17/32 6 Point 3/8 drive socket. Any ideas on whereabouts?

Arnold · December 03, 2010, 03:01:11 PM

Thank you!

Or else any ideas on removing rusted bolt head/nuts that lol..where 9/16 and now are so sloppy with a 9/16 socket (I have many brands and tried them all) that noone would even attempt that. I had to resort to my pile of worn/chewed up hammer on sockets haha to get these out. Finally found a worn 13mm that I hammered on and removed them.

These were the driver side w.pump bolts on my 1994 1 ton 350 van. Original pump. Psgr side was no problem.

I would REALLY LIKE!! a couple of 17/32 3/8 drive 6 point sockets that would make the next time I have to do this tolerable.

I did try and do a google but it was just too confusing. Could not find any.

Thanks..

UGLY OLDS · December 03, 2010, 06:42:29 PM

I too, just use metric sockets when that happens ...Or HF/Garage sale "Hammer on" specials ...

Bob..................

wayne petty · December 03, 2010, 06:49:21 PM

page 98 of this 17 meg pdf file..

http://www.stanleyproto.com/default.asp?TYPE=STATIC&PAGE=literature/ProtoCatalog_P20800_SocketsDriveToolsandAccessories.pdf

but its 12 point.... 17/32 ... not 6 point...

proto # J5217 17/32" 3/8" drive standard depth chrome socket

california tool co in los angeles may have them in stock... if they don't have it.. they are slow to get it... they only order big factory orders usually... as they keep a fairly good stock.. and close tabs on it..

1929 South Figueroa Street
Los Angeles, CA 90007-1392
(213) 747-6211

this place is so big.. the stock pullers wear roller skates...

two places online list it...

http://www.servicesupply.net/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=U1017927

and one at amazon..

http://www.amazon.com/Proto-J5217-12pt-Standard-Socket/dp/B002QN676A

17/32 .53125
14mm .5511811
9/16 .5625

Rrumbler · December 03, 2010, 09:00:42 PM

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

These work better than anything I have come across, except for vise grips, but these will get where a plier can't. They also have them in impact grade - for twice the price. I know you can buy a lot of cheap sockets for thirty bucks, but I just got tired of messing with that, and bought a set of these several years ago.

UGLY OLDS · December 04, 2010, 10:58:12 AM

NEAT !!!!!!

Those are now on my "Santa List" ......

Thanks Rrumbler ........ :!:

Bob...............

Arnold · December 04, 2010, 12:13:56 PM

Thanks!..
I did know of these..but don't have any YET. In this particular app. there was barely enough room for a 3/8 reg socket. I doubt whether they would have fit.

Speaking of these types of sockets..there is also a pin type of socket. A bunch of hardened pins inside the socket slides over whatever it can. I have never used one of these and don't know much about them.

Our Cdn..Canadian Tire also has some new types of these sockets. They have some sort of cam locking device inside the socket. Again..I know little of these.

In this app..I was pretty sure I was risking splitting the block where the w. pump bolts go through(been there done that). I was tempted to pull whatever off I had to to get an impact in there. I risked it and did get the bolts out. The heads on the bolts were twisted in relation to the shank. Borderline breaking.

There must be a 17/32 6 point 3/8 drive somewhere. I actually have a 1/4 drive..but it for sure would have broken.

Maybe I'll do the math and see if there is some Whitworth..BFW..or F..of whatever. SORRY for swearing..back to my British motorcycle days.

Hey..a learning situation. Ya stick your 9/16 socket in there to take out the driver side w. pump to block bolts. LOL..no bolt head. Hunh?? The rust/rot had actually bridged from the bolt head to the w.pump boss. Some serious scraping/poking JUST to find the bolt head haha.

Rofl..just trying to get my moneys worth out of my 17 y/o work van. Who wouldda thunk that maybe one day I would have to fix it.

Thanks again...

wayne petty · December 04, 2010, 08:32:23 PM

do you have a welder?

? wire feed or stick?

i had a former boss who would weld nuts to the top of rounded off bolts to get them out..

he used to weld nuts to the flats on double U joints that were assembled with injected plastic to slide hammer the cups out while the plastic was melted from the heat of welding..

do you have a roll pin assortment... that you can select one that will slide into the drive opening of a socket to use as a drill guide... so you can slip a few washers over the drill bit... a spring.. some more washers... the socket with the roll pin .. so you can drill straight down the center of the head of the bolt.. the spring holding the socket against the head of the bolt... the drill bit right down the center of the roll pin...

the washers stop the spring from catching on the various parts and direct ...

i take it that the water pump is trash anyway...

if not... how about removing everything in the way.. and using a sawzall to cut the sides of the water pump and cut off the bolts leaving an inch or so sticking out of the block... then you could use a stud extractor or a pair of vice grips to unscrew the stub... you only have to cut just more than half way through the leg of the pump to sever the bolts to free the pump from the front of the block...

one might want to go fishing with a magnet epoxied a rod loop... to try to collect any steel and iron fragments that might have fallen into the block..

be sure if you do this... to try to return the old pump as a core... just to see their faces when they look at it at the store..

you could also grind the chrome off the back end of the 1/4" drive socket... clamp that and a grade 8 nut together in a vice to keep them square and lined up.. weld the nut to the bottom of the smaller socket... this would allow you to use a conventional sized socket to drive the smaller socket.. i cannot help if the front of the socket splits... but it would allow additional torque to be applied..

if you only weld to the outside... you still might be able to use the socket on a 1/4" extension...

i did this with a spark plug insert tap for a 2.2 chevy. by having the local muffler shop weld a coupling nut that had a 5/8 hex size to the tap totally straight... this allowed me to use the 5/8 spark plug socket to run the tap in.. and out.. before installing the solid inserts...

Arnold · December 07, 2010, 09:26:12 AM

Quote from: "wayne petty"do you have a welder?? wire feed or stick?

Thanks Wayne..a wealth of info!

I got it off by hammering on a worn 13mm socket.

No welder..but I know of welding nuts etc. Great idea about those u joints that were assembled with phenolic resin..I think that is right.

i had a former boss who would weld nuts to the top of rounded off bolts to get them out..

he used to weld nuts to the flats on double U joints that were assembled with injected plastic to slide hammer the cups out while the plastic was melted from the heat of welding..

do you have a roll pin assortment... that you can select one that will slide into the drive opening of a socket to use as a drill guide... so you can slip a few washers over the drill bit... a spring.. some more washers... the socket with the roll pin .. so you can drill straight down the center of the head of the bolt.. the spring holding the socket against the head of the bolt... the drill bit right down the center of the roll pin...

the washers stop the spring from catching on the various parts and direct ...

i take it that the water pump is trash anyway...

if not... how about removing everything in the way.. and using a sawzall to cut the sides of the water pump and cut off the bolts leaving an inch or so sticking out of the block... then you could use a stud extractor or a pair of vice grips to unscrew the stub... you only have to cut just more than half way through the leg of the pump to sever the bolts to free the pump from the front of the block...

one might want to go fishing with a magnet epoxied a rod loop... to try to collect any steel and iron fragments that might have fallen into the block..

be sure if you do this... to try to return the old pump as a core... just to see their faces when they look at it at the store..

you could also grind the chrome off the back end of the 1/4" drive socket... clamp that and a grade 8 nut together in a vice to keep them square and lined up.. weld the nut to the bottom of the smaller socket... this would allow you to use a conventional sized socket to drive the smaller socket.. i cannot help if the front of the socket splits... but it would allow additional torque to be applied..

if you only weld to the outside... you still might be able to use the socket on a 1/4" extension...

i did this with a spark plug insert tap for a 2.2 chevy. by having the local muffler shop weld a coupling nut that had a 5/8 hex size to the tap totally straight... this allowed me to use the 5/8 spark plug socket to run the tap in.. and out.. before installing the solid inserts...