Essex rebuild.

Boyd Who · December 14, 2010, 10:41:35 PM

Chimp...that padded dash worked well for the truck when it was first built, but my vision takes it back to an early 60's style build. The old owner gave me his blessings to do with it what I wanted, which was cool. We're still good friends and I was a bit concerned with what he would think.
As for the firewall, I should be able to go back to a stock flat one. There's a ton of room in the engine bay for a V8 without cutting the firewall at all.

Jim...did I really complain that much??

Tonight I did a bit more dissassembly. It's now a highboy on the passenger side.

The Corvair front end install is pretty scary. The more I look at it the more I want to tear the whole thing out and install a dropped axle.

I also cleaned all the old dash plaques and stickers off the dash rail. I managed to get the plaques off without bending them and will create a small display to honour the truck's past.

jaybee · December 15, 2010, 07:10:11 AM

Ummm, wow. That strap steel brace in pic 3 of the suspension shots...seriously? Yeah, you have my vote to pull that suspension out or beef it up.

Crosley.In.AZ · December 15, 2010, 07:38:55 AM

I would vote for a tube or beam axle install to replace the corvair stuff. A little frame repair is needed around the current steering box location

mrloboy · December 15, 2010, 07:50:06 AM

Quote from: "Boyd Who"
The Corvair front end install is pretty scary. The more I look at it the more I want to tear the whole thing out and install a dropped axle.

What is the wheelbase of your truck? I am thinking a Model "A" style 2x4 tubular frame would be a simple and inexpensive replacement and easy to swap in a dropped axle in front and 4-link or hairpins front and back. I have a few in my shop right now if you want to look at them and I would be happy to help you with building one to suit your needs. One Saturday with you cutting and me welding, we could throw one together.

Boyd Who · December 15, 2010, 08:01:39 AM

Yeah, isn't that just the coolest install you've ever seen?

It did manage to hold up ok although it's incredibly ugly.

I'm not sure of the wheelbase, Rick, but I'd like to keep the '30 Chevy frame if I can. Everything bolts up nicely to it and aside from the front mess it's in great shape. I appreciate the offer, though. I'm really leaning towards a parallel-leaf dropped tube axle as a replacement front end. I just have to determine if I need a 4" or a 6" drop as I want the front end a bit lower than it currently sits. Are you able to order stuff like that when I'm ready to take the plubge or should I contact Speedway myself?

Boyd Who · December 15, 2010, 08:01:47 AM

Yeah, isn't that just the coolest install you've ever seen?

It did manage to hold up ok although it's incredibly ugly.

I'm not sure of the wheelbase, Rick, but I'd like to keep the '30 Chevy frame if I can. Everything bolts up nicely to it and aside from the front mess it's in great shape. I appreciate the offer, though. I'm really leaning towards a parallel-leaf dropped tube axle as a replacement front end. I just have to determine if I need a 4" or a 6" drop as I want the front end a bit lower than it currently sits. Are you able to order stuff like that when I'm ready to take the plunge or should I contact Speedway myself?

mrloboy · December 15, 2010, 08:13:43 AM

Quote from: "Boyd Who"
I'm really leaning towards a parallel-leaf dropped tube axle as a replacement front end. I just have to determine if I need a 4" or a 6" drop as I want the front end a bit lower than it currently sits. Are you able to order stuff like that when I'm ready to take the plubge or should I contact Speedway myself?

I can't save you anything. Speedway would be the ticket in my opinion. If you need some help, give me a call. Rick

Cword · December 15, 2010, 10:36:22 AM

Fourth time.

GPster · December 15, 2010, 11:26:06 AM

I agree with your going back to a straight axle with dual springs. Maybe it might help to have the frame stiffened though because there might be less flexibility in that type of suspension. I boxed an early '30s Chevrolet frame for a guy one time and I did it a little differently. For no higher than the sides of the frame channel was I thought it was kind of narrow and the normal style of boxing would not have made that dimension any wider plus the rolled edge of the outside of the frame channel would be clash with the sharp boxed edge on the inside. We had a local metal supplier that had a metal brake that could handle fairly heavy gauges. I had them bend me some channel out of 1/8" that had an outside dimension just slightly smaller than the inside dimension of the frame's channel (example 4" x 1/8" = 3 3/4"). The frame I was working on was flat on the top and where it tapered on the ends I pie cut the boxing channel so that it could follow it The frame's inside dimensions. Then I installed the fabricated channel in the frame and welded the edges of the frame to the sides of the fabricated channel. It gave me a fabricated rectangular tube frame of similar to what GM used in later years and it was done with the body still on the frame sitting on the suspension. I'd maybe check with "Posie's" and see if they make springs with maybe some drop that could be usedhere. I also have a lead on someone that drops axles by heating/stretching and he does it as a business and has fixtures built for some GM axles. The guy I boxed the frame for had his axle dropped. He ad an ex-wife that lived in Stockton and she convinced Mor Drop to drop the axle for him. This was done in the early '80s when the ownership of the company was a mystery and they ruined the axle. Ford axles are forged and GM axles were cast and the kingpin inclination is different. They stretched the axle in Ford fixtures that were for single leaf spring with wishbones rather than dual leaf suspension and the wrong king pin inclination. We had it saved here locally by a machine shop that is old and capable of some "Black Smithing". You of course could build a custom length frame and stretch the cab. Looking at pictures of your past accomplishments I'm sure you're never at a loss for ideas. GPster

Boyd Who · December 18, 2010, 08:14:00 PM

That's an interesting way to box the frame, GPster. I'll look into that when the time comes. I'm still on the fence with the front suspension. Part of me wants to go early Ford style with a dropped I-beam axle and split wishbones, and part wants parallel leaf with a dropped tube axle. Once I get the truck down to the bare frame I'll make a decision.

Today I removed the p/u box. I tried to get it off in one piece but the way it was assembled I had to tear it apart. I have plans to put a different box on it anyway. Once the box was off I was able to get the drivers side fender & running board assembly off. Tomorrow I'll haul everything over to my storage building then I'll start getting the engine trans ready to be removed.

Does this make the truck a rat-rod? I found the poor guy under the box...looks like he's been there awhile.

What's left of the box. I'm going to hang the tailgate up on the wall at some point.

Boyd Who · January 25, 2011, 11:22:49 PM

Sorry about the lack of updates, I've been under the weather for a few weeks.

A buddy came over tonight and we yanked the engine & trans out of the Essex chassis. He's a slant-6 fanatic so I gave him the engine & trans to use in his next project.

It's a good thing we took the truck off the road when we did...the engine cradle was ready to fall out of the truck!

The torched part in the center of the cradle was for oil pan clearance. Note the drop on the right side where the crossmember cracked by the tower. :eek:

Here's a better shot of the crack.
Gotta love 70's back yard engineering. The engine cradle was welded to the piece of channel, which was in turn welded to the stock front crossmember. That weld broke and the whole assembly was held in by gravity and the little strip of metal between the cracks. Scary stuff!!

Cradle removed after I broke the weld by wiggling it up and down a few times.

I'm wondering if I can modify the stock Chevy crossmember to mount a Ford tranverse leaf front end to. The shape looks like it would work, and the small bolt hole in the center is lined up perfectly to center the axle under the front fenders. I'd just need to enlarge the hole a bit for the spring bolt and make provisions for the spring clamp. Any thoughts from the members?

Overall shot of the chassis sans the drivetrain.

The next step is to cut the Corvair front end out, take the running board brackets off, and send the frame out for sandblasting.

mrloboy · January 26, 2011, 08:58:44 AM

Quote from: "Boyd Who"I'm wondering if I can modify the stock Chevy crossmember to mount a Ford tranverse leaf front end to. The shape looks like it would work, and the small bolt hole in the center is lined up perfectly to center the axle under the front fenders. I'd just need to enlarge the hole a bit for the spring bolt and make provisions for the spring clamp. Any thoughts from the members?

Hi Al,
Glad to hear your feeling better and back out in the shop. The project is coming along nicely. The frame looks to be in great! I really like the direction you are going on that neat little truck.

Will the front cross member be utilized for more than a spring mount? Does the radiator or cradle mount to it? Also check the thickness of the material the crossmember is stamped from. If it is under 3/16" thick, I would recommend replacement. The original Chevy member was not designed to support the front of the car in the center like a Ford system is.

If you choose to replace it, I would be happy to cut out a new one on my CNC plasma table. It is quick and easy! Give me a call if I can be of help. Rick

enjenjo · January 26, 2011, 11:46:19 AM

If I was going to install a cross spring, I would look at using a Model A crossmember. It should be a pretty close fit.

GPster · January 26, 2011, 12:37:18 PM

Remember that if you go with a straight axle with a single spring you'll need a wishbone. It looks to me like those splash aprons/running boards tuck closely to the sides of the frame. Maybe you should set them back on the frame to make sure that you'll have enough room under them for mounts and the angle of the radius rods to the axle. You might also think if that change in the suspension might need to have "Boxed" frame rails. GPster

Boyd Who · January 26, 2011, 05:50:52 PM

Rick...the only thing that mounts off the crossmember right now is the rad shell. It looks like the whole chassis is made from 1/8" steel, not 3/16". I can easily adapt rad mounts to a different crossmember if need be. I'll look into a Model A unit first to see if it will work for me. If not, I'll be in touch.

GPster...I will definitely be boxing the frame on this beast. I also want to build a custom K-member around the transmission area for strength. As for the running board brackets, the front ones are a good 49" back from the axle centerline so I shouldn't have any interference issues with split wishbones.