What do you use?

enjenjo · January 22, 2012, 06:34:29 PM

You know those little projects you do that need painted. What do you use for paint? It can be a pain in the neck to mix up some paint and use the spray gun. If I have time, and it's a standard color I have it powder coated. If I am in a hurry and it's a standard color I use Sems etch prime, or Duplicolor etch prime. I like the Sems satin black trim paint for a topcoat, or Krylon dull silver. For gloss I usually use Rustoleum colors. They seem to hold up well. I use Nylic for a clearcoat when needed. Rustoleum has several shades of metallic gray that I use too.

WZ JUNK · January 22, 2012, 07:20:32 PM

I use Krylon for most everything and I have had very good luck with it. Duplicolor makes a factory color that matches the paint on the 54 and it is good for nuts and bolts and small things that need to match the car color but do not need to be perfect.

I use my paint shaker to shake the cans and I think that helps.

My local paint supplier sells a catalyzed clear coat in a spray can. You puncture a special fitting in the can with a tool supplied when you purchase the product. I sprayed the air dam on Hooley's Studebaker with it last year. The parts that he brought back, of what was left of the dam, still looked good and it had adhered well even thought the air dam was in pieces.

John

1800guy · January 22, 2012, 09:40:42 PM

Quote from: "enjenjo"You know those little projects you do that need painted. What do you use for paint? It can be a pain in the neck to mix up some paint and use the spray gun. If I have time, and it's a standard color I have it powder coated. If I am in a hurry and it's a standard color I use Sems etch prime, or Duplicolor etch prime. I like the Sems satin black trim paint for a topcoat, or Krylon dull silver. For gloss I usually use Rustoleum colors. They seem to hold up well. I use Nylic for a clearcoat when needed. Rustoleum has several shades of metallic gray that I use too.

What do you use to prime under the Rustoleum - Rustoleum primer or an etching primer?

crdnblu · January 23, 2012, 12:19:12 AM

For small projects, I've had the best luck with the Duplicolor products. I use their primers, acid-etch primers, finish, & clear-coats. I've found that for the best results, the "rattle-cans" should be warmed well in hot tap water, (just enough water to keep from floating the can), then shaken at least for 2-4 minutes B/4 spraying. This helps greatly in proper flow for good mist, or wet coats, as needed.

Additionally, I use a "pistol-grip" can attachment that can be found at most hardware stores; it gives you greater control to keep at the proper distance from what you're spraying, plus eliminates finger fatigue. I ALWAYS turn the can over after EVERY coat to clear the nozzle, so that the next coat goes on correctly. I also shake the can for a minute B/4 each coat.

phat rat · January 23, 2012, 09:14:32 AM

Krylon here also

Beck · January 23, 2012, 09:47:25 AM

I always mix the regular auto paint. My shortcut is spraying with a little Badger air brush. With only a 1oz jar the cleanup is much easier. I find these inexpensive air brushes online for about $15. I have not had much success with the spray bomb applications. Regular auto paint is always in my cabinet so I don't have to make a run to the local discount store.

41woodie · January 23, 2012, 09:54:33 AM

A couple of things, first here's a link to Tower Paint in Wisconsin. http://www.apstowerpaint.com/ They will custom mix spray cans with good quality paint in any color you can furnish a code for. Dupli-color is good for more common colors but doesn't have the more obscure or older colors.
I've used Tower on several occasions and never had a problem with color match as long as you get the correct code. It's really great for touch-up or shooting a small item. The cans are a little pricey but it's a good alternative if you don't have a good gun (or the ability to use it). Oh and they mail order and ship without problem.

The other thing is that I always put the spray can in a container of warm NOT hot water. I let it sit in the water for 15-20 minutes then remove it and wipe all of the water off, so it doesn't drip on the surface being painted, don't ask how I learned that.
I may be full of beans but I think that the warm water raises the temp in the can increasing the pressure in the can a bit. Seems like the paint atomizes better and improves the flow.
Of course putting the can in hot water could at worst be a danger to your health and at best could instantly change the color of the walls in the room your working in. The key word is warm not hot.

Digger · January 24, 2012, 06:40:18 PM

I'm a Krylon fan but I do use a lot of Rustoleums Hammertone paints for small parts, roll cages etc.

idrivejunk · January 25, 2012, 08:01:55 AM

I like U-POL aerosol etching primer and 1K clearcoat. SEM's etch primer is nice too. Any black spray paint will do but yes I like Krylon or DupliColor also. Personally I want to use high-heat engine paint on about anything. Theres a $16 a can stainless silver made by Seymour that is the best looking most durable silver I've ever seen. I generally dislike Rustoleum for automotive purposes. If the need is for actual body color, a PreVal aerosol sprayer can be used on small things. Many paint jobbers can put your color in a rattle can for ya. I only recently heard about the single use 2K aerosols that have become available. I hear they work pretty well. All that being said, I ain't a-feared of picking up a paint brush. Priming stuff with a roller can work pretty good too.