Loose valve guide

[junkyardjeff]

I did not want to mess with them again and replaced all the springs,they were only a little over 2 dollars a piece and a cheap repair.  From now on when a head is pulled all new springs are going in.

[junkyardjeff]

Still trying to get this motor to run what I think is right,I have never been happy with it ever since I got it on the road.   Its always had a little sputter out the pipes kind of like a burnt valve but its got 150 psi on all six cylinders so I have been doing some tinkering to see if I can get it better,I tried setting the timing with a vacumn gauge since I cant see the ball on the flywheel and had the rattle appear again.    I think the rattle is spark knock and backed the timing back some and it has a better sound out of the exhaust but still has the occasional sputter,I always used regular and wil start using a better grade of gas since its crappy now.  I am thinking about getting GMC Bubba on the Hamb to build me a electronic distributor for it since a fairly new condensor went bad and all the new points and condensors I bought in the last few years dont last as long as they used to.

[bowtietillidie]

I hope I don't offend any one ........    But I don't see how any one can repair any thing Car or other wise with out establishing a base line to work from.  With this engine I would leave no stone unturned encluding the stones that have already been looked at.    With this all being said .   Here is what I would do to establish my base line.  1 Warn up the engine , remove the valve cover , remove all spark plugs  Remove coil high tension wire, Remove air breather Tie the throttle wide open, make sure the chock is held wide open . Next I would do a compression check , take a piece of note book paper . at the top of the paper  I write numbers 1 thru six  from left to right. Now I start my compression check  plug my tester into number cylinder hold tester in place turn engine over with the starter at least ten rev's  record test results for number under number one  . do the remaining cylinders and record each reading.   Now get a squirt can co oil  start the test all over again but add three or four squirts of oil to each cylinder  record as before but put the test results of the second test under the first test .  Now you can look at the compression test and see if there is any difference between the two tests  . If there is no difference between the tests the engine is in good shape as far as rings and Valves go. But if the test shows an increase in compression of more then 15%between any cylinders  you have bad rings . If you have cylinders that show low compression (10%) you have bad valve guides. Before we go any further check once again to make sure the chock and throttle are still in the wide open position .Next I check the valves as was disgusted in an earlier post . Next I would remove the rocker arms  checking for worn rocker arm shaft bushings . Then checking rocker arm tips and valve stem tips for flatness (Good place to find that clicking noise) next check those spark plugs with a BIG magnetize Glass
Look for unburned oil up inside the plug porcelain.  If you don't like the looks of the plugs replace them.   Now check the porcelain resistor on the fire wall with a multimeter   should be 12 volts in to the resistor and nine or a little lest coming out to the positive side of the coil  and nine or a little less going to the positive side of the coil   Now check the lugs on the wires going to and coming from the resistor continue from the coil to the distributor  check for worm bushings excessive vertical movement  Check plug wires with multimeter If plug wires show more than1000ohms replace Look closely at dist cap for corrosion and carbon tracking replace as needed  . Armed with this information you have a fair base line established  Now when you do something and you can't tell or don't think it made a difference you can look at your base line and go back to it just remember to record what you have tried that didn't like or think didn't work  .    This sounds like a long drawn out process  but once you start using a base line things will work in your favor much quicker than before   Gotta to go soak my index finger under cold water it's on fire from one finger typing

[Rrumbler]

Bowtietilidie is right.  When we think the problem might be in square 27, and it doesn't work, we often try 26, or 28; but when that doesn't do the trick, maybe it's time to go back and start at square 1.

[junkyardjeff]

I finally got to take it on a highway drive today and when I got back I checked a couple plugs and its running lean and I think the rattle I heard was spark knock,the throttle shaft on the carb is worn and found a good base on a parts carb but since I have two carter YFs so I will see if they are jetted to the size I think I need and if they are I will rebuild one and see how it does. My 1958 motors manual says its supposed to have 130 psi for compression and it has 150 so the compression has been raised during the rebuild so it might be time for a better grade of gas,since I never could find the timing ball on the flywheel i think i have been running it with too much advance plus being on the lean side.