Performance brake rotors and pads

[29abone]

The front brakes on my '04 Grand Cherokee are pulsing like mad.  I am sure the rotors are warped, second set in 41,500 miles, both factory parts.  I noticed that the pads were thinner on the inside than the outside.  Does that indicate that the calipers are frozen or sticking??  What would you reccomend for quality or performance replacements?  What pads? At a reasonable price of course!!  Standard every day city driving.

Larry

[Rrumbler]

I've heard goods and bads about just about all aftermarket, as well as original manufacturer factory spec stuff.  My son put "muffler shop" brakes on a Honda we let him use when he was in college, and they replaced them four times on warranty after just a relative few miles; I finally took it to a factory authorized Honda shop, and they told me the only things that worked right on Hondas were Honda parts, or really expensive semi-custom racing parts that were designed to go together.  I kind of took that idea to heart, and have only used rotors and pads from the same manufacturer that were designed to be used as a set since then, and have had extremely few difficulties.  I'm in the process of getting some EBC rotors and pads for my Tundra DD, now; I have heard good things about EBC, and they seem to have  a well thought out set of parts match-ups.  That's the view from up here on my horse.  Other opinions may/will vary.

[Glen]

[quote="29abone  I noticed that the pads were thinner on the inside than the outside.  Does that indicate that the calipers are frozen or sticking??  )[/quote]

As a general rule......no, a thinner pad on one side does not indicate a frozen or sticking caliper.....it is not uncommon to see the inner wear quicker than the outer.

now if there is extreme differences on one caliper then yes.

[enjenjo]

I like Raybestos pads, the good ones are about $80 an axle set. More important than brand is proper break in. My dad had the same trouble, brakes pulsing in 12000 miles, twice. I did the next brake job, and had him bed them in as show here  http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml  And he has 50000 miles on this set still going strong.

[wayne petty]

a few things..... on repeated brake jobs... and warped rotors...

please.. while the rotors are off....   examine the hub face and the studs...

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/additional-prod-images/en/US/dur/DL513159/3/image/4/

the mounting face should be flat...   around the studs should NOT be raised around the stud...   stick a metal ruler across it next to the studs...

then examine the studs...  look at the threads near the face of the hub.. are they STRET C H E D out??? from over torquing..




please...  inspect the caliper support pin..  that it slides freely in and out of the caliper bracket...  opening.. i have found many rusted.. seized...

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/c19/14-1241/image/4/

these are the boots for the support bolts... fit into the caliper bracket.. keep the road splash out..     possibly fording depths also.. but there are steps to do if you get close to half the axle depth...

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/ibi/16124/image/4/


but... i have a serious question...

there have been reports of Death Wobble on these models..

does it shake all the way to the steering wheel..

or do you only feel it in the brake pedal....

is your jeep equipped with a straight front axle.. or Independent front suspension.. i have heard of death wobble from both types...

[wayne petty]

if you have a straight axle front suspension..


open the drivers window...    start the engine.. reach through the drivers window.. while looking at the front tires and the fender...

work the steering wheel back and forth. about 6 inches at the top of the steering wheel...   is there ANY SIDE TO SIDE  movement of the body over the axle..   i am not talking about the wheels turning.. i am talking that when the steering box tries to turn the wheel.. the body shifts sideways...

if it does.. put someone else in the drivers seat... have them rock the steering wheel back and forth about 6 inches .. . or the limit of the freeplay in the steering wheel...

this is done while you lay down under the front of the jeep and inspect the various parts for slack...

1.  the steering box pitman shaft where it comes out the bottom of the box..  does the shaft move side to side before it starts turning.. bad if it does more than almost nothing..

2..  the drag link ends.. and the tie rod ends...   the motion input should be instant..   not delayed..... where the tie rod end moves a fraction then the steering arm on the spindle..

3.   the panhard rod frame bracket... also known as the track bar bracket.. its mounted up under the steering box on the frame.. i have had the tie rod type of end on that come loose... wear.. and the bracket itself come loose from the frame on earlier models...

3B. the bushing end of the panhard rod/track bar...  if there is any play at all.. replace the track bar...

4.   you will want to test the hub and bearing assemblies for play...  these have also been known to cause problems.. on either suspension...

if you have independent front suspension .. like i think you might.. on an 04..   you will want to examine the freeplay in the rack and pinion..

you will want to examine the freeplay in the tie rod ends..

you will want to jack the suspension up by the lower control arm and use a LONG prybar or breaker bar wedged under the tire to test the ball joints for play... should be none..   sometimes this takes a pair of vice grips with a flexible locking support and a dial indicator like this

http://www.harborfreight.com/clamping-dial-indicator-93051.html

i usually try to get people to have 2 friends drive beside the jeep in question with the passenger observing the front suspension...

if it shakes back and forth..  track bar.. ball joints...

if the tire bounces up and down.. shocks or tire balance problem or both..

i know you did not ask for it...    but you ask for it.. !!!!  

[29abone]

);b( I want to thank everyone for their info.  I noticed while driving this morning that the brakes were much better.  I think the calipers are sticking and warping the rotors as they warm up.  I decided to go with EBC slotted rotors and green stuff pads, and Cardone rebuilt calipers and brackets.  All from Amazon for $270 for the front.

[jaybee]

I've gotten much better brake performance since I learned of "adherent friction" and have pretty well eliminated brake wobble or "warped rotors" since learning to cool the brakes after bedding.  If I've put just fronts on I'll even slow roll to the garage and make that last stop with the parking brake.

[t-bucket23]

Rotors usually fail due to 1 of 3 things

1 Improper installation (not cleaning the hub surface mating area)
2 Excessive heat, (improperly done brake job so pads are not releasing).
3 Improperly torqued wheels.

The procedure is just as important as the quality of the parts used.
We use all Wagner parts and seldom have any come back.