46 Chevy

enjenjo · May 28, 2016, 07:24:31 PM

No pictures today. Most of it is too small to see

I have one more hold down for the manifold to make. I made one, it worked fine, this one is similar, but reversed. I installed the road draft tube, and the splash pan on that side, the only difficulty, there was no boss to bolt the bracket for the bottom of the road draft tube. So I made an auxiliary bracket that picks up one of the unused motor mount bosses, and bolted it up.

The right splash pan fit with no modifications, not so the left one. With the new steering box, and dual exhaust pipes, it will need some modification. So today I decided to install the exhaust pipes for a trial fit. The exhaust pipes were bent to fit Fenton headers on a 50 to 54 Chevy pickup. I knew they wouldn't fit this truck, but I figured they would be close. I was wrong. The front pipe hit pretty badly on the steering box, so I had to put another bend in the pipe that curved around the steering box, and then back to fit the pipe. Kind of a C bend. While I was at it, I converted from a flat flange at the header to a ball flange so it will seal better. I ended up changing the first 16" of the pipe. The back pipe fits better, but hits one of the bolts on the steering box, so I am going to inlet a flat spot in that pipe where it goes by the box, since I can't move it in or it will hit the pan rail.

Once I have that taken care of, the other end of the pipes are much too low, which is puzzling because they are made to fit these headers. So I will have to modify them the raise the rear of the pipes about 6"

The original center cross member won't clear the new transmission without modification, and it's in pretty sorry shape, so I am making a new one, a bit further back to clear the transmission, and will incorporate the power brake booster mount into it. I am making a drop out bottom so the transmission can be removed without disturbing the brakes.

Pictures soon. I'll show you how I make a pipe end for a ball gasket with my own tool.

kb426 · May 28, 2016, 07:34:50 PM

I understand everything you described.

enjenjo · May 29, 2016, 11:32:40 PM

Okay, I promised you pictures today. First off we have the ball end on the exhaust pipe. I made this tool some time ago the do an emergency repair, and it worked so well I kept the tool and have used it several times. The only bad part it will only work on short sections of pipe, but it works very well.

I also have some pictures of the manifold clips, I will caption them so you can see what went on. I also have some other pictures for you.

idrivejunk · May 30, 2016, 12:51:43 AM

Amazing

I like the pipe shaper thing, that does work slick.

You are moving right along. All the new stuff is purty :!:

chimp koose · May 30, 2016, 03:05:23 AM

I like the hammer tone intake. Nice choice of colour to add some interest without reverting to chrome . Chrome is appealing but can lead the eye away from the craftsmanship and mechanical intricacies of a build . One day for giggles I would like to build a motor with plaid valve covers .

kb426 · May 30, 2016, 07:41:47 AM

Lots of items are real close! The older frames were so narrow that if you have an 1/8" clearance, you're real happy. Sure makes lots of challenges.

Crosley.In.AZ · May 30, 2016, 10:59:49 AM

kool looking stuff, for sure. On my 235 Chevy 6 , years ago. I built custom dual shorty headers for it. I had to modify the retaining clamps like you did here.

On the exhaust pipe shaper tool... I worked for a custom header builder for a short time in the 80's.

We used modified trailer hitch balls to shape the exhaust tubes. Usually to open the tube diameter up on a stepped tube header. Different sized hitch ball for different tubes. Worked quite well

enjenjo · June 01, 2016, 08:22:41 PM

Still working on the exhaust. The front pipe is nearly done, some clean up and one more weld to do. I still have to do the rear pipe, change the flange at the header, install a flat spot to clear the steering box. I am going to paint the entire exhaust with Eastwood exhaust paint.

I needed a driveshaft for this. He sent two that were too long, but they were both stepped tubes and could not be shortened enough. I needed a shaft 46" long, and going through my stock I found a brand new "mistake" 44 1/2" long. I bought a longer slip yoke, 7", and it fit fine. I painted and installed it today.

Since that was done, I could fill the trans with fluid, and then install the shifter. All of it works as advertised.

So now I started on the new center cross member, which will also support the brake booster

enjenjo · June 02, 2016, 07:20:29 PM

I got the front pipe done, started on the back one. The back pipe doesn't need near as much to make it fit.

I made a mounting plate for the booster on the center cross member, and have the top of the cross member all tacked together. I still have to figure out how to tie together the bottom of the cross member.

enjenjo · June 04, 2016, 12:04:29 AM

I have some pictures for you.

The original cross member interfered with the speedometer cable, and was a bit rusty, that was why I replaced it. I moved it back the width of the mounting holes, about 3 1/2", and fabricated it out of 1 1/2" by 3/16" tubing. I also incorporated the booster mount in the left side, and a C section in the middle to clear the tail shaft housing. I have it pretty much all tacked together, I still have to fabricate a bolt in bottom section, that will incorporate a transmission mount.

I was not happy with the front pipe routing on the exhaust, so I cut the back half off of it, and will reroute it.

The drive shaft is in, I used a longer yoke to compensate for the shaft being 1 1/2" shorter that optimum.

kb426 · June 04, 2016, 06:18:10 AM

Do they give you a list of instructions of items not to teach your helpers?

WZ JUNK · June 04, 2016, 08:09:19 AM

He is growing fast. It is fun to have help in the shop. We have our youngest grandson with us this weekend. The two of us broke a window out of the garage at the house playing ball. I do not mind fixing the window.

John

UGLY OLDS · June 04, 2016, 09:39:48 AM

Quote from: "WZ JUNK"He is growing fast. It is fun to have help in the shop. We have our youngest grandson with us this weekend. The two of us broke a window out of the garage at the house playing ball. I do not mind fixing the window.

John

Just a couple of kids playin' around......

Bob..

GPster · June 05, 2016, 12:07:00 PM

Quote from: "enjenjo"I needed a driveshaft for this. He sent two that were too long, but they were both stepped tubes and could not be shortened enough. I needed a shaft 46" long, and going through my stock I found a brand new "mistake" 44 1/2" long. I bought a longer slip yoke, 7", and it fit fine. I painted and installed it today.

Going back to my looking for a drive shaft for the Jeepster I had measured as best I could and come up with a needed length of 41 1/2" to the centers of the joints. I had mine cut/welded to that size and have installed it but question my accuracy. The rear end of the Jeepster is up on jack stands so I can start and run the engine (soon?) and put the trans "in gear" to let the fluid circulate. It looks like my measurements are off. For the present the purpose of the drive shaft is marginal but when the leaf springs are more than just the main leaf for the weight of the complete vehicle it will probably be too short. A long yoke might get me out of any future difficulties. Looking at my combination of '87 GMC S15 automatic transmission (700R ?) and associated universal joint do you know if there is a like longer yoke available (junk yard used or new)? GPster

enjenjo · June 05, 2016, 06:43:16 PM

Quote from: "GPster"
Quote from: "enjenjo"I needed a driveshaft for this. He sent two that were too long, but they were both stepped tubes and could not be shortened enough. I needed a shaft 46" long, and going through my stock I found a brand new "mistake" 44 1/2" long. I bought a longer slip yoke, 7", and it fit fine. I painted and installed it today.
Going back to my looking for a drive shaft for the Jeepster I had measured as best I could and come up with a needed length of 41 1/2" to the centers of the joints. I had mine cut/welded to that size and have installed it but question my accuracy. The rear end of the Jeepster is up on jack stands so I can start and run the engine (soon?) and put the trans "in gear" to let the fluid circulate. It looks like my measurements are off. For the present the purpose of the drive shaft is marginal but when the leaf springs are more than just the main leaf for the weight of the complete vehicle it will probably be too short. A long yoke might get me out of any future difficulties. Looking at my combination of '87 GMC S15 automatic transmission (700R ?) and associated universal joint do you know if there is a like longer yoke available (junk yard used or new)? GPster

Yes, you can find them. They were never stock on any thing, but they use them in roundyround racing. You can find them on Ebay for $50 to $60 with free shipping. A 700R4 takes the same yoke as a S10 T5