Electric Fan Recomendations Please!

[40]

Still working on the 37.......Decided to mock up the radiator today so I could get an idea of hose configurations etc and to my surprise.....I realized I don't have room to run a mechanical fan as planned.I used a BB firewall in order to set the motor mounts back a couple inches and thought sure I'd have room  :x  Anyway.....I ended up with only about an inch between the water pump pulley and radiator....so....I'm stuck running an electric pusher.I don't have any experience with electric fans but remember reading that a pusher set-up was the worst configuration so I would like some recommendations as to which brand,size etc you guys have used.I did a little research and the listed CFM and Amp draws are all over the place. Thanks!

[wayne petty]

http://www.spalautomotive.com/eng/products/axial_12.aspx


there is another catalog section.... that has the aftermarket section also..

summit also has listings with amp for this same brand..

if you are running power steering..

there are power steering fluid powered radiator cooling fans...

i don't know if anybody has ever run them... on a hot rod...

or how they are thermostatic controlled...

i think they were on toyota camrys in the early 90s... i could be wrong..

hydraulic fan diagnostics
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350970

probably more that most people want to get involved in...



by the way...  just in case... mercedes benz in the mid 80s through the mid 90s.. used some HIGH power 11 blade aux fans in pusher configuration that work really well...   for the benz application..

these are for 190 models and others... 201 chassis..

http://12.153.160.115/images/catalog/full/0005006093MY.jpg

this is for a 93 500 sel...

http://12.153.160.115/images/catalog/full/0015000593.jpg

[1800guy]

If you are on a budget like I am, check out your local pic-a-part for a big Mercedes-Benz.  I looked at a lot of fans that didn't impress me much, but for a fan that was not designed to be a universal fit, these are very easy to work with.  A lot of the fans I looked at were integrated into the radiator shroud in such a way that it would be hard to eliminate.  I haven't figured the amp draw yet since I'm still putting the car together - I'll do that before choosing a relay and fuse.

[wayne petty]

i wish i had access to a vertical mill... so i could cobble out some prototypes of timing covers for remote water pumps for small blocks and big blocks..

ever see a transverse 3.1 chevy V6 with the water pump up in front of the left side cylinder head... driven off a single belt.. is my idea...

even if its just a bridge over the top of the existing timing cover with a water pump out of the way...

could even be a water pump on each side..  and a fan blade and pulley mount hanging over the middle....

this would make some serious room..

i hope the fan links work for you ...

and i hope i did not BLOW you away with this overload of info...

[Mikej]

Daryle, are going to have A/C?  You might look at a unit that has dual fans. Also some of the new controls use the eng. temp. sensor. The control can be put inside the car. Look at Spal. I think they might even be made in Iowa. (ankeny)

[crdnblu]

Before answering, can you remind us regarding what engine you're running?  If it's a SBC, do you have a long or short water pump?  Also, some pics would be helpful, showing the front of your installed engine.  AC, too?

Regardless, don't forget to block off the "V" space between the grille, & the radiator, to insure that all incoming air will move through your radiator.  Sometimes, this will require a radiator lowering kit.  I've installed a Legens piece in my '37, along with their radiator lowering kit.  [pic]

[crdnblu]

The pic file size was too large; let's try this again:

[40]

Ok......I'm running a pretty stout 350.....similar built motors from this shop run between 400/410 HP on their dyno. No A/C in this one.I already have a short aluminum water pump installed.I think part of the problem is that I'm using a Don's Hotrod Custom Grill.....The divider bars are flat steel as opposed to the stock,almost round,dividers and are lots thicker/wider especially at the top and the radiator had to be mounted inward a couple inches from the stock mounting holes to allow for the rest of the front sheetmetal to align correctly.I'm also using Don's cover which is nearly identical to the above photo.I also am using the stock deflector to force the air upward toward the radiator.The Autowire harness that I'm in the process of installing has a fan relay and I'll probably use a 180 degree sensor to turn it on and off.The air surface on the radiator is 16" wide X 22" tall......It looks like my choices are a 16X16 single or a pair of 11"X11" fans. The 16" covers a bit more area of the finned surface but with the twin 11" fans I would have a spare so to speak if one failed.Decisions,decisions ,decisions...............

[1800guy]

Don't forget that after taking all the steps to bring air to and through the radiator, that now-hot air has to leave the engine compartment to make way for more incoming air.  

You say you have flat grill bars - hopefully the narrow edge is what faces the incoming air.

[crdnblu]

With the Don's grille, did you install their radiator lowering kit as well?  I ask because the pic that I included above is actually a Don's piece (B/4 Legens bought them out), & I used their radiator lowering kit with the associated hood side brackets.
On my '37 I'm using a Walker radiator, with condensor for AC, and there is still room for a bladed fan, even though my 350 SBC sits in front of a stock '37 firewall.  My frame is a TCI, using their factory located engine mounts.  It's snug, but it works.

Additionally, I'm running two (2) SPAL 10" fans in front of the evaporator, controlled by a heat sensor, or AC compressor "on" signal.  [No room for 11" fans, due the added radiator/condensor thickness.]  (pic)

[40]

Don't forget that after taking all the steps to bring air to and through the radiator, that now-hot air has to leave the engine compartment to make way for more incoming air.  

You say you have flat grill bars - hopefully the narrow edge is what faces the incoming air.

The grill bars lay flat and are probably made from 1/8" stock.....I retained the original louvered inner fenders though modified to clear the A-arms and also am using the original louvered hood sides.....that should get the warm air out I hope.....It has on the other 1/2 dozen 37's I've done.

[40]

With the Don's grille, did you install their radiator lowering kit as well?  I ask because the pic that I included above is actually a Don's piece (B/4 Legens bought them out), & I used their radiator lowering kit with the associated hood side brackets.
On my '37 I'm using a Walker radiator, with condensor for AC, and there is still room for a bladed fan, even though my 350 SBC sits in front of a stock '37 firewall.  My frame is a TCI, using their factory located engine mounts.  It's snug, but it works.

Additionally, I'm running two (2) SPAL 10" fans in front of the evaporator, controlled by a heat sensor, or AC compressor "on" signal.  [No room for 11" fans, due the added radiator/condensor thickness.]  (pic)

Just realized while out in the shop that this car has a small block firewall....then....It clicked and I remembered I bought this car as a started project and the firewall was already tacked into place.I then remembered that it was the last 36 Coupe I built that we used the BB firewall and set the motor mounts back......It sucks to have such a poor memory :x  With the smaller recess in the firewall and the extra depth of the grill.....I'm sure that is where I lost the room I thought I'd have :?
   I didn't use their radiator lowering kit or their brackets.....I fabricated a mount to lower the radiator and I fabricated a bracket set-up to bolt everything together in order to eliminate the support rods from the firewall to the radiator.Now that I have the radiator mocked up.....I see that the lower hose is aiming directly at my steering rack.....Oh what fun!!