Garage floor paint

[48builder]

Hey guys,
I can't remember the last time I posted. I have been on the road for my company most of the last 2 years, but now I'm home and ready to get back working on my car. I also retired from the National Guard this week after 32 years so I'll have at least one more weekend a month to work. I've been busy getting caught up on my home projects so I can spend the winter on the car.

One of the things I'd like to do before winter is paint my garage floor. I've painted the walls, bought a nice new tool box, put up new shelves, and now I want to make the floor look nice.

I'm thinking about using a PPG product called Amerloc. It's a solvent-based 2-part epoxy. They tell me it's very good. They also tell me I should scarify the floor before painting it. I can rent the machine for $200 or pay a guy $450 to do that for me. I'm concerned about the floor being slippery after painting, since with all the snow we get here the floor is wet most of the time in the winter.

Can you guys give me any advice on floor prep, etc?

Thanks in advance

Walt

[54stude]

Look at dura-poxy on this site.
http://www.concrete-floor-coatings.com/

I helped a friend do his garage floor, and I think this product is the way I would go if I was to coat my own garage floor.

This product is clear, and 100% solids, and after you roll it out wet, you "toss" granules of quartz on it and let it dry.  Then you sweep off the floor, and bury the granules in more 100% solids epoxy.  So as you use the floor, it gains traction if you can understand that.  It is a thick coating, and has stayed on the floor for a few years now of hobby car work and parking daily.

A 24x30 floor was 700-800 in materials, but it seems to be a good and permanent solution to the garage floor coating question you asked about.

[jaybee]

I sealed mine.  It helps keep down the staining and dust quite a bit and doesn't show chipping and wear but I wish it was a lighter color to reflect light.

[Carnut]

I sealed my attached garage floor 25yrs ago when I bought the house.

Did the acid thing and then rolled out the paint.

Didn't put down anything for traction, so it has been slick, but not unmanageably so.

It has lasted 25yrs and I haven't done anyything in particular to take care of it.

I used something sold by Sears at the time.

[parklane]

As far as being slippery, you can get a product that you put in your paint, called 'tiger grip', and works very well. We stained a customers pool deck (concrete) a few years ago, and when the kids got on there with wet feet, it was like glare ice. We put another coat on with this additive, and difference was unbelievable.

[river1]

i used http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/garage+flooring/gray+floor+paint%2C+1+gallon.do 16 years ago.  i have helped 7 other people paint their floor with it and all are happy with it. while i don't abuse my floor i don't shy away from using it either. when i mop it about once a year it still looks like new. living in snow country you'd have to mop more often but it's an easy mop.

here is a pic from a few years ago after a mopping



later jim

[taxpyer]

Thanks for the information on the paint guys.  I'm just about finished my shop 30x60 and floor paint is soon to be done.
Thanks again,,,, will post some pics if interested. Please ignor date on pics

[Bruce Dorsi]

Hi, Walt!  ....We hope you & your family are doing well.

I have painted a few garage floors, and have never been told to mechanically scarify the existing floor.  .....Usually, an acid etch using muriatic acid is sufficient. ......How coarse will the scarifying be?

Degreasing any existing oil spots before painting is a good idea.

To aid traction, fine sand can be sprinkled in while the paint is wet, but I don't like that method.  .....Glass beads (they're clear, so will not show)   sprinkled on will give you some grip, but are not as coarse.  

I don't know what color you are planning.  .....I have found that lighter colors (beige, tan, lt. gray, etc) aid light reflection.  .....It is also easier to find dropped objects (small screws, nuts, etc) on lighter colors.

If your garage floor has any pitch, it should drain and not have any puddles.  ......We have never had any problem with garage floors being slippery, even without sand or glass beads in the paint.  ....Of course, if you try to stop your car from 40mph on a wet floor, you may have a problem!

If your floor doesn't have enough pitch, it is possible to grind a small, shallow depression (trough)  in the concrete to aid drainage.   .....Obviously, you'll want to do this before painting!

Are you still competing?

[Uncle Bob]

I did my garage addition about 8 years ago so it was "new", cured concrete which made cleanup easier.  I used the Rustoleum kit that can be bought at most hardware stores, including the big boxes.  Because it's at the low end of floor coatings price wise I suspect a lot of people have doubts, but I've bee very happy with it.  While it's not in high traffic, it has endured hot slag, automotive paint, solvents of several varieties, dirt, grease, oil, jack stands, iron wheels, blah blah blah, the usual car hobbyist stuff.  The worst that has happened is a dull spot where I cleaned up some dried paint with solvent.  It comes with some plastic flakes you sprinkle on top while still wet that helps a little with traction, but the sprinkled sand might do more in that area.  The instructions seemed a little vague to me on prep as I'd heard about acid etching when I was researching what to use, but no mention in their instructions.  Called their tech line, which was very responsive, and they said it wasn't necessary if I used the pre-cleaning product that came in the kit.  Again, it's stayed down very well.  Color choices are limited, last I looked light grey or tan, but as mentioned light colors help reflect light, and don't hide dropped hardware as easily.

[48builder]

Thanks for all the info, guys. The guy at the local PPG supplier said my floor should feel like 80-grit before I paint it for proper adhesion.  Doesn't sound like any of you have had a problem in that area. I called Valspar about their product and they discouraged grinding the floor. hey sell something called bond-lok whichk I assume is similar to muriatic acid. They said that's all I need to do. I just want it to look good and last. I don't plan on using any of the flakes that come in most kits. I think that will make it really hard to find dropped screws, etc.

I'll let you know what I decide.

[Glen]

I used grey epoxy on the house garage and I regret it.....it is like a clean wall and once I start working or parking daily driven cars in the house garage it looks very dirty.

On the shop floor I bought a clear coat that is working very well, the supply house actually did their parking lot to prove that it is durable and you can imagine what the commercial trucks and az sun do to it.

[2rods]

Glen what product did you use on the shop floor?

[Crosley.In.AZ]

On my shop floor I used ol Thompson sealer in the 5 gallon bucket.  I used a mop to spread it around.

It works well,  but solvents like carb spray and brake clean spray-can stuff will loosen the coating up

[Glen]

Glen what product did you use on the shop floor?

Here you go.

http://www.cohills.com/documents/HSSEALER.pdf

[FRANKIE47]

Try the garage journal, all kinds of info there.