of it, it does not hold water like padding does.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

kb426

Where do you purchase the electrical components?  The washer tickles me. He's keeping the engine and updating everything else. :)
This is going to be good when you are finished.
TEAM SMART

chimp koose

I am thinking of carpeting 1/4"plywood for the floors like Mercedes does .I will have flat floors with no tunnel . I wonder if it would still pop the bubbles . I plan on having roxul insulation in the car as well as it does not hold moisture either . I have used roxul in my sons motorcycle mufflers to deaden sound . It is used in one of the popular aftermarket mufflers (cant remember which)

enjenjo

Quote from: "kb426"Where do you purchase the electrical components?  The washer tickles me. He's keeping the engine and updating everything else. :)
This is going to be good when you are finished.

I bought all the parts on Amazon. They are also available at Radio Shack if you still have one.

I am using a small LED array so the 1/8 Watt resistor is big enough. If you are using a larger array, you can use a higher Wattage resistor with the same Ohm value.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

enjenjo

Quote from: "chimp koose"I am thinking of carpeting 1/4"plywood for the floors like Mercedes does .I will have flat floors with no tunnel . I wonder if it would still pop the bubbles . I plan on having roxul insulation in the car as well as it does not hold moisture either . I have used roxul in my sons motorcycle mufflers to deaden sound . It is used in one of the popular aftermarket mufflers (cant remember which)

If the plywood is between the insulation and the carpet it should work. Otherwise I think the weight of your feet would tend to pack the insulation down. If you don't use the plywood, you might try a polyolefin closed cell foam insulation, It is flexible and has great recovery.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

enjenjo

I rewired the vintage self canceling turn signal switch with new wiring, and powder coated the case to match the rest of the interior trim. I installed expanding plastic braid sleeving over the wires for a finished look.

I bought some old-timey looking knobs on Ebay that were tapped with a 10-32 mounting hole. Some of the switches that screwed right on. For the headlight switch, I removed the universal knob from the shaft, turned it down on my lathe, and cut the proper threads on the shaft with a die. For the wiper switch, and the AC controls I needed a smooth 1/4" mounting hole. To redill the hole without scaring up the knob I had to figure a way to hold them. The knobs are basically round with a small protrusion on two sides. So I bored a tightly fitting hole in some hardwood plywood the size of the knob body, then used a die grinder to cut a notch on two sides for the protrusions. I drilled a through hole into the center of the recess so I had a means of removing the knob without damaging it. The original idea was to hold the knob in place with a wooden collar, but once I tapped the knob into the hole with a mallet, it held it tightly enough that I could drill it out without a collar. A plastic rod pushed the knob out of the hole.

Since I am installing windshield washers, I needed a reservoir. I found a stainless steel one pint water bottle that will hold enough fluid to wash the windshield several times.

The floor mat came in, looks to be a pretty nice piece, and it's made of real rubber, not vinyl.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

kb426

Is the self canceling set up on a timer?
TEAM SMART

enjenjo

Quote from: "kb426"Is the self canceling set up on a timer?

Nope. If you enlarge the second picture, you will see a rubber wheel sticking out of the housing. The wheel turns against the bottom of the steering wheel, and operates a mechanism that moves the signal lever back to the neutral position when the wheel is turned back to center. This is an accessory from back in the 40s.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

UGLY OLDS

Quote
Quote from: "enjenjo"
Quote from: "kb426"Is the self canceling set up on a timer?

Nope. If you enlarge the second picture, you will see a rubber wheel sticking out of the housing. The wheel turns against the bottom of the steering wheel, and operates a mechanism that moves the signal lever back to the neutral position when the wheel is turned back to center. This is an accessory from back in the 40s.

 Pretty neat ... :idea:     Nice job bringing it back ... 8)  

I had a old guy tell me about them once ...   :lol:  :?

Bob.. :wink:
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****

enjenjo

I have all the cab insulation in, finished the cowl today.

The original defroster vents are made to use 1 3/4" hose, and the new AC uses 2" hose. So I made adapters out of PVC pipe. 1 1/2" PVC pipe is 1 3/4" od, and a 1 3/4" coupling is 2" od. So a short piece of pipe, and half a coupling was all I needed on each side. A short piece of 1 3/4" duct, and the rest in 2".

The seat belts are in, I fabricated a stand for the outside of the belt, so it has a straight pull if ever needed. The stand is 1/8" steel with a 90 degree bend, and is held in place by two 7/16" bolts through the floor pan and a doubler plate, and two 3/8" bolts into the seat riser.

The interior steel panels are back for the second time, the owner was not happy with the finish the first time. They look much better this time.

I ran all the wires in the roof that are needed, dome light, wipers, and a fan override switch.

The washer nozzles are installed, they still need adjusting.

We ordered new dash trim. One piece has a dent in it, should not be a big deal to fix, it's on the bottom, so it won't really show that much.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.