Steering parts by size

[GPster]

I bought replacement parts for the steering shaft on my '80 Jeep CJ7 to replace what it was put together with. Evidently it had been put together with the wrong pieces. I replaced the steering wheel with something that I had all the pieces for to get it centered and to get the horn to work. I got the steering box in mid arc (1 1/2 turns either way) and the arrow on the steering shaft pointed straight up. The horn wire goes through the place in the steering wheel like it's supposed to but the wheels don't point straight ahead. Turning the adjustment tube on the steering shaft I can get the wheels straight but then the tube only has about 1" grab on the threads of the tie rod end and the steering shaft. The adjustment tube is 4 1/2" long and the 11/16" 16 (18?) right/left threads. I don't know why this combination isn't working. It would work if I could find an adjustment tube that was 5 1/2" or 6" long because I bought new steering shaft and tie rod end. Anyone got a steering parts book that shows pieces by size rather than just application? GPster

[wayne petty]

do you have linkage like this???



there should be some kind of track bar..  or panhard rod to keep the front axle centered under the front suspension..

could that be mis adjusted..




i love the bar from the pitman housing to the other side of the frame..

must really stiffen up the steering...


This link should really help.. as it shows some of the variations on adjusting tubes by length...

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-steering-parts/cj5-cj7-cj8-scrambler.htm

here is the parts diagram from the above link...



i have a question...   do you have the old shaft still...

is it Phased the same as the new shaft...

there are different options for phasing of parts..

[wayne petty]

i did some late night digging..  might be too long..  but i went through each one i could find..


Part Number: NCP 2691121
Product Line: NAPA Chassis Parts
Attributes:
Left Hand Thread : 11/16" - 18
Male Thread or Female Thread : Female
Right Hand Thread : 11/16" - 18
Sleeve Length : 8.12

this one crosses to Duralast/Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve
Part Number: ES440S

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/ksm/ES440S/image/4/




Part Number: NCP 2691163
Product Line: NAPA Chassis Parts
Attributes:
Left Hand Thread : 11/16" - 18
Male Thread or Female Thread : Female
Right Hand Thread : 11/16" - 18
Sleeve Length : 9.63"


Part Number: NCP 2695077
Product Line: NAPA Chassis Parts
Attributes:
Left Hand Thread : 11/16" - 18
Male Thread or Female Thread : Female
Right Hand Thread : 11/16" - 18
Sleeve Length : 14.34


Part Number: RPC 25462
Product Line: Rare Parts Chassis
Attributes:
Contents : 1 Sleeve, 2 Clamps, 2 Bolts, 2 Lock Nuts
Length : 8.67"
Thread Size : 11/16"-18

[GPster]

I'm working with a similar parts diagram. When I ordered the replacement for #13 I ordered the replacement by length and the length checked out for the year and there was no explanation for the asteric.The other tie rod and the adjustment tube show the same for all years. Not knowing for sure what parts had been thrown together on this Jeep and what the asteric meant I just replaced parts with what it looked like was working. There is no cross stabilizer bar. I have returned it to stock height with new shackles. The only thing that could be out of adjustment would be if the "toe' is greatly "OUT". Unfortunately those replacement tubes are too long to help me. If I ordered the replacement #13 I'd only get approximately 3/8" thread purchase on either end of the tube. If I can't find a tube that is closer to 5 1/2" or 6" then maybe I can find a tie rod for the other side (RH thread) and gain some that way. As it stands with only about 1" of thread purchase for the pieces in either end of the adjustment tube I don't know if that's enough or not. GPster

[wayne petty]

can you see the DANA number stamped into one of the axle tubes near the housing???  it will be on the front....

post that.. i will reverse check the application..

http://thejeep.com/shop/images/danaaxleid.gif

i did see a newer item 13 that was an inch longer...

do you have the old part to match the length to?   can you examine the old parts threads to see how deeply it was threaded in?

getting the toe is critical in this too long too short issue...

was the short tie rod end the same length??? there are several lengths for that side possible..


using a tape measure 4 to 6 inches up from the ground between the front and rear of the tires...     but.. you will really need to rig some kind of TEE square... out of plywood scraps or 2x4  and a bungee cord to keep the middle sprung tight to keep the 2x4s against the inside of the tires..

you could even use 1 by 2s

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[GPster]

As near as I can tell it's the Dana 35 axel and this Jeep has the AMC rear axel in it. It has 10 bolts holding the cover on and the cover is round except it's flat on both side in line with the axels. There's no tag and nothing stamped on the front (cover) side. I threw the one tie rod end away and the long one I cut it off and cleaned up the long rod part and saved it because of the 11/16" 18 LH thread but I cleaned it so well I can't tell how far it was threaded in. On checking the "toe" I went up about 9" so I would get it about the lowest rim height because of the 31" tires on 15" wheels and it's showing about 1/8" toe in. I hate going to buy that longer #13 because I'd rather not start stocking Jeep spares especially parts that don't work on what I have. I bought this part probably 9 months ago and it's been mounted. It's a shame you can't find parts by size. GPster

[wayne petty]

the longer version is

Part Number: DS1070
Duralast/Tie Rod End
Price: $71.99

the link below the image only gets 26 bucks for them.. .

rock auto has ONE left for 44 bucks.. MDS1070...


do you have an 11/16 tap... where you might be able to just run a lot more threads down the shaft... so you could install it deeper into the longer sleeve..

somebody will have a left and right 11/16 tap... so a custom sleeve out of a solid tube with jam nuts instead of a clamp....

i think i would google shop the DS1070 .. which is the slightly longer version..  but its ONLY an inch longer..

but again.. this is on the drag link...     is the jeep sitting level...

was the new steering shaft clocked the same way..  a quarter turn is easily possible..  between some...

did you change the steering column..  

i am taking that the intermediate shaft was changed..

the pitman arm should only fit in one position.  i hope..

is there any chance the pitman shaft is twisted.. can you see the splines above the pitman arm..   are the like this |||     not twisted like this \\\  i have seen several boxes that were in accidents with the splines above the pitman arms twisted..

[GPster]

After my original question about the neutral safety switch the steering column appears stock. The intermediate shaft appears to be like the one in the parts diagram and with the Jeep returned to stock height the drag link is level. I buy parts from Morris in Florida and they're showing that other longer tie rod end at $26.00. My addition is that the two pieces are less than 3/4" different in length so that would only give me 3/8"more purchase on each thread. The pittman arm is not bent and it hasn't twisted on it's spline but that gives me another idea. At neutral  (centered) the pittman arm is in line with the steering box but the steering box is at an angle to the chassis and at an angle (other than 90 degrees) to the drag link. If I took a tooth or two out of the spline in the pittman arm at the locating spot I could relocate the pittman arm to 90 degrees to the pittman arm and gain an inch or so towards lessening my concern. Of course if I got one of those longer adjustment tubs and cut it shorter on the RH thread end I could just run a tap in it and make a working piece at the desired length. Of course it's too late to do anything tonight and I won't let it keep me awake. GPster

[wayne petty]

wait..   you can sleep with all this happening..   the most i can get is an 6 hour nap..

how about the brace across from the lower box mount to the other side..

is there any chance that the steering box mounting is loose .. or the box mounting brackets bent.. distorted..

after changing the springs around..  and dropping it..  could there be a problem with the centering of the axle under the jeep..

i would think that yes.. it might be annoying to drive with a wheel NOT centered...

why not try it for a few days.. by getting enough thread engagement on the drag link.. and setting the toe in...  

the drag link goes to the right tire...   have you eyeballed that tire to see if its running straight  by measuring the tire outer track front and rear..

so you are NOT setting the toe in with the front wheels in a trapazoid..

/T/---------------/T/
U______  __PA

where it should be like this..
|T|____________|T|
.U_______PA

by the way.. you are probably way ahead of me on all of this..


if you want to PM me your phone number.. i will drop you a call..  

when i am online.. my email is checked every 3 minutes..

[enjenjo]

I can make you an adjustment tube if you give me the length you want. I have the taps.

[GPster]

OK. I got nine hours sleep but it put me behind for replying to your suggestions. So I was out in my shop in my pajamas measuring.The steering box was tight in it's mounting and the mounts are not bent. My modifications to the front end were not to modify but return it to stock. My initial removal of the steering wheel was not to get the wheel centered but to get my coordinated challenged body in a better position to repair the under dash wiring. The tracking appears OK and the front axel is not offset by my measurement from hubs to frame rails. Now for a new guess.  CJ 5s and CJ 7s have different tread widths. Maybe someone swapped the narrower CJ 5 axels (front, rear) under this thing. This was originally a six cylinder vehicle with automatic transmission and power steering so it probably didn't have a "Crawler" differential ratio. Maybe CJ 5 stuff was put under it to help turn the 35" tires that were under it? Whatever I'll try to get Frank to build me a piece to make it work. GPster

[GPster]

I just ordered the longer tie rod end even though they tell me it's wrong. I checked back on the order for the other piece and I thought I had ordered both the long and short tie rod ends but I must have replaced the short one out of my stock. Maybe the short one is too short (tie rod that is). I ordered the short one too. I'll have enough pieces to make it safe and if/when it goes up for sale noone will have to wonder what junk I through together to build it. I've been putting together a little list of parts I needed and I got a ad for a 10% discount if I spent over $75.00. The 10% just covers the UPS. Now you can rest comfotably Wayne. Thanks GPster