Car sits too high after rebuild

Started by Leon, November 13, 2010, 10:59:28 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Leon

I picked up a 68 Fairlane wagon CHEAP and am doing some work on it.  I replaced all the major stuff on the front end, upper and lower arms, spring perch, shocks, tie rods, idler arm, brakes, etc.  After I was done I lowered the car, rolled it forward and back, bounced it up and down, and it sits too high.  The car used to sit level, now it's high in front and the control arms are angled down which makes it a little hard to set the camber.  I'm able to get it within range, but at the one end of the adjustment.  If the car drops down, the camber shifts to where it should be so I can adjust it about where it was before.
The only thing I can think of is the old shocks were about nonexistant, and the new ones I had to compress a bit to get them in because they're gas charged.  I'm thinking it's hard to believe that it's not enough to lift the front that much (I'm thinking 2 - 3 inches) but maybe....
The car doesn't look right the way it sits and the suspension is riding high.  If I have to I can cut a half of a coil but it sat fine before.  I measured the parts I replaced and everything looks the same.  I rechecked and both springs are seated in the upper perch where they should be.  I haven't taken anything off the car that would have made the front end lighter.

Maybe I just drive it a bit and see if it settles?

Jokester

Did you tighten up the upper arm bushings before you set the car on the ground?  If so, loosen the bolts a turn or two and drive it around the block.  Then re-tighten the bolts.

My 2 cents.

.bjb
To the world you\'re just one person; but to one person, you might be the world.

Leon

The bushings are assembled from the factory and the shaft bolts to the car.  I could turn the shaft by hand before it was installed.  The bushing on the lower arm isn't tight yet and before I hooked it to the spindle it would drop under its own weight.  I don't see anything binding.

wayne petty

the new spring perches usually have a rubber seat....  the spring perch bushings are also not compressed....

warning... if the suspension is out of alignment...   it can create an artificial height problem..  as the front wheels roll forward and the toe in lifts the car...

got any greased  sheet metal sheets to put under the suspension. even just one side...

it is totally possible that the Gas shocks are also lifting the suspension slightly..


i am taking that you also have one of the proper spring compressors for this model...
OEM/Coil spring compressor
Part Number:   27035
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/grn/27035/image/4/

there are also plans out there for a upper control arm brace.. that you insert to hold the upper control arm up for suspension work... makes life easier on these...  easy to fab..   i should have the local welding shop make some for me .. out of scrap they are going to throw away...     i love doing that.. asking them to make something for me.. dragging material for it out of the scrap bin..



i have found other problems with these front suspensions...
where the ride is like a brick... as the shocks are to long and the rod is not centered...  i cobbled this together for a friend as i don't have access to a lathe to carve one...  i did have to grind the head flat on the carriage bolts to fit in the limited area...





you did not mention changing the springs.. so i am taking that you have the originals...    did the upper part of the spring get on its seat????    there are also from energy suspension urethane upper spring seats/ insulators..

i have also found that at least on my ranchero.. when i was done.. the suspension was to low... i used the spring compressor to lift the spring off the perch.. pulled the perch and knocked out the knurled bolts.. replaced them with slightly longer grade 8 bolts.. and inserted several grade 8 flat washer under the perch..  this gave me the ability.. although hard to do.. to fine tune the front ride height... without needing to buy more springs...


you could always do the shelby drop... redrill the upper control arm mounting  holes in the inner fender...  remember.. it moves the arm slightly to the rear also.. and makes getting your exact ride height more work....

i hope i have helped with my misguided wondering and pondering...

Leon

I did reuse the original springs and since the seat insulator pieces looked like new I reused then also (made it easier to get the springs on the upper perch).   I can't remember what the ride hieght looked like before I hooked up the upper shock mount, but when I get home that would be a quick and easy thing to check.  I haven't measured it with a tape, but it looks like the front is about 2" higher than it was before.  Since it is a wagon, it wasn't low to begin with and it makes it look even higher now.  I'll have to play with it next weekend, if anyone else has any ideas for me to check, fire away.  Also, since I have the alignment close, I may just drive it around a bit and see what happens.

UGLY OLDS

Loosen the LOWER inner control arm bushing bolts a turn or so....( Make SURE the bolt turns freely in the bushing) ..Disconnect the shock & loosen the big radius arm bushings a turn or so...Bounce the front end a few times ...When it settles ,tighten the lower inner control arm bolt & then the radius arm bushings ..install the shocks ..... :idea:


Bob..... :wink:
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****