Middle Jeep questions / problems

[wayne petty]

the how it looks like link is here


http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/07/fd/52/medium/0900c1528007fd52.gif



pump lever adjustment

Back off the idle speed screw to completely close the throttle plate.

Open the choke plate so that the fast idle cam allows the throttle plates to seat in their bores.

Make sure that the accelerator pump S-link is in the outer hole of the pump arm.

Turn the curb idle adjusting screw clockwise until it just contacts the stop, then, turn it 2 full turns more.

Measure the distance between the surface of the air horn and the top of the accelerator pump shaft. The gap should be 1 / 2 ".

To adjust the pump travel, loosen the pump arm adjusting lockscrew and rotate the sleeve until the proper gap is reached.

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but the metering rod lifter is not mentioned.. its like the APT adjustment on the quadrajet..

it is covered it the big pdf file...

it lifts the metering rods out of the jets as the throttle opens to enrich the fuel mixture ...   if the vacuum drops.. the metering rods pop up.. this is the power circuit..

with the metering rod lifter out of adjustment..  it will backfire through the carp.. pop...  run like crud..

get the rods adjusted too high.. the fuel mileage will suffer..

[GPster]

The shaded part of that cam on the bottom of it is the part I was wondering about. That picture doesn't show it with a purpose so maybe I'm just looking for something to worry about. That picture is also helpful because I'd not read any where how to adjust those cams yet as they do have slotted screw holes. I'm not concerned about gas mileage yet. I only want to drive it out near the street so people can see my GPSTER personalized plates. GPster

[wayne petty]

the shaded part of the bigger part... that lifts the metering rod holder..

is for your finger...  give it the finger...   when the screw is loosened..  you push lightly down on that to get the adjustment right...

i hope you have fallen into the pdf file about the bbd... there are 2 sections...

i will later today.. .. select and post the proper adjustment for the rod lifter...


must play street cleaning / car shuffle now..

[GPster]

Well I can only see one problem at a time. I didn't want to start my day at the junlyard looking for a 25 year old carburetor for parts so I tried my hand at fixing that broken screw. Brazed it back together with that drill bit in it to hold it straight. Minimal  problems getting the drill bit out but the screw was straight and after dressing the braze with a file I ran a 10 32 die on the threads. With this accomplished I was feeling pretty good about myself so I started to put the carb together. All the balls, springs and gaskets in place and when I started to put the cams on the accelorater pump rod I found why the metering rod assembly was in such a mess. There was only one arm on that cam and it was picking up the assembly on a strain. The only place that rebuilds carbs localy looked at me strangly with all my numbers, pictures and descriptions so tomorrow I'll be one day late at the junkyard. GPster

[wayne petty]

i have the core bbd on my desk...
the pump cam is gone.. and the rod lifter cam has a clamp around it...

one idle mixture screw is missing.. but

both booster venturi screws are there.. as are the metering rods.. i have not taken it apart yet...

one of the 2 plastic cams has been discontinued by the manufacturer..

so it might just be the Ebay version unless i can find my stash of them...  its a 2 day job to dig through every box in the storage room..


list the parts you need .. there is also a tiny spring on the rod lifter to hold the tops of the levers snug against the holder..

[GPster]

Putting my needs together I think I'll try the junkyard. The rod for the vacuum choke pull off is missing and this thing has been converted to a manual choke and if I can find an electric choke cover I'd like to go that way.There's enough of the electric circuit  for that carb and engine heater still in place yhat I might be able to use. That walker site you gave me shows that cam for only $5.76 but the BBD site is showing three choke pull off rods and I didn't go deep enough to find an electric choke. Maybe before the snow flies. GPster

[wayne petty]

perhaps this will clear things up...


the pdf file..

the carb i have is on digital page 4...   printed page 44...

1 1/4 divorced choke..

with the adjustable lift cams under the steel cover.. not the one on the first page or the next page..

no choke pull off rod.. item #6. the booklet shows part number R90... for that..
the other choke rod lifts the fast idle cam and is like #15 of which there are 3 versions... back on page 49...

don't forget .. every carb rebuilder uses walker products..  

http://www.walkerproducts.com/_pdf/carter2barrel.pdf


hope this helps...


now that i am looking at this.. i wonder if i can use this style of carb to retro fit holley weber 5200 style carbs with a slight modification to the bolt pattern..  hmm....

perhaps... just chuck the whole thing on a shelf...

http://cudist.com/Products/Category.aspx?Cat=Weber+Conversion+Jeep+258-2

[wayne petty]

just thought you might like to know.. i saw a carb shop and picked up a used pair of plastic cams if you end up needing them.


walker ask me how many of the discontinued parts i might want to place an order for..  if the tooling still exists..

[GPster]

Yesterday's visit to two junkyards and an old Mopar collecctor only produced one possible like carb. It was on a Dodge Magnum and there was so much extra pieces on it I wouldn't guess their condition (that and it had been under water). There are no carb re-builders within a 50 mile radius and the local shop that I visited the other day's service is to send them 100 miles away and charge you aditional for their trouble. So I ordered the piece I needed from Walker and the rod that you identified was the correct one (I have trouble identifing 3 dimensional objects in two dimensional drawings) so it's coming too. My carb is closest to the one on page 43 because it is less any extra components. Because the choke had been changed to manual I can't identify what worked it. The picture shows the choke housing with a threaded  (for a 1/4" ferrel fitting nut?) inlet but my housing has that part un-threaded and un-drilled. There are no indications of any choke mechanisms on the intake and no pictures in my repair manual that give any hints. This would not be a problem if I found the electric choke piece I want but thinking back it was on a marine AFB. With Edelbrock having captured that part of Carter maybe I'll have to go in that direction? I hope people are entertained by this discussion because I'm certainly taking up a lot of space. GPster

[wayne petty]

if you are talking about the choke thermostat... that looks like this... and its an electric choke..  no hot air hook up..

http://www.tomco-inc.com/admin/ProductImages/9133.jpg

1980 4.2L (C) 258" All (w/4WD) C-2 170-1578,1596,8132544,548 tomco choke thermostat #9133


it only fits the 1980 jeep carb...

http://www.tomco-inc.com/ProductDetailFromSearch.aspx?productId=12938

walker will probably have the same part available.. but looking that up would involve possibly getting up and walking across the room to pick up the 5 inch thick walker catalog binder. its heavy...


hmm... after reading the second manual of the BBD .. seems may have gotten the wrong vacuum rod lifter cam...  the one i got is for the 318.. not the super six carb..


the choke stuff is not needed to get it to run .. only to cold start it if you don't like feathering the gas pedal after frantic pumping..

[GPster]

The vacuum rod lifter cam in my carb is different than the one Walker is showing. I'm going to stick with the original. The original only has one hole so there would be no guessing which stroke to use. I checked on the internet for electric choke for Carter Edelbrock and there's no shortage of places to get them. I'll leave the manual choke in place until I'm near someplace to buy one. I looked on Walker's site last night for one so I could include it with the order, but no luck no further than I searched. The internet showed them for as low as $17.00 but then there would be shipping/handlimg. I saw them through Edelbrock so I may go that way. Our grand daughter lives less than 10 mile from SUMMIT and on a trip to visit her I'm sure it would be the cheapest purchase on the trip. GPster

[GPster]

walker ask me how many of the discontinued parts i might want to place an order for..  if the tooling still exists..

Sent that site for the 40 page printing to my wife's work for a professional job on someone elses' paper. That Mopar instructions will be very helpfull. They're showing different cams for the 225/6 and the 318/V8 and we know that the other cam has different strokes for the accellerator pump so they must be narrowing the choices down for all applications. The Mopar sheets give good explanation on setting those cams with an explanation of why. Between the instruction with the carb kit, Carter's instructions and those pages from Mopar I should be able to sort out what I want. Today is the day FedEx expects delivery. Walker shipped on 8/31 but with the holiday it made three moves in four days and it was still in California. GPster

[GPster]

Well, I got it running today and it started without any either. It will take me a while to sort out the running . It originally was designsd with various sensors to limit the vacuum advance to the distributor but part of those are missing and the pieces on the aircleaner will not be used so the vacuum advance comes directly from the carb. I haven't tried it idleing with it in gear yet so I can't tell how high the idle is . It does seem to take a while to settle back down after you gas it though. Still a few loose ends to take care of but now it should be tuning instead of troubleshooting. GPster

[GPster]

Well, it started right up today. One pump on the gas and no choke. In gear the idle is a bit high but looking at the idle adjustment it looks like it will go lower. When setting the accellerator pump action while rebuilding I was supposed to back-off on the idle screw completely and then set it at two turns and measure the top of the pump. So when I started it and started backing off on the screw I was concerned that it was idleing with the throttle blade completely closed. I must not have counted right. One more quick question. The valve cover has an air intake from the air cleaner and an outlet for the PCV valve to the carb. With all of the vacuum line eliminated it would clean up under the hood if I took the PCV from the other end of the valve cover. This is an AMC straight six. Does anyone see a problem with this? GPster

[enjenjo]

You will still need a breather on the valve cover, don't just plug it.