fixing door rust

Started by phat46, October 01, 2012, 07:43:25 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

phat46

I am going to try to fix or at least slow down some rust on the inside bottoms of my daughters car. You guys  in the rust belt know the stuff I'm talking about, it starts in the lower seam and eventually comes through to the outside skin. Her doors aren't too bad yet, the seams are starting to show rust and now is the time to get at it. I plan on stripping the rusty areas and treating with a rust "killer" that will hopefully flow into the seam and slow the rust in there too. What have you used as a rust killer that is effective? I have a jug of Evapo-Rust but it suggests soaking the part  for several hours. I'd like something that's a one time application that can be top coated. I know it won't stop the rust forever but if i don't do it now it will probably be rusted through by spring. Hoping to get several more years out of the car without it being a rust bucket.

idrivejunk

Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator is a good one. They also have a one-step rust converter which works pretty fast. Not sure which route you would want to take but maybe check out their lineup, they are both good products that are paintable.
Matt

kb426

I've used evaporust in a 55 gal drum and am really happy with it. I don't know if it will work in open air and drying.
TEAM SMART

taxpyer

Try taping the drain holes closed on the door and then pour rust-mort or some other product like it inside the door and let it soak then pull the tape and let it dry.(save the rust mort) That should slow it down to a crawl. :wink:  Don't know if you can ever stop it. Had a friend who taped the drains closed and then poured old motor oil inside the door cavity and let it soak. He did it every 4 months or so, it stopped his rust in it's tracks. :shock:  Just don't try to paint over it. :roll:
What\'s that noise?,,, Never mind,, I\'ll check it later

phat46

Quote from: "taxpyer"Try taping the drain holes closed on the door and then pour rust-mort or some other product like it inside the door and let it soak then pull the tape and let it dry.(save the rust mort) That should slow it down to a crawl. :wink:  Don't know if you can ever stop it. Had a friend who taped the drains closed and then poured old motor oil inside the door cavity and let it soak. He did it every 4 months or so, it stopped his rust in it's tracks. :shock:  Just don't try to paint over it. :roll:

 That might be a good idea, i don't know what Rust Mort is, or if it's available here. I know some old timers have told me that they poured oil in the doors from new and they would never rust. There's an outfit across the river here in Canada, that sprays hot oil on vehicle undersides and doors. i know a couple people that have used it and theeir vehicles don't seem to rust as long as they get it done annually.

Arnold

Quote from: "taxpyer"Try taping the drain holes closed on the door and then pour rust-mort or some other product like it inside the door and let it soak then pull the tape and let it dry.(save the rust mort) That should slow it down to a crawl. :wink:  Don't know if you can ever stop it. Had a friend who taped the drains closed and then poured old motor oil inside the door cavity and let it soak. He did it every 4 months or so, it stopped his rust in it's tracks. :shock:  Just don't try to paint over it. :roll:

 lol..the pair of us should be in the nut house!
 Sure..you can paint over it!

 Ya just use fiberglass resin instead of oil haha.And if you are quick..you can re-use it as you go "door to door" AND if there is any rot/holes..you can add some short strand fiberglass to the brew (just leave the tape right there)
 I should never have given this idea to someone years ago.
 Another candidate for the nut house
 They needed a NEW door! (rotted/holes in the bottom and the outer skin) Nope..masked er all up..in went a good brew of resin and short strand. I really hate to say this..but they ground it down pretty good..put on another coat of resin and some filler..primed it painted it and it looked
pretty good!

  And the clear winner..

  Then there was this van..(I admit it..I did talk to him) GM side door..(the large sliding door) bottom and bottom skin was just toast..
NOT to this guy. Masking tape..blew in some expanding foam. Broke out the surform haha..and sprayed a coat of rocker guard on it. Again..this too looked pretty good!

enjenjo

After you get done with the rust mort, or whatever, mix POR15 with acetone about 2 paint to 1 acetone, tape up the bottom of the doors,and pour it in. after an hour or two, take the tape off the drain holes, and clear them out so any water will drain out later.  The acetone thins the paint so it gets into tighter spaces, then evaporates off leaving just the paint.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

river1

What is this RUST stuff you fellas keep talkin about? :lol:  :?

later jim
Most people have a higher than average number of legs.

39deluxe

The local GM dealer used to do the oil spray when I was a kid. There was a few old ladies with '49/54 Chevys around town that were rust free when most were full of holes in the early '60s. (The cars were rust free, not the old ladies) They would mix some used motor oil with a little kerosene so it would spray. Then use a tank weed sprayer and coat the bottom of the car. They'd also take the trim panels loose to spray inside the doors and quarters, spare tire well ect.

Part of the deal was letting the car sit on the lift over night and cleaning up the floor the next morning. It was messy but very effective. Repeat every fall.

Tom

taxpyer

Ya know Frank now you've got me thinking. :shock:   POR15 products are great so,,,,,,,,, If you used their "marine clean" first inside the sealed door and slosh it around a bit, drain it out, then used their "prep&ready" product next doing the same thing I bet it would stop alot of future issues inside the bottom of doors. The best part you could paint or use filler for the complete repair. (just follow the directions on the cans) I've done a couple of gas tanks using these products and they work great. Maybe this would help keep these cheaper beaters alot of us rely on in use abit longer. :roll:
The rust-mort mentioned in the last posting is just another name for rust encapsulator.

Arnold,   I knew there was another one out there.......... :wink:
What\'s that noise?,,, Never mind,, I\'ll check it later

UGLY OLDS

Gee.....  I wonder if any of these idea's would help the brake lines on my truck  :?:  

 It's too late for the doors ..... Anything I poured into my doors would run directly out the bottom ...  :roll:   Drain holes ..  :?:    I think they were in the now gone door " bottoms ".... :?

Bob ....  :wink:
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****